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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

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CIHIVI/ICIVIH 
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n 


n 


D 


n 


D 


n 


Coloured  covers/ 
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10X  14X  18X  22X 


26X 


30X 


y 

12X 

16X 

20X 

24X 

28X 

32X 

i 

plaire 
es  details 
liques  du 
int  modifier 
txiger  une 
de  filmage 


9d/ 
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itcire 


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et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Les  dicgrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  m6thode. 


d  by  errata 
imed  to 

ment 

,  une  peiure, 

i  fapon  d 

le. 


1 

2 

3 

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2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

i 


-  ■■    -  -"    '  '---■■■^  rtt\-v-  itm  ri  i'f"i''M 


.jmmmatm 


T  HE 


FALLS  OF  NIAGARA, 


OR 


TOVRI^T'IS    GUIDE 


TO   THIS 


WONDER  OF  NATURE, 


INCLUDING   NOTICES   OF   THE 


WHIRLPOOL,  ISLANDS,  &c. 


AND   A   COMPLETE 


GUIDE  THRO'  THE  CAN  AD  AS. 


EMBELLISHED  WITH  ENGRAVINGS. 


BY  S.  DE  VEAUX. 


BUFFALO ; 
WILLIAM    B.    HAYDEN 


Press  of  Thomas  Sf  Co. 

1839. 


Entered  according  to  the  act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1839,  by 

S.  DE  VEAUX, 

in  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  Northern 
District  of  the  State  of  New- York. 


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TO    THE    PUBLIC. 


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The  author's  views  have  been  principally  directed  to 
Niagara  Falls  ;  yet,  at  the  same  time,  as  fitting  for  such 
a  publication,  he  has  thought  proper  to  take  in  other 
matters,  seemingly,  iVom  their  contiguity,  alike  interest- 


ing. 


The  books  that  have  been  published  as  Guides  to  the 
Falls,  are  quite  competent  for  the  object  they  have  in 
view  ;  and  every  visiter  who  desires  to  know  all  about 
them,  by  a  little  expense  in  purchasing  such  publications, 
will  add  much  to  his  stock  of  information. 

This  book  is  not  calculated  to  come  in  competition 
with  those,  or  any  other  publication  ;  though  it  is,  in- 
deed, a  Guide  to  the  Falls,  in  a  new  form. 

The  subject  is  made  very  familiar,  and  every  inquiry 
is  answered  that  is  usually  made  by  strangers.  It  is  in- 
tended to  amuse  as  well  as  to  inform  ;  to  treat  of  some 
subjects  not  touched  upon  by  previous  publishers  ;  to 
preserve  from  oblivion  the  names  of  some  individuals  of 
notoriety  ;  and  to  furnish  some  incidents  of  border  war- 
fare, and  descriptions  peculiar  to  this  country. 

In  doing  this,  the  author  thinks  that  his  smaP  pub- 
lication will  form  an  agreeable  present  from  those  who 
visit  the  Falls,  to  their  friends  and  children  at  home, 
when  they  return  refreshed  from  their  pleasant  and  amu- 
sing tour. 


i 


IV 


It  may  be  here  observed,  that  it  is  thouglit,  by  sonic, 
that  the  terms  in  which  the  Falls  are  spoken  of  and  usu- 
ally described,  are  too  high  and  exaggerated.  If  the 
English  and  Scotch  poets  are  any  criterion  for  descrip- 
tive expressions,  (and  that  they  are  the  true  standard,  all 
will  allow,)  so  far  then  from  being  exaggerated,  the 
terms  applied  to  the  Fails  are  but  tame  and  feeble. 
Several  of  the  authors  alluded  to,  have  afforded  poetical 
descriptions  of  waterlulls  in  the  United  Kingdom,  in 
which  all  the  epithets  of  bea.ity  and  grandeur  have  been 
exhausted  in  the  labored  delineation  :  descriptions  so  lofty 
as  to  leave  nothing  to  add,  even  when  applied  to  the 
Falls  of  iViagara.  Look  at  the  objects  as  nature  presents 
them  :  a  brook  or  mill-race,  to  a  migh'y  river  —  a  pond, 
to  an  oceon.  Indeed  there  is  no  term  of  our  language 
too  high,  or  idea  of  imagination  too  comprehensive  for 
this  profound  and  impresb.'ve  scene.  The  mind,  awe 
struck,  is  overwhelmed  and  lost  amid  the  elemental  strife. 
And  it  is  not  only  so  as  regards  the  Falls,  but  the  whole 
of  that  portion  of  the- Niagara  river,  from  the  commence- 
ment of  the.  rapids  below  Navy  Island,  to  the  eddying 
and  heavy  current  at  Lewiston,  is,  without  doubt,  one 
of  the  most  wonderful  and  prodigious  of  all  the  works  of 
nature,  and  affords  scenes,  with  but  few  exceptions,  more 
sublime  and  terrible  than  is  exhibited  in  any  other  land. 


Niagara  Falls  nilage, 
Jum,  1839, 


THE  AUTHOR. 


.  f^'m-iai1lftiitmst't,^it-^<i,1tfif'-t^^-'  - 


^mr^  """^rs!"?^*'^ . 


TEIE    ARRANGEMENT. 


The  colloquial  form  has,  in  some  places  been  adopted 
in  this  work,  in  aflbrdin^  directions  and  information  to 
travellers.  The  observations  of  the  guide,  and  the  re- 
marks of  the  visiters,  have  been  in  some  places  tran- 
scribed. In  this  manner,  the  information  which  has 
been  garnered  up  for  years,  is  imparted  to  strangers  in 
its  appropriate  place. 

The  sketches  are  made  in  a  tour  round  the  Falls,  and 
vicinity  ;  and  is  divided  into  four  Jaunts. 

The  First  Jaunt  is  to  the  Falls  on  the  east  side  of  the 
river,  or,  as  they  are  commonly  called,  the  American 
Falls.  It  may  be  made,  from  the  Hotels,  in  half  an  hour  ; 
but  the  feelings  of  those  who  go,  will  determine  the  pe- 
riod of  their  stay.  Some  have  thought  half  a  day  a  short 
time  to  spend  in  viewing  the  cataract  from  that  position, 
and  the  other  objects  to  which  their  attention  is  drawn. 

The  Second  Jaunt  is  to  the  Islands.  Bath,  Iris  or 
Goat,  and  the  other  little  adjoining  Islands  that  are  ac- 
cessible. It  may  be  made  in  two  hours.  Many  perrr.  is 
Bpend  a  day,  and  repeat  the  visit  frequently  ;  asserting, 
that  the  interest  excited  increases  the  oftener  the  scene  is- 
beheld. 

The  Third  Jaunt  is  to  the  Whirlpool.  It  requires 
three  hours  ;  and,  if  extended  to  the  Devil's  Hole,  In- 
dian Village,  and  old  Fort  Niagara,  a  day  or  more  will 
be  pleasantly  spent  in  the  excursion. 

The  Fourth  Jaunt  is  to  Canada.  This,  like  the  visii 
to  the  Falls,  may  be  accomplished  in  less  than  an  hour  ; 
bu,t  it  would  be  superficial.     Very  few.  are  satisfied  with? 


vi 


ir  I 


such  a  slight  peep  into  her  Majesty's  dominions.  They 
hke  to  visit  Tabic  Rocl^,  and  take  a  look  below,  through 
the  mist,  and  under  the  water. 

In  speaking  of  the  time  to  bo  consumed  in  looking  at 
and  around  the  greatest  cataract  in  the  world,  reference 
is  had  to  those  who  travel  with  rail-road  speed,  and  such 
are  travellers  in  general,  in  these  days  ;  and  not  to  those 
who  have  leisure.  To  such  as  have  time  and  opportu- 
nity, no  period  can  be  fixed  :  all  depends  on  their  own 
impressions.  If  they  are  unexcited  and  uninterested, 
their  stay  will  be  short  :  they  will  cast  a  dull  and  unim- 
passioned  look  over  the  scene,  and  hurry  away.  Others 
who  have  felt  diflcrcntly,  have  remained  weeks  and 
months  at  the  Falls,  still  extolling  them,  and  spending 
their  time  much  to  their  satisfaction. 


7 


It 
je 
h 
le 


CONTENTS. 


page 

Jaunt  to  the  Falls.— The  tr.ivoUcru 17 

Generjil  remarks  oftruvellcia     19 

Description  of  the  Falls    20 

Point  View 23 

In(iuiries  iinswcrrd 24 

Niinies  .-ukI  initialhi  on  the  rocks  Jiiid  tvocs    27 

Optic'il  ilinsions 28 

Francis  Abholt,  the  heriuit 30 

Alexander's  leap 37 

Fish  and  angling 39 

HuntitiiK  ^'rounds  and  jQ[ame 40 

Indian  Ladder.    Village  of  Niagara  Falls 43 

Jaunt  to  thk  Islands 47 

The  Bridge  to  the  Island 54 

Improvements  on  Iris  Island 55 

Bath  Island 57 

Daring  enterprise 58 

Tlie  hog's  buck     60 

Prospect  Island.    Ingraham's  Cave ,61 

Biddle  Staircase 03 

Horse  Shoe  Falls    64 

Prospect  Tower 65 

Impressions  of  visiters 66 

Winter  scenery 67 

Shrubs  and  Plants 69 

Vessels  sent  over  the  Falls 70 

Moss  Island 71 

Navy  Island 73 

The  Lovi^  family 74 

W^illiam  Chambers 75 

Expedition  to  Navy  Island 77 

Steam-boat  Caroline 78 

Owanunga,  or  Grand  Island 80 

Buck-horn  Island    81 

Jaunt  to  the  Whirlpool 83 

Old  portage  road 86 

Gad  Pierce,  Esq 87 

Mineral  springs 89 

The  Whirlpool 90 

The  Prospect    94 

The  Outlet 95 

The  Maelstrom,  of  Norway    , 99 


r 


viu 


Jaunt  to  the  Wiiirm'Ool.  pngo 

Denjuiiiin  Ituthlxin ».••« • •«..  .100 

Buttle  of  the  Devil's  Hole 107 

Tuscaroni  Iiuiitins 110 

Little  Chief lU 

Indian  ailvcnture     1 12 

Escape  from  Indians 114 

LcvviHton.    Five  mile  Meadow 117 

Fort  Niuifura UB 

William  Morgan 121 

John  Carroll 122 

Jaunt  to  Canada •  •  .  • «  .  125 

View  I'rom  the  Stairs 120 

Perilciis  descent  of  the  ladder     130 

Catlin's  Cave 133 

Village  of  Clifton 133 

Tahic  Hock 130 

Passing  under  the  sheet  of  water 137 

Going  over  the  Falls 140 

Canal  hoat  incident 141 

Samuel  Street.    Col.  Clark 144 

City  of  the  Falls  '. 140 

Drummondvil  e 147 

Hrock's  3Tonument 148 

Town  of  Niagara 150 

Battle  of  Fort  George 151 

Betty  Feathers 152 

Tour  TimoutJii  Canad.^.    Rontes  from  Niagara  Falls 153 

1VIiscellanf:ous  Notices.    Medicinal  virtues  of  the  air  101 

Geology  of  Niagara  Falls.    Mineral  specimens 162 

Tonawanda  Village.    John  Downing  and  the  Whirlpool  .  .163 

Death  of  Dr.  Hungerford 164 

Chronological  Tahle  of  Events  at  Niagara  F'alls 166 

Tuhles  of  distances 167 

Advertisements 168 


pngo 
..100 
..107 
.  .  110 

.111 
.  AVi 
,  .114 
.  .117 
.  .118 
.  .  121 
.  .122 
.  .  125 
.  .129 
..130 
..133 
..135 
..130 
..137 
.  .140 
..141 
..144 
..140 
..147 

.148 
.  .150 
..151 
.  .152 
.  .155 
.  .101 
.  .162 
.  .163 
..164 
..166 
.  .167 
.  .108 


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FALLS  OF  NIAGARA, 


ON    THE 


AMERICAN    SIDE. 


THE     TRAVELLERS. 


A  party  from  a  distant  City  are  on  a  tour  of  pleasure 
to  the  Falls.  There  are  three  principal  routes  on  the 
American  side  that  lead  to  this  celebrated  place. 

One  from  the  upper  lakes,  the  soi^th.  and  the  east, 
through  the  City  of  Buffalo,  from  thence  by  Rail  Road  to 
the  place  of  destination  : 

One  from  Canada,  and  the  lower  lakes,  via  Lewiston, 
and  from  thence,  also,  by  Rail  Road : 

The  third,  from  the  east,  by  the  Erie  Canal,  Rail  Roads, 
Stages,  and  Steam  Boats,  to  the  City  of  Rochester,  and 
through  the  village  of  Lockport,  and  from  thence  by 
Ruil  R  .;(*  to  the  Falls. 

The  travellers  that  are  the  Dramatis  Persona  of  this 
taunt,  are  seated  in  the  Lockport  and  Niagara  Falls  rail 
road  cars.  They  have  arrived  within  two  miles  of  the 
object  of  their  visit,  and  the  exclamation  is  heard — *Uhe 
Fails!  the  Falls!"  An  imposir.ig  scene  has,  indeed, 
broke  upon  them,  and  a  general  move  takes  place  to  catch 
a  glimpse  of  the  mighty  cataract.  Those  seated  at  the 
right  side  of  the  cars  have  a  full  and  direct  view  in  front, 

2 


18 


JAUNT   TO   THE   FALLS. 


It 


First  sight. 


and  of  the  Niagara  river,  which,  by  their  side,  flows  far 
beneath.  On  the  very  verge  of  its  banks,  at  a  dizzy 
height,  they  are  whirling  at  the  rapid  rate  of  eighteen  miles 
an  hour.  On  looking  below,  some  passengers  hold  their 
breath  in  amazement ;  others  have  been  known  to  express 
their  astonishmenl  by  a  low  protracted  whistle,  until  the 
supposed  danger  was  past. 

On  looking  at  the  object  before  her,  one  of  the  ladies 
exclaims — "is  that  the  Falls?"  ''Yes,"  replies  a  pas- 
senger, ''  and  look  below,  there  is  the  far  famed  Niagara 
rive|." 

Another  observes — ''after  so  long  a  period  I  behold 
this  place;"  and  one — "  what  a  distance  have  we  come 
to  feast  our  eyes  upon  this  scene!" 

"  Great  mist  arises  from  the  water  —  the  Falls  seem 
concealed  behind  a  cloud.     Is  it  always  so?" 

"Always,"  answered  a  person  familar  with  the  scene, 
"and  in  the  clear  cold  weather  of  winter,  the  mist  which 
arises  in  clouds,  appears  like  the  flame  and  smoke  of  some 
great  conflagration,  or  as  of  a  burning  city.  At  such 
times  the  burning  of  Moscow  is  always  brought  to  my 
remembrance." 

In  a  few  minutes  after  the  Falls  are  first  beheld,  at  the 
Mineral  spring,  two  miles  from  the  cataract,  the  cars  have 
rolled  on;  have  passed  through  the  main  street  of  the 
Village,  and  have  slopped  at  the  upper  end. 

The  cars  of  the  passengers  are  saluted  with — "passen- 
gers for  the  Cataract,"  "travellers  for  the  Eagle," 
"gentlemen  please  to  show  me  your  baggage  for  the 


Cataract,"  "Eagle  baggage,"  "for  the  Cataract,  Ma- 
dam?" "do  you  go  to  the  Eagle,  Sir?"  and  all  the  jar- 
gon which  a  full  array  of  the  runners  and  waiters  from 
two  of  the  best  Houses  in  the  country  can  utter  forth. 


M 


JAUNT    TO    THE    FALLS. 


19 


General  reiimrks  of  traveller)?'. 


The  travellers  having  made  up  their  minds  before  their 
arrival,  or  afterwards,  go  to  one  or  the  other  of  the  hotels, 
enter  their  names,  secure  their  rooms,  and  breakfast,  dipo 
or  sup,  as  the  case  may  be,  and  when  prepared  for  a  visit 
to  the  Falls,  send  for  the  Guide. 

The  aid  of  a  guide  is  indispensible,  to  point  out  the  dif- 
ferent views  and  to  impart  a  full  knowledge  of  all  the 
localities. 

After  having  concluded  their  arrangements  they  start 
on  their  first  ramble.  Passing  in  a  western  direction  from 
the  hotel,  they  traverse  the  bank  of  the  river,  or  after 
leaving  a  narrow  street,  continue  along  on  the  rising 
ground,  until  they  enter  a  grove  of  trees;  emerging  from 
thence,  they  behold  the  1  "alls  at  once  before  them,  rolling 
majestically,  and  displaying  all  their  grandeur. 

*^  How  magnificent!" 

* '  Truly,  the  half  has  not  been  told! ' ' 

*'  It  is  grand — it  is  dreadful!" 

*'  They  are  terrible,  yet  beautiful !" 

*'  They  appear  small  at  a  distance,  and,  at  first  sight,  I 
was  disappointed.     They  exceed  my  expectations." 

''  Never  have  I  beheld,  or  imagined,  any  thing  compar- 
able to  this." 

Such  are  some  of  the  many  expressions  which  breate 
from  travellers,  and  show  forth  their  emotions;  they  are 
generally  those  of  admiration,  mingled  with  pleasure ; 
but  many  gaze  and  wonder  in  silence. 


4 


15  i: 


20 


JAUNT   TO   THE    FALLS. 


Description. 


THE     FALLS     OF    NIAGARA. 

•'Tremendous  torrent!  for  an  instant  husli 
The  terrors  of  thy  voice,  and  cast  aside 
Tho;je  wild  involving  sliadows;  tliat  my  eyes 
May  see  the  fearful  beauty  of  thy  face." 

On  the  western  boundary  of  the  State  of  New- York, 
runs  the  Niagara  river,  in  a  northern  direction,  and  the 
centre  of  which  is  the  boundary  line  between  the  United 
States  and  the  dominions  of  Great  Britain.  The  Niagara 
is  the  outlet  of  the  vast  chain  of  western  lakes,  beginning 
with  lake  Superior  and  its  hundred  tributary  streams, 
and  is  the  principal  inlet  of  lake  Ontario.  Niagara  is  de- 
rived from  the  Indian,  and  was  called  by  them  Onyaharra 
according  to  David  Cusich,  of  the  Tuscarora  tribe,  who 
published  a  pamphlet  in  1827. 

The  Falls  are  twenty-two  miles  from  lake  Erie,  and 
fourteen  from  lake  Ontario.  The  two  branches  of  the 
river  which  encompass  Grand  and  other  Islands,  unite  a 
mile  above  the  rapids;  and  it  is,  there,  two  miles  in  width. 
As  it  advances  forward  the  current  accelerates  in  its  down- 
ward course,  and  the  channel  contracts  in  width.  From 
tranquil  and  glossy,  a  slight  ripple  is  seen  to  move  the 
surface;  it  next  assumes  a  descending  and  cradle  like 
movement ;  the  waves  enlarge,  the  tops  roll  over  each 
other,  and  are  broken  into  white-caps  and  spray.  The 
whole  body  of  the  mighty  river  becomes  agitated,  ais  if 
conscious  of  the  great  plunge  it  is  about  to  make.  The 
placid  stream  has  become  a  rushing  torrent,  broken  into 
cascades  and  sweeping  billows.  Its  own  momentum 
presses  it  forward  with  irresistible  violence  ;  from  ridge  to 
ridge  it  bounds,  until  it  reaches  the  perpendicular  rock, 


JAUNT   TO   THE    FALLS. 


21 


Volume  of  water. 


4 

\ 


and  there  it  sweeps  over,  and  falls  below.  The  water 
boils  up  from  beneath,  like  a  sea  of  white  foam  ;  the  spray 
rises  in  clouds  which  hang  dark  and  heavy  above,  or  are 
wafted  away  by  the  current  of  the  wind  ;  and  rainbows 
encircle  beiow  and  above  this  most  wonderful  of  nature's 
works. 

Iris  island  is  in  the  midst  of  the  Falls,  and  separates 
the  water  into  two  great  sheets.  A  smaller  sheet  is  struck 
off  by  Prospect  island,  passing  between  that  and  Iris 
island.  The  portion  between  the  islands  and  American 
shore  is  less  than  the  main  channel  which  separates 
Canada  from  the  United  States,  and  passes  on  the  western 
side  of  Iris  island.  In  that  channel  is  borne  along  a 
volume  of  water  of  immense  magnitude,  the  drain  of 
more  than  150,000  square  miles  of  surface  of  lakes  and 
rivers. 

How  sublime  the  object  that  is  presented  to  the  enrap- 
tured beholder  !  Such  a  body  of  congregated  water  poured 
at  once  over  so  high  a  precipice,  and  falling  perpendicu- 
larly into  the  chasm  below,  whose  depth  it  is  not  possible 
for  man  to  fathom. 

The  rushing,  roaring  sound  which  is  emited  by  the 
falling  water  —  the  variety  of  colors  presented  to  the 
eye  —  the  splendor  yet  sublimity  of  the  scene  —  are  new 
to  the  spectator,  and  create  emotions  hard  to  be  described. 

The  sounds  are  those  of  the  stormy  ocean  and  over- 
whelming tempest,  there  is  one  continued  roar,  yet  other 
sounds  arise  fitful  and  varied. 

Some  persons,  at  times,  have  fancied  noises,  strange 
and  mysterious;  the  intonations  of  the  base  drum  —  the 
slow,  solemn  and  heavy  report  of  artillery  —  the  swelling 
note  of  the  trumpet  —  and  even  the  human  voice  in 
agony,  hns  been  heard  by  many  imaginative  enthusiasts. 


f<     t 


f   ; 


22 


JAUNT   TO   THE    FALLS. 


Familiarity  vviihthe  noise. 


But  the  similarity  of  the  sounds  to  the  base  drum,  and  to 
artillery  are  so  i.ear,  at  times,  that  persons  have  been 
repeatedly  deceived. 

It  requires  a  long  residence  lo  become  familar  to,  and 
regardless  of  the  noise.  To  some  it  creates  unpleasant 
sensations,  but  generally  they  ^re  those  of  a  contrary 
character.  To  those  who  are  residents,  the  quietude 
which  seems  to  prevail  when  they  visit  any  of  the  adjacent 
villages,  makes  it  appear  to  them  like  the  stillness  of 
Sunday. 

Strangers  who  remain  over  night,  though  the  sound  of 
the  Falls  is  in  their  ears  when  they  retire  to  rest,  yet 
when  they  happen  to  awake  from  their  slumbers,  fre- 
quently fancy  themselves  in  the  midst  of  a  tempest;  the 
the  house  trembles,  the  windows  and  doors  clatter,  the 
wind  rushes  and  whistles  round,  the  rain  pours;  and 
amid  all,  they  hear  the  unceaHing  sound  of  the  cataract. 
They  rise  to  look  out  upc:^  the  raging  storm;  and  when 
they  draw  the  curtain,  or  throw  up  the  windows,  they 
perceive  that  the  stars  are  shining  sweetly,  and  not  a 
zephyr  disturbs  the  pendant  leaves. 

In  heavy  weather  the  sound  is  louder,  and  is  heard 
farther;  and  to  those  who  live  at  a  distance,  though 
within  hearing  of  the  Falls,  they  are  an  unfailing  baro- 
meter. After  a  pleasant  turn  of  weather,  during  which 
the  sound  has  but  just  been  perceptable,  often  gradually, 
and  sometimes  suddenly,  the  increased  roar  of  the  cataract ' 
comes  upon  the  ear.  A  change  of  weather  immediately 
takes  place,  and  is  often  followed  by  a  storm. 

In  some  directions  the  roar  of  the  Falls  is  not  usually 
heard  over  six  or  seven  miles;  along  the  course  of  the 
river  they  are  constantly  perceptable  for  about  fourteen 
miles;  they  have  been  occasionally  heard  at  the  distance 


JAUNT   TO   THE    FALLS. 


23 


Point  View. 


I 


oT  thirty  miles;  and  in  one  instance  an  individual  asserts 
lo  have  heard  them  at  the  city  of  Toronto,  in  Canada, 
di-^tnnce  foriy-four  miles. 

Tiie  concussion  of  the  falling  waters  jar  the  adjoining 
shores,  and  the  houses  tremble  in  concert  with  the 
unceasing  shock. 

This  may  be  questioned  by  those  who  have  only  spent 
an  hour  or  two  at  the  Falls,  in  the  clear,  serene,  and  bland 
weather  of  summer;  but  those  who  have  remained  there 
longer  will  certify  to  the  fact.  If  a  door  is  left  ajar  it 
vibrates,  if  a  window  is  loose  it  clatters;  and  even  sitting 
quietly  at  their  fire  sides,  the  inhabitants  will,  at  times, 
perceive  a  tremendous  emotion,  which  they  can  trace  to 
the  Falls.  Such,  are  the  sounds;  the  objects  presented  to 
the  eye  are  still  more  varied. 

Point  View,  on  the  American  side,  not  a  iieio  posi- 
tion, as  the  clear  surface  of  the  bank  and  well  trod  foot 
path  will  show,  but  one  hardly  mentioned  by  any  who 
have  written  on  this  subject,  was  the  spot  from  which 
V  anderlyn  sketched  one  of  his  great  paintings  of  the 
Falls.  For  a  distant  prospect  it  is  unequalled,  and  more 
extended  than  any  other.  Here,  the  Falls  and  the  river 
below  can  be  seen  most  advantageously,  at  one  view;  at 
Other  points  the  objects  of  interest  must  be  viewed  more 
in  detail.  It  is  much  the  same  on  the  Canada  shore,  go 
where  you  will  and  you  have  one  grand  and  comprehen- 
sive view  of  the  descending  waters. 

On  the  projecting  rock  at  Point  View,  the  spectator 
stands  and  beholds  the  unrivalled  prospect  which  is  spread 
before  him.  Two  hundred  feet  below  the  rock  from 
which  he  looks,  lies,  silvered  over  and  calm,  the  waters 
of  the  Niagara,  bounded  on  either  side  with  rock  and  pre- 
cipice; the  adjoining  shores  crowned  with  nadvq  forest 


i 


24 


JAUNT   TO   THE    PALLS. 


Distant  prospcL't. 


trees,  and  in  the  distance  green  meadows,  blooniinj^ 
orchards,  and  rising  villages.  He  looks  at  the  great 
object  of  his  gaze,  with  sensations  of  reverence;  the 
white  sheets  hanging  in  mid  air;  the  waters  foaniin'jr, 
and  hurrying  from  beneath  those  that  impend  above  ;  thy 
spray  rushing  up  from  the  deep  cavern,  and  rising  in 
clouds,  which  hang  as  a  pillar  of  smoke  over  this  sublime 
sanctuary  of  nature's  mysteries.  The  rocky  base  of  Iris 
island,  dividing  the  Falls,  with  its  tall  :rees  towering 
above  the  water;  the  Terrapin  rocks  on  the  American 
side,  and  Table  Rock,  in  Canada: — altogether  the  scent' 
isij  beyond  conception,  unique  and  imposing. 


INQUIRIES      ANSV/ERFB, 

"Trifles,  on  «in  interesting  subject, 
Cease  to  be  trifles." 

As  many  inquiries  are  made  as  to  places,  heights,  dis- 
tances, and  on  a  variety  of  other  subjects,  the  following 
paragraphs  are  intended  as  answers  to  such,  and  afford 
in  the  shortest  practicable  way,  the  inf;.vmation  required. 

The  form  of  the  Falls  is  a  curve.  That  part  between 
Iris  island  and  Canada  is  called  the  Horse  Shoe  Falls. 

The  western  or  Horse  Shoe  Fall  is  about  seven  hun- 
dred yards  in  circumference. 

The  Fall  on  the  northern  side  of  the  island  is  three 
hundred  and  thirty  yards. 

The  centre  Fall,  between  Iris  and  Prospect  islands,  is 
about  thirty  three  yards. 

The  whole  distance  around  the  curve,  including  Iris 
and  Prospect  islands,  is  computed  at  one  thousand  four 
hundred  yards. 


JAUNT   TO   THE    FALLS. 


25 


Inquiries  answered. 


The  height  of  the  Falls,  on  the  American  sule,  is  one 
hundred  and  sixty-four  feet;  on  the  Canada  side,  one 
hundred  and  fifty-eight  feet. 

From  Chippewa  to  Schlosser  the  river  is  the  widest. 
The  descent  from  those  places  to  the  great  pitch  is  esti- 
mated at  ninety  feet. 

At  the  ferry  below  the  Falls  the  river  is  fifty-six  rods 
wide.  It  has  been  crossed  in  five  minutes;  it  ordinarily 
requires  ten. 

The  cloud  of  spray  which  arises  from  the  Falls,  is 
always  seen,  except  when  scattered  by  the  wind.  It  is 
sometimes  seen  from  a  great  distance,  even  from  that  of 
one  hundred  miles. 

Computations  have  been  made  of  the  quantity  of  water 
that  passes  over  the  Falls.  One  is  that  5,084,089,280 
bai'rels  descend  in  twenty-four  hours;  211,830,853,  in 
one  hour;  3,530,614,  in  a  minute;  and  58,843,  in  a 
second.  This  statement  is  undoubtedly  within  bounds; 
and  the  quantity  is  probably  considerably  more. 

The  average  height  of  the  banks  about  the  Falls  is  from 
two  hundred  to  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet. 

You  can  go,  for  a  short  distance  from  Iris  islarid, 
under  the  spray  of  the  Horse  Shoe  Falls;  some  have 
called  in  going  under  the  Horse  Shoe  Falls,  but  that  is 
saying  too  much. 

The  principal  spot  visited,  for  going  under  the  sheet 
of  water,  is  at  T?ble  Rock.  Even  there,  it  is  fashionable 
to  speak  of  the  distance  advanced,  in  exaggerated  terms. 

Great  differences  of  opinion  exist  as  to  the  best  view 
of  this  scene  of  many  wonders.  One  says,  "the  best 
view  of  the  Falls  is  from  Table  Rock."  Another,  "  the 
best  view  to  be  had  is  from  the  centre  of  the  river,  in 
crossing."     A  third,    'Uhe  prospect  is  the  best  from 


20 


JAUiNT   TO   THE    FALLS. 


Inquiries  answered. 


Point  View."  A  fourth,  **the  best  view  is  from  the 
foot  of  the  stair  case,  on  the  American  side."  A  fifth, 
"  the  grandest  views  of  all  are  from  the  point  of  Iris  island 
where  it  overlooks  tl^e  Horse  Shoe  Falls,  and  from  the 
Tower  at  the  Terrapin  Rocks." 

After  all,  it  must  be  conceded  that  the  view  of  the 
Falls  in  Canada,  surpass  any  on  the  American  side.  On 
this  side  there  are  many  different  views  ;  your  eye  passes 
over  the  various  prospects,  piece  by  piece;  on  the  Canada 
side  you  have  a  full  front  view.  On  the  American  side, 
comi)aring  large  things  with  small,  you  not  only  occupy 
the  sU'ige  box,  but  go  behind  the  scenes. 

Persons  who  visit  the  Falls,  to  form  a  right  conception 
of  the  wonders  of  this  country  should  pass  over  to  Iris 
island,  should  visit  the  "Whirlpool,  and  great  rapids 
along  the  river,  and  should  cross  into  Canada. 

From  the  rapidity  of  the  water  below  the  Falls  it  has 
been  difficult  to  fathom  it,  but  as  nearly  as  has  been 
ascertained,  it  is  two  hundred  and  forty  feet  deep. 

The  ferrymen  convey  baggage  safely  from  one  side  of 
the  river  to  the  other,  for  a  fair  compensation.  The 
descending  and  pscending  the  hills  is  a  laborious  task, 
and  they  earn  their  money. 

The  number  of  visiters  increase  yearly.  In  1838,  from 
the  best  authority,  the  number  exceeded  twenty  thousand. 


! 


JAUNT   TO   THE    FALLS. 


27 


Nniiics  and  Initials. 


t 


NAMES    AND    INITIALS    ON     THE    ROCKS 

AND     TREES. 

"BiiHy  memory  seeks, 
E'cti  in  the  woody  gliulc,  for  some  dear  mark 
Of  ilioHe  we  love." 

There  nre  observed  mnny  names  and  initials  chiselled 
upon  the  rocks,  and  cut  upon  the  trees.  Some  hii^h  in 
the  branches,  and  some  projecting  over  the  precipice. 
At  the  first  thought  one  supposes  that  the  short  lived 
immortality  thus  to  be  obtained  is  hardly  worth  the  labor 
and  risk. 

It  is  not  so  much  the  expectation  of  fixing  a  lasting 
memorial,  as  the  pleasure  ot'having  one's  name  recognised 
by  some  friend,  or  acquaintance,  in  present  or  after  years. 
These  mementos  are  like  the  registry  of  a  public  house, 
but  possess  a  romantic  interest  that  registers  do  not. 
Here  on  the  dark  rocks  and  wild  forest  trees  of  Niagara, 
mingled  with  names  from  every  part  of  the  world,  will 
sometimes  be  found  one  dear  to  the  heart  of  the  observer, 
and  the  object  will  be  hailed  with  pleasure.  It  may  have 
been  indented  years  ago,  and  he  who  made  the  memorial, 
may,  when  the  name  is  recognised,  have  ceased  to  exist 
among  the  living ;  and  then  may  be  brought  to  mind 
**  scenes  long  passed,  never  to  return."  More  than  once, 
affecting  recognisances  of  this  nature  have  been  witnessed. 
Had  the  first  European  who  visited  this  spot  left  some 
memorial  of  the  time,  and  his  own  name,  he  would,  by 
that  slight  circumstance,  have  secured  an  immortality  for 
himself,  and  much  satisfaction  to  modern  inquirers. 
This  is  not  a  useless  labor  ;  it  is  interesting  to  many, 
and  will  often  afford  some  data  and  materials  for  the 
traveller  and  historian. 


28 


JAUNT  TO   THE    FALLS. 


MiHts  nn*l  Optical  IlliiRiun.s. 


ailSTS     AROUND     THE     FALLS,     AND 
OPTICAL     ILLUSIONS. 

"  Indistinct 

"  Seen  tlirougli  the  tuibid  air,  bryond  tlie  life, 
"  ObjcctH  appear. 

The  Falls,  to  residents,  have  lost  nnich  of  their  lone- 
liness, the  majesty  and  awfulness  which  they  once  pos- 
sessed. Frequently  beholdinj,'  them  has  made  the  scene 
familiar  ;  not  only  so,  but  there  are  now  so  many  of  the 
works  of  man  about  them,  houses,  stair  cases,  bridges, 
roads,  prospect  towers,  and  the  like,  that  the  wild  and 
savage  aspect  which  they  once  wore,  has  disappeared. 

When  the  ferry  was  at  first  established,  at  times  there 
Would  not  be  a  passenger  for  several  days  ;  in  conse- 
quence, it  would  be  often  neglected,  and  travellers  were 
frequently  detained,  not  only  hours,  but  days,  in  waiting 
on  the  movements  of  the  irregular  and  tardy  ferryman. 
One  who  was  thus  detained,  relates — "  I  waited  on  the 
American  bank,  and  watched  the  coming  of  the  ferry- 
man. Clouds  of  mist  would  move  down  the  river,  ob- 
scuring, except  at  intervals,  the  shores  from  each  other. 
At  such  times,  the  appearances  were  truly  deceptive.  I 
would  see  persons  coming  to  the  top  of  the  bank  ;  I  would 
observe  them  passing  down  the  hill,  emerging  at  times 
from  behind  the  rocks  rnd  bushes  ;  and  could  almost 
count  their  numbers  as  they  advanced  to  the  landing 
place.  Directly,  a  blast  of  wind  would  come,  driving 
away  the  cloud  of  mist,  and  showing  clearly  that  no  per- 
sons were  in  sight.  I  would  think  they  had  retired  be- 
hind the  rocks,  or  were  in  some  hidden  part  of  the  path 
that  ascended  the  bank,  as  it  wound  its  obscure  way  un- 
der shrubs  and  trees.     Again  the  mist  would  roll  over, 


i 


'ifiilifVic   III"" 


li 


JAUNT   TO    THE    FALLS. 


'20 


FlrHt  diHcovcry. 


and  again  the  phantoms  wouki  jippeur,  and,  like  an  ig. 
nis  fatnus,  would  lure  nie  to  remain  tilldirkncaa  and 
night  cut  oft*  all  prospect  of  the  ferryman's  coming  !  ! 

Who  first  discovered  the  Falls,  does  not  appear  to  he 
known.  They  were  visited  in  ICf)?,  and  without  doubt 
many  years  before.  This  is  the  earliest  notice  of  them 
yet  brought  to  light.  In  1678,  they  were  visited  and  de- 
scribed by  Father  Hennipcn.  The  description  is  not 
very  different  from  those  of  the  present  day.  In  calling 
the  Falls  GOO  feet  high,  it  is  likely  the  estimate  was  made 
from  the  top  of  the  bank  to  the  supj)08ed  bottom  of  the 
gulf,  or  abyss  into  which  the  waters  are  precipitated.  It 
is  not  now  certainly  known  but  that  the  estimate  in  that 
point  of  view  is  correct. 

After  having  viewed  the  Falls,  from  the  brow  of  the 
bank,  to  their  satisfaction,  the  travellers  pass  down  the 
river  for  about  ten  rods,  where  the  guide  points  out  where 
Francis  Abbott,  in  a  small  building  erected  by  himself, 
resided  for  the  last  two  months  of  his  life.  From  this 
place  he  could  look  out  upon  the  Falls,  and  regale  him- 
self with  the  sight  of  the  object  to  which  he  was  spell- 
bound and  infatuated.  This  was  not  a  favored  residence; 
but  as  he  could  not  be  permitted  to  seclude  himself  on 
the  island,  to  which  he  was  so  extremely  partial,  he  sor- 
rowfully seated  himself  here.  As  every  body  wishes  to 
hear  about  this  eccentric  gentleman,  all  the  information 
that  has  been  obtained,  is  given  in  the  following  account : 


30 


JAUNT   TO    THE    FALLS. 


Francis  Abbott. 


FRANCIS     ABBOTT. 

"  From  my  youth  upward.--, 
My  spirit  walked  not  wltli  the  souls  of  men. 
Nor  looked  upon  the  earth  with  human  eye.< ; 
The  thirst  of  their  ambition  was  not  mine, — 
The  aim  of  their  existence  was  not  mine: 
I  had  no  sympathy  with  breathing  flet^h. 
My  joy  was  in  the  wilderness,  to  lireathe 
The  difficult  air  of  the  mid  mountain's  top, 
Where  the  birds  dare  not  build,  nor  insert's  wing 
Flit  o'er  the  herbless  granite;  or  to  plunge 
Into  the  roUing  torrent,  and  to  roll  along." 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  18th  of  June,  1829,  a  tall, 
well  built  and  handsome  man,  dressed  in  a  long  loose 
gown,  or  cloak,  of  a  chocolate  color,  was  seen  passing 
through  the  principal  street  of  the  village  of  Niagara 
Falls.  He  had  under  his  arm  a  roll  of  blankets,  a  flute, 
a  port  folio,  and  a  large  book  ;  in  his  right  hand  he  car- 
ried a  small  stick.  He  advanced  towards  the  Eagle  Ho- 
tel, attracting  the  gaze  of  visitors  and  others  by  the  singu- 
larity of  his  appearance.  With  elastic  step  and  animated 
motion,  he  passed  the  hotel ;  he  heeded  not  the  inquir- 
ing gaze  of  the  idle  multitude,  but  firm  and  erect  he  bent 
his  course  to  a  more  lowly,  but  respectable  inn.  He  at 
once  entered  into  stipulations  with  the  landlord,  that  the 
room  he  occupied  should  be  solely  his  own ;  that  he 
should  have  his  table  to  himself;  and  that  only  certain 
portions  of  his  fare  should  be  furnished  by  the  landlady. 
He  made  the  usual  inquiries  about  the  Falls,  and  among 
other  things,  wished  to  know  if  there  was  a  reading 
room  or  library  in  the  village.  Being  informed  that 
there  was  a  library,  he  immediately  repaired  to  the  indi- 
vidual who  kept  it ;  deposited  three  dollars,  and  took  a 


I 


JAUiNT    TO    THE    FALLS. 


31 


His  opinion  of  the  Falls. 


" 


book  ;  purchased  a  violin  ;  borrowed  music  books  ;  in- 
formed the  librarian  that  his  name  was  Francis  Abbott  ; 
that  he  should  remain  a  few  days  at  the  F^tlls,  and  con- 
versed on  many  subjects  with  great  ease  and  ability. 

The  next  day,  he  returned  to  the  same  person  ;  expa- 
tiated largely  upon  the  surrounding  scenery,  the  cascades 
and  cataracts,  and  of  that  sublime  spectacle,  the  Falls. 
In  all  his  travels,  he  said,  he  had  never  met  with  any 
thing  to  compare  with  this  combination  of  all  that  was 
great  and  beautiful.     There  was  nothing  so  grand   as 
Niagara  Falls,  except  Mount  ^tna,  during  an  eruption. 
He  inquired  how  long  travellers  usually  remained,  and 
being  informed  that  many  stayed  only  one  day,  he  ob- 
served that  he  should  remain  at  least  a  week  ;  and  fur- 
ther remarked,   ''  Can  it  be,  that  there  are  those  who 
come  to  this  place,  and  leave  it  in  one  day  !     I  am  aston- 
ished that  persons  can   be  found  so  little  interested  in 
these  astonishing  works  of  nature,  as  to  spend  so  short  a 
period  of  time  in  passing  around  and  beholding  them. 
As  well  might  a  traveller,  in  one  or  two  days,  attempt  to 
examine  in  detail  the  various  museums  and  curiosities  of 
Paris,  as  to  think  of  becoming  acquainted  with  the  mag- 
nificent scenery  of  Niagara,    in  such  a  short  space  of 
time." 

In  a  few  days  he  called  again,  and  again  expatiated  up- 
on the  resplendent  scenery  of  the  Falls,  and  said  he  had 
concluded  to  remain  a  month,  and  perhaps  six  months. 
In  a  short  time  after,  he  determined  to  fix  his  abode  on 
Iris  Island,  and  was  desirous  of  erecting  a  rustic  hut,  for 
the  purpose  of  abstracting  himself  from  all  society,  and 
of  becoming  a  solitary  hermit.  The  proprietor  of  the 
island,  having  become  acquainted  with  his  eccentricities, 
was  apprehensive  that  his  permanent  residence  there, 


\ 


^BSfr^—rKf 


32 


JAUNT   TO   THE   FALLS. 


His  residence  —  mode  of  living. 


•  I 


• 


0 


might  be  alarming  to  strangers,  who  did  not  know  him. 
For  this  reason,  he  thought  it  not  proper  tc  allow  him  to 
erect  a  building  for  such  a  purpose,  but  permitted  him  to 
occupy  a  room  in  the  only  house  then  on  the  island.  In 
this  house  there  lived  a  family  that  furnished  him  at  times 
with  milk  and  bread.  But  he  often  dispensed  with  these 
necessary  articles,  providing  himself  in  such  other  way 
as  suited  his  fancy,  and  preparing  his  food  to  suit  his  own 
taste.  He  observed  once  to  a  friend,  "  that  people,  in 
their  mode  of  living,  took  a  great  deal  of  trouble  and  un- 
necessary pains  ;  for  my  part,  I  have  adopted  a  method 
which  I  find  very  pleasant  and  agreeable.  I  take  about  a 
pint  of  water,  in  which  I  mix  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
wheat  flour,  to  give  it  a  proper  consistence,  and  then 
drink  it  down.  I  find  that  it  answers  every  purpose,  and 
saves  me  much  labor  and  inconvenience." 

With  his  guitar  by  his  side,  supported  from  his  shoul- 
der with  a  silken  sash,  like  an  Eastern  Minstrel,  he 
would  perambulate  the  banks  of  the  river  to  the  Whirl- 
pool ;  and  once  or  twice  extended  his  walk  to  Lewiston. 
The  inmates  of  the  houses  on  the  way  would  suddenly 
hear  the  sounds  of  strange  and  unknown  music ;  the 
musician  would  be  observed  standing  at  a  distance  in  the 
road,  but  as  soon  as  noticed,  or  spoken  to,  he  would  glide 
away,  without  giving  any  reply. 

The  island  was  his  permanent  residence  for  about  20 
months.  At  length,  the  family  removed  ;  and  to  those 
few  persons  with  whom  he  held  converse,  he  expressed 
his  great  satisfaction  of  having  it  in  his  power  to  live  en- 
tirely alone.  For  some  months,  he  seemed  to  enjoy  him- 
self very  much,  and  until  another  family  entered  the 
house.  He  then  concluded  to  erect  a  cottage  of  his  own  ; 
and  as  he  could  not  build  on  the  island,  he  chose  the  high 


JAUNT    TO    THE    FALLS. 


33 


Milliner  of  his  death. 


■  1 


bank  of  the  river,  near  to  and  in  full  view  of  the  Falls  ; 
which,  of  all  other  objects,  it  was  his  delight  to  behold. 
He  occupied  his  new  residence  about  two  months. 

On  Friday,  the  10th  of  June,  1831,  he  went  twice 
below  the  bank  of  the  river,  to  bathe,  and  was  seen  to 
go  a  third  time.  At  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon, 
the  ferryman  saw  him  in  the  water  —  he  was  partly 
floating  and  partly  resting  his  body  on  the  shelving  rocks. 
As  the  boat  approached,  to  screen  himself  from  the  gaze 
of  the  passengers,  he  drew  his  head  under  the  water.  It 
was  not  seriously  thought  of,  as  he  had  often  been  noticed 
in  the  same  situation,  and  acting  in  the  same  manner. 
When  the  ferryman  returned,  his  clothes  were  seen  on 
the  rocks,  where  he  usually  deposited  them,  but  he  was 
not  there.  An  examination  was  immediately  made,  but 
his  body  could  not  be  found.  It  was  supposed  to  have 
been  carried  away  by  the  current. 

"  The  greedy  surge  had  swept  him  down,  far,  far 
From  mortal  ken." 

On  the  21st,  the  body  was  taken  up  at  Fort  Niagara; 
was  clearly  identified,  and  was  on  the  next  day  removed 
and  decently  interred  in  the  burial  ground  at  Niagara 
Falls. 

Thus  terminated  the  career  of  the  unfortunate  Francis 
Abbott  —  little,  indeed,  known  to  those  near  whom  he 
spent  the  last  two  years  of  his  life.  Some  few  gleanings 
more  can  only  be  given.  He  was  an  English  gentleman, 
of  a  respectable  family ;  he  was  endowed  with  a  good 
mind,  highly  cultivated  ;  and  was  eminently  pleasing  in 
his  manners.  He  was  not  only  master  of  several  langua- 
ges, but  deeply  read  in  the  arts  and  sciences,  and  pos- 
sessed all  the  minor  accomplishments  of  the  finished  gen- 

3 


aii 


34 


JAUNT   TO   THE    FALLS, 


His  character. 


tleman,  fascinating  colloquial  powers,  and  music  and 
drawing  in  great  perfection.  Many  years  of  his  life  had 
been  spent  in  travelling.  He  had  visited  Egypt  and  Pa- 
lestine ;  had  travelled  through  Turkey  and  Greece,  Italy, 
Spain,  Portugal,  and  France  ;  and  had  resided  for  con- 
siderable periods  of  time  in  Rome,  Naples,  and  Paris. 
While  at  the  Falls,  business  brought  him  in  contact  with 
several  of  the  inhabitants,  with  a  few  of  them  he  would 
sometimes  be  sociable  ;  to  all  others  he  was  distant  and 
reserved.  His  conversations  were  always  interesting, 
and  his  descriptions  of  countries  and  people  highly  glow- 
ing and  animated.  But  at  times,  even  with  his  favored 
acquaintance,  he  would  hold  no  converse  ;  but  commu- 
nicated to  them  his  wishes,  on  a  slate,  and  would  request 
that  nothing  might  be  said  to  him.  He  would  frequent- 
ly, for  three  or  four  months  together,  go  unshaved ; 
often  with  no  covering  on  his  head,  and  his  body  envel- 
oped in  a  blanket;  shunning  all,  and  seeking  the  deepest 
solitude  of  the  island.  He  composed  much,  and  gene- 
rally in  Latin  ;  but  he  destroyed  his  compositions  almost 
as  fast  as  he  produced  them.  When  his  little  cot  was 
examined,  hopes  were  entertained  that  some  manuscript 
or  memorial  might  be  found,  of  his  own  composition  ; 
but  he  left  nothing  of  the  kind.  His  faithful  dog  guarded 
his  door,  and  was  with  difficulty  pursuaded  aside  while 
it  was  opened.  His  cat  occupied  his  bed  ;  and  his  guitar, 
violin,  flutes,  and  music  books,  were  scattered  around 
in  confusion.  There  was  a  portfolio,  and  the  leaves  of  a 
large  book  ;  but  not  a  word,  not  even  his  name,  was 
written  in  any  of  them. 

Many  spots  on  Iris  Island  are  consecrated  to  the  me- 
mory of  Francis  Abbott.  On  the  upper  end  of  the  island 
he  had  established  his  walk,  and  in  one  place  it  had  be 


JAUNT   TO    THE    FALLS. 


35 


His  walks  —  his  temerity. 


d 

d 

a- 

y» 

n- 
s. 
th 
Id 
lid 


I 


i 


come  trodden  and  well  beaten,  like  that  on  which  a  sen- 
tinel performs  his  tour  of  duty.  Between  Iris  and  Moss 
Island,  there  is  embowered  in  seclusion  and  shade,  one 
of  the  most  charming  waterfalls,  or  cascades,  imaginable. 
This  was  his  favorite  retreat  for  bathing.  There  he  re- 
sorted at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  In  the  coldest  weather, 
even  when  snow  was  on  the  ground,  and  ice  in  the  water, 
he  continued  to  bathe  in  the  Niagara. 

On  the  lower  extremity  of  the  island,  tfltere  was  a 
bridge  leading  over  what  are  called  the  Terrapin  Rocks  ; 
from  this  bridge  th  re  extended  a  single  piece  of  timber, 
some  twelve  or  fifteen  feet  over  the  precipice.  On  this 
bridge  it  was  his  daily  practice  to  walk  ;  with  a  quick 
step  he  would  pass  the  bridge,  advance  on  the  tin^ber  to 
the  extreme  point,  turn  quickly  on  his  heel  and  walk 
back  ;  and  continue  thus  to  walk  for  hours  together. 
Sometimes,  he  would  let  himself  down  at  the  end  of  the 
timber,  and  hang  under  it  by  his  hands  and  feet  for  fifteen 
and  twenty  minutes  at  a  time,  and  this  over  a  chasm  so 
terrific,  as  to  make  dizzy  the  strongest  head.  On  being 
remonstrated  with,  for  thus  exposing  himself,  he  would 
reply,  that,  on  crossing  the  ocean,  he  had  frequently  seen 
the  sea-boy  in  much  greater  peril ;  and,  as  he  should  pro- 
bably again  pass  the  sea,  he  wished  to  inure  himself  to 
such  dangers  :  if  the  nerves  of  others  were  disturbed,  his 
were  not.  In  the  darkest  hours  of  the  night,  he  was 
often  found  walking  alone,  in  the  wildest  and  most  dan- 
gerous places  near  the  Falls  ;  and  at  such  times  he  would 
shun  the  approach  of  men,  afs  if  they  were  unwelcome  in- 
truders on  his  solitude. 

He  had  a  stipend  allowed  to  him  by  his  friends  in  Eng- 
land, competent  for  his  support.  B'!e  attended  to  the 
state  of  his  accounts,  very  carefully  ;  was  economical  in 


r^ 


V 


itp 


u 


i 


36 


JAUNT   TO   THE    FALLS. 


His  opinion  of  the  Views. 


his  expenditure  of  money  for  his  own  use  ;  but  generous 
in  paying  for  all  favors  and  services,  and  never  receiving 
any  thing  without  making  immediate  payment.  He  had 
a  deep  and  abiding  sense  of  religious  dudes  and  decorum; 
and  was  mild  in  his  behavior,  and  inoffensive  in  his  con- 
duct. Religion  was  a  subject  he  appreciated,  and  seemed 
well  to  understand.  The  charity  he  asked  from  others, 
he  extended  to  all  mankind. 

What,  it  will  be  inquired,  could  have  broken  up  and 
destroyed  such  a  mind  as  his  ?  What  drive  him  from 
society,  which  he  was  so  well  calculated  to  adorn, —  and 
what  transform  him,  noble  in  person  and  intellect,  into 
an  isolated  anchorite,  shunning  the  association  of  his 
fellow  men  ?  The  mystery  he  never  unfolded,  and  his 
friends  have  remained  silent  on  the  subject.  He  was 
about  twenty  eight  years  of  age,  at  the  time  of  his  death. 

With  the  scenery  of  the  Falls,  he  was  perfectly  infatu- 
ated, and  expressed  himself  in  the  most  rapturous  terms, 
when  he  spoke  of  the  beautiful  retreats  of  Ii  is  Island. 
He  was  asked,  why  he  did  not  take  up  his  residence  in 
Canada,  under  his  own  government  —  among  his  own 
people ;  and,  as  he  preferred  being  near  the  Falls,  he 
could  there  select  a  place  to  suit  him,  as  the  views  on 
that  side  were  considered,  by  many,  the  best.  His  reply 
was,  that  he  preferred  this  side,  because,  in  all  that  was 
interesting  and  beautiful,  the  American  scenes  around 
the  Falls  were  decidedly  superior. 


I 


JAUNT   TO   THE    FALLS. 


37 


Alexander's  Leap. 


'g 


Alexander's    leap. 


"  My  thoughts  came  back.    Where  was  I? 
And  numb,  and  giddy-,  pulse  by  pulse 
Life  reassumed  ita  lingering  hold; 
And  tlirob  by  throb,  till  grown  a  pang, 
Which  for  a  moment  would  convulse, 
My  blood  reflow'd,  thougli  thick  and  chill; 
My  ear  with  uncouth  noises  rang; 
My  heart  began  once  more  to  thrill ; 
My  sight  return'd,  though  dim,  alas ! 
And  thicken'd  as  it  were  with  glass  — 
Methought  the  dash  of  waves  was  nigh ; 
There  was  a  gleam,  too,  of  the  sky, 
Studded  with  stars : it  is  no  dream.'* 


Cold, 


At  a  spot,  about  thirty  rods  from  the  Falls,  a  thrilling 
incident  occurred  in  1836. 

A  number  of  men,  employed  upon  the  Lockport  and 
Niagara  Falls  rail  road,  were  one  night  carousing  at  a 
small  tavern,  in  the  village.  A  dispute,  upon  some  re- 
ligious subject,  arose  between  a  party  of  Irishmen  and  a 
few  Scotchmen,  who  happened  to  be  present.  The 
Scotchmen  soon  found  it  necessary  to  retreat  to  another 
room  ;  but  the  Irish  blood,  excited  with  whiskey,  was 
up,  and  they  rushed  in  upon  them,  swearing  death  and 
destruction  upon  *'  Luther's  breed."  It  had  become  one 
of  those  fierce  and  fatal  rows,  where  reason  is  lost  in 
passion  and  intoxication,  and  in  the  whirlwind  of  ex- 
citement, blows  are  dealt,  and  life  is  taken  ;  and  from 
which,  happy  is  he  who  can  safely  retreat.  The  Scotch- 
men rushed  through  the  back  door  and  over  the  fences, 
hiding  themselves  behind  trees  and  stumps.  They  all 
succeeded  in  eluding  their  infuriated  pursuers.     One  of 


-'^W' 


38 


JAUiNT   TO   THE    FALLS. 


HiH  fall  from  the  bank. 


them,  however,  by  the  name  of  Alexander,  though  he 
escaped  their  hands,  yet  met  with  an  accident  still  more 
dreadful.  When  he  got  out  of  the  yard  of  the  tavern,  he 
found  himself  pursued  by  several  persons.  He  was  not 
acquainted  with  the  place  :  it  was  about  9  o'clock,  and 
quite  dark  :  he  could  see  the  woods,  as  he  thought,  at  a 
distance.  He  ran  towards  iheni :  he  was  deceived  by  the 
brush  wood  and  scattering  trees  growing  along  the  upper 
bank  of  the  river.  As  he  entered  the  wood,  he  renif^m- 
beredshpping  :  the  slope  is  about  20  feet,  and  the  per- 
pendicular height  70  feet :  he  recollected  no  more.  The 
next  morning,  at  the  beginning  of  day,  he  found  him- 
self wounded  and  bleeding  on  the  rocks.  The  shelving 
bank  and  river  on  one  side,  and  an  insurmountable  bar- 
rier c»f  iock  on  the  other.  He  had  never  been  to  the 
Falls,  and  did  not  know  that  there  were  stairs  to  ascend 
the  bank  ;  but  the  shantee,  at  which  the  workmen  lived, 
he  knew  was  down  the  river.  In  hopes  of  finding  some 
place  to  ascend,  crushed  and  breeding  as  he  was,  he 
made  out  to  gather  himself  up,  and  made  his  way  over 
the  rocks,  and  through  the  brakes  and  bushes.  In  tliis 
mutilated  state,  he  crawled  along  for  nearly  two  miles. 

The  next  day,  towards  noon,  his  companions  began 
to  think  of  him  ;  and,  as  there  was  snow  on  the  ground, 
his  steps  were  without  difficulty  traced  to  where  he  had 
gone  over  the  bank.  A  party  was  despatched  below. 
Marks  of  blood,  and  the  manner  in  which  he  had  drawn 
himself  along,  soon  led  them  to  him.  They  found  him 
on  his  feet :  he  had  a  stick  in  his  hands,  over  which  his 
fingers  were  clenched  thro'  each  oth^r,  and  frozen  solid. 
He  was  going  round  and  round,  and  wns  then  in  a  bewil- 
dered state  ;  and  if  timely  relief  had  not  arrived,  he  would 
soon  have  perished.    He  was  wrapped  in  blankets,  and 


« 


JAUNT   TO   THE    FALLS. 


39 


Fi««h,  niul  Angling. 


conveyed  to  the  plnce  where  he  lived.  His  body  Bcvcre- 
ly  injured,  and  his  hands  nnd  feet  badly  frost-bitten  ;  but, 
with  good  medical  attendance,  and  careful  nursing,  he 
recovered  in  about  three  months,  with  the  loss  of  some 
fingers  and  toes.  Yet,  he  is  an  enfeebled  man,  and  it  is 
not  likely  that  his  former  strength  will  ever  be  restored. 


FISH,     AND     ANGLING, 

*'  Tlic  f'ilvcr  eel,  in  shining  volumes  roll'd; 
Tlie  yellow  carp,  in  sculcs  letlcck'd  with  gold? 
Swilt  trouts,  diversifie'-l  with  crimson  stains; 
And  pikes,  the  tyrants  of  the  wat'ry  jjlaiiis." 

There  are  several  places  where  fish  are  taken  with 
hook  and  line,  and  pleasant  sport  is  afforded  to  those 
fond  of  angling.  The  best  places  are  between  the  two 
sheets  of  water,  on  Iris  Island  ;  in  the  eddy,  at  the  ferry, 
in  Canada ;  and  at  the  Whirlpool  and  Devil's  Hole. 
There  are,  also,  several  other  places  resorted  to.  The 
river  abounds  with  a  variety  of  fish  :  white  fish,  salmon- 
trout,  pike,  pickerel,  perch,  sturgeon,  cat  fish,  white 
and  black  bass,  the  muscalunge,  eels,  herring,  and  many 
other  kinds. 

On  the  subject  of  fish  attempting  to  ascend  the  sheet 
of  water,  one  of  the  party,  a  traveller,  remarks — *'  In 
this,  I  am  reminded  how  I  was  amused,  many  years  ag  ■7, 
When  I  was  a  youth,  I  was  at  the  Falls,  on  some  busi- 
ness ;  and,  while  dinner  was  preparing,  the  schoolmaster 
of  the  village  came  in.  We  commenced  talking  about 
the  Falls.  He  communicated  to  me  his  whole  stock  of 
information ;  and,  with  other  things,  gravely  informed 


r:~g*v-!»-*-;""''if 


40 


JAUNT   TO   THE    PALLS. 


Hunting  CirounilM,  tmd  Ciiinic. 


t 


me  that  he  had  sat  for  hours  together,  in  observing  the 
exertions  of  fish  to  ascend  the  sheet  of  water.  They 
would  rise  for  about  eight  feet,  and  then  full  back,  and 
attempt  it  again.  Some  would  spring  from  the  water  ; 
others  would  ascend  the  sheet  by  muscular  strength." 

The  story  must  be  put  down  as  fabulous.  Yet,  cela 
do  actually  ascend  from  thirty  to  forty  feet,  on  the  rocks, 
among  the  moss  and  grass,  where  the  mist  from  the 
Falls  constantly  descends  ;  and  thoy  have  been  there 
picked  up,  in  considerable  quantities :  but  there  is  no 
possibility  of  their  reaching  the  river  above. 

Eels  were  not  formerly  taken  on  the  upper  lake  ;  but 
they  have  been  often  caught  in  the  river  below,  and  car- 
ried and  put  alive  in  the  stream  above.  It  was  supposed 
that  they  again  returned,  by  passing  over  the  Falls  ;  but, 
for  a  year  or  two  past,  a  few  messes  of  fine  eels  have 
been  caught  in  the  rivci*  above,  and  carried  to  the  Buffalo 
market. 


HUNTING     GROUNDS,     AND     GAME^. 

The  whole  extent  of  country  lying  east  of  the  Falls, 
on  the  American  side,  is  well  filled  with  game.  This 
tract  is  yet  new,  a  large  portion  of  it  being  in  a  state  of 
nature,  and  deer  and  bears  have  not  entirely  disappeared; 
though  the  latter  is  quite  a  stranger.  A  wolf  once  in  n 
while  shows  himself,  but  among  a  people  with  whom 
the  rifle  is  as  familiar  as  the  scythe  and  reaping  hook, 
his  career  is  but  short.  Foxes,  wild  cats,  racoons, 
squirrels,  and  other  wild  varment,  are  plenty.  Similar 
descriptions  of  game  are  yet  found  ci*  the  islanda. 


JAUNT   TO   THE    FALLS, 


41 


A  Kuine  story. 


For  the  sportsman,  there  are  clucks,  Bonietirncs  wild 
geese,  pheasants,  quails,  pigeons,  and  woodcocks.  The 
woods  of  Canada  also  abound  with  game  of  like  descrip- 
tions. 

Large  stories  have  been  related,  by  travellers,  of  water 
fowl  alighting  in  the  current,  above  the  Falls,  and,  before 
they  could  rise,  of  their  being  drawn  over. 

One  authentic  instance  can  only  be  mentioned.  As 
a  gentleman  was  standing  near  the  Falls,  he  saw  a  duck 
in  the  water  above.  It  was  playing  and  gamboling  in 
the  rapid  stream,  just  where  the  water  begins  to  curve 
over  the  rock.  It  plunged  in,  and  rose  again,  several 
times.  At  length,  it  dived  too  near  the  suction  of  the 
current,  and  over  it  went. 

After  very  heavy  and  dark  nights,  much  game  in  the 
morning  is  frequently  picked  up,  in  the  river  below  ; 
such  as  wild  geese,  ducks,  and  swans,  a  bird  not  com- 
mon to  the  country.  They  fall  in  the  current,  in  the 
darkness  of  the  night,  or  dash  themselves,  in  their  pas- 
sage, against  the  rocks  or  sheet  of  water.  They  are 
found  dead,  or  disabled,  with  broken  legs  or  wings. 

An  old  English  magazine,  called  the  "  Magazine  of 
Magazines,"  pretends  to  give  '*a  true  account  of  Niaga- 
ra Falls,  in  America."  Among  other  things,  it  states 
that  the  Indians,  in  their  canoes,  sometimes  passed  the 
Falls  in  safety.  That  the  quantity  of  game  drawn  in, 
and  carried  over  the  Falls,  was  so  great,  that  on  a  time 
the  French  garrison,  at  Fort  Niagara,  consisting  of  1000 
men,  becoming  destitute  of  provisions,  were  subsisted 
for  three  months  on  the  game  picked  up  below  the  Falls. 
Surely,  travellers,  in  those  days,  understood  how  to 
exaggerate  full  as  well  as  those  of  modern  times. 


i 


..  ^?Si£ill^iJtij>V  &liiK 


,^■^.^■:^■%^-^ 


42 


JAUNT   TO   THE    FALLS. 


Koad  down  the  bank. 


ROAD     DOWN     THE     BANK. 


Hi 


i 


Between  80  and  100  feet  from  the  Falls,  the  party 
arrive  at  a  large  excavation  in  the  bank.  Great  quanti- 
ties of  earth  have  been  washed  away  by  the  action  of  wa- 
ter conducted  in  a  race  from  the  rapids  for  that  purpose  ; 
and  mnescs  of  the  rock  have  been  blasted  loose,  and 
thrown  down.  It  is  the  commencement  of  a  carriage- 
road  to  the  ferry.  The  rond  down  the  bank,  in  Canada, 
was  completq^  J  2  or  14  years  ago,  and  this  was  begun 
soon  after.  Very  little  progress  was  made,  and  it  was 
soon  discontinued.  In  1836,  it  was  recommenced,  un- 
der the  auspices  of  Benjamin  Rathbun;  and  if  his  opera- 
tions had  not  been  brought  to  a  close,  it  would  uoon 
have  been  completed. 

One  of  the  party  remarks —  **  this,  and  the  Welland 
Canal,  connecting  the  two  lakes,  are  the  only  laudable 
enterprises,  undertaken  by  Canadians,  that  I  have  heard 
of,  in  which  they  have  gone  a-head  of  the  enterprising 
people  of  New  York." 

Such  will  not  long  be  the  case.  The  great  canal, 
around  the  Falls,  will  assuredly,  ere  long,  be  construct- 
ed ;  and  the  gentleman,  to  whom  the  road  belongs,  will 
not  long  delay  its  completion,  after  the  difficulties  that 
now  convulse  Canada  are  brought  to  a  settlement. 

When  this  work  was  first  commenced,  an  Irish  la- 
borer was  employed  on  a  projecting  rock,  of  several  tons 
weight.  Very  unexpectedly,  the  rock  gave  way,  and 
both  went  down  the  bank  together.  Fortunately,  the 
rock  passed  down  first,  struck  a  heap  of  earth  below, 
and  rolled  out  of  the  way.  The  man  fell  on  the  same 
heap  of  earth,  and  was  so  little  injured  that  in  a  few  days 
he  was  able  to  resume  his  work. 


J 


JAUNT  TO   THE    FALLS. 


43 


Thclndiun  Lmlder.  — Village. 


THE     INDIAN     LADDER. 


A  i'ew  rods  further,  nnd  the  guide  points  out  a  notch 
in  the  l)onk.  Here  is  the  oldest  plnco  for  descending  to 
the  Fulls:  it  is  called  the  Indian  Ladder.  The  ladder 
consisted  of  a  cedar  tree,  lying  sloping  agairat  the  rocks. 
The  natural  branches,  and  notches  cut  in  the  body  of  the 
tree,  were  the  only  slight  helps  aflbrded  to  those  who 
went  down.  The  last  person  known  to  have  descended, 
was  a  hunter,  by  the  name  of  Brooks.  He  was  in  pur- 
suit of  some  game,  which  he  had  shot,  and  had  fallen 
below.  He  got  about  halfway  down,  when  he  slipped, 
and  fell  between  20  and  30  feet,  an  ^  was  badly  injured. 

The  travellers  having  now  completed  their  tour  to  all 
the  most  interesting  points  along  the  bank,  excepting 
Point  View,  which  is  spoken  of  in  another  place,  con- 
clude to  return  to  the  hotel. 


VILLAGE  OF  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

"  Lead  on — to  yonder  village  lend, 
Where  heaven  has  happiness  decreed 

For  those  the  blessings  prize  •, 
Who  seek,  in  solitary  ease, 
Such  joys  as  innocently  please, 

Nor  wish  for  other  joys." 

In  1805,  Augustus  Porter,  Peter  B.  Porter,  Benjamin 
Bavton,  and  Joseph  Annin,  Esqrs.  became,  by  purchase 
of  the  State  of  New  York,  the  proprietors  of  a  consider- 
able tract  of  land,  lying  immediately  adjacent  to  the  Falls 


44 


JAUNT  TO   THE    FALLS. 


■'I 


i 


Village  —  Water-power. 


of  Niagara.  They  built  mills,  and  laid  out  a  village, 
which  was  called  Grand  Niagara,  but  was  soon  changed 
to  Manchester.  This  name  it  retained  for  several  years  ; 
but,  as  much  inconvenience  arose,  from  there  being 
several  other  places  in  the  State  of  the  same  name,  it 
was  altered  to  Niagara  Falls,  which  is  the  name  of  the 
post  office.  In  1813,  the  village  was  burnt  by  the  ene- 
my. After  the  war,  the  citizens  returned,  and  it  has 
very  gradually  increased,  since  then,  in  buildings  and  in- 
habitants. In  183G,  the  survey  of  the  village  was  great- 
ly extended  ;  the  lands  became  in  great  demand,  and 
large  sales  could  have  been  iiiude  at  enormous  prices. 
Some  lots  were  sold  ;  but  the  owners  preferred  retaining 
their  property,  rightly  judging  that  the  time  had  not  ar- 
rived for  the  accomplishment  of  their  enlarged  views  in 
disposing  of  their  estates. 

The  water-power,  at  this  place,  is  unlimited  ;  and  at 
some  distant  day  must  come  largely  in  use,  for  manufac- 
turing purposes.  There  are  now  one  large  grist  mill, 
two  saw  mills,  a  woollen  manufactory,  a  trip  hammer 
shop  and  furnace,  and  two  machine  shops.  Ther6  are, 
also,  two  blacksmiths'  shops,  two  cabinet  makers'  shops, 
one  shop  for  the  manufacture  of  rail  road  cars,  four  mer- 
chants' shops,  one  public  library,  one  museum  of  min- 
erals on  Bath  Island,  two  splendid  hotels  and  three  other 
public  houses,  two  public  schools,  eighty  dwellings  of 
all  kinds,  and  upwards  of  five  hundred  inhabitants. 

The  location  is  commended  for  its  healthiness,  and, 
for  rural  beauty,  it  is  unexcelled.  It  affords  the  finest 
places  for  residences,  for  those  who  wish  to  combine 
elegance  of  scenery  and  salubrity  of  air,  of  any  on  the 
Niagara  frontier. 


,«,v..^.«. 


JAUiNT   TO    THE    FALLS. 


45 


,3vi 


Extract  from  Hooker's  Album. 


The  author  cannot  refrain  from  closing  this  part  of  his 
work  with  the  following  charming  lines,  from  Mr. 
Hooker's  Album  : 

NIAGARA     FALLS. 


"  I  love  to  gaze  upon  that  ceaseless  rush 
Of  waters ;  for  it  doth  raise  my  full  soul 
To  Him,  who  bids  the  deep  in  wildness  flow ; 
Who  heaves  the  mighty  flood  from  rock  to  rock, 
And  sends  it  dashing  to  the  dark  abyso, 
Where  it  doth  thunder  forth  His  glorious  might, 
And  speak  eternally  Jehovah's  praise. 
Scarce  less  I  love  to  gaze  upon  the  circling  foam 
And  silv'ry  mist;  for,  on  their  milder  front, 
I  behold  the  sweet  bow  of  promise,  arched  — 
That  bow,  which,  when  refulgent  on  his  eyes, 
And  first  was  sent  to  cheer  his  heart, 
Who  mourn'd  the  ruins  of  a  world,— to  hiih 
It  spoke  of  hope,  and  peace,  and  future  calm. 
And,  as  awe  struck,  I  gaze  on  yonder  flood. 
All  terrible  in  wild  sublimity, 
Trembling  I  turn  away :  —  then  do  I  love 
To  fix  my  eyes  on  the  bright  pledge  of  hope, 
And  think  that  He  who  gave  it  to  be  ours 
Is  not  a  God  omnipotent  alone, 
But  is  a  God  of  love— eternal  love." 


;| 


1 

r 


"  Niagara  Falls,  3d  Augt.  1835. 


':i 


u 


! 


,1 

"]  J»  I 


AViJ-.i^iiiffiftj'tW^'--'  -.-'<i 


"m;^" 


-waxviamamiMip 


«!rti«.j-**^ 


.  -f,' 


M 


A   JAUNT 


TO 


IRIS  AND  OTHER  ISLANDS 


IN  THE  VICINITY  OF 


NIAGARA    FALLS. 


bL 


s 


IRIS    ISLAND. 


m 

Ml 

1 1 


•'  Go  to  the  cool  and  shady  bowers, 
W'r.ie  flow  the  wild  cascades ; 

Stroll  through  each  green  and  deep  recess, 
And  dark  romantic  glades. 


'1 

f  f 

I  f 

f 


Then,  rest  thee,  on  the  mossy  bank, 

Or  onward  further  stray, 
And  gaze  upon  the  mighty  stream, 

That  winds  its  course  away." 


4 


a. 


ill 


THE    ISLANDS. 


I"'  I 

■■if 


'*  Siiy,  shall  we  wind 
A!(>ii,;'  tlio  HtrciiTus  ?  or  walk  the  siuLliug  mead  ? 
Or  euiui  the  forest  glade?  " 

There  are  several  islands,  which,  from  their  locality 
and  peculiar  position,  in  reference  to  the  Falls,  have 
attracted  the  attention  and  curiosity  of  strangers  ;  and  a 
visit,  to  some  of  them,  is  never  neglected  by  those  who 
have  an  opportunity.  The  one  most  interesting  is  Iris, 
or,  as  it  is  commonly  called.  Goat  Island.  Many  years 
since,  a  resident  at  Schlosser  put  some  goats  on  the 
island,  and  hence  the  name.  The  present  proprietors 
have  given  it  the  name  of  Iris  Island.  As  that  is  very 
appropriate,  it  is  proper  thit  it  should  be  gv^nerally 
adopted. 

It  lies  in  latitude  43  deg.  6  min.  and  longitude  2  deg. 
5  sec.  west  from  Washington  city  ;  and  contains  be- 
tween 6i)  and  70  acres.  Though  the  soil  is  an  accumu- 
lation of  earth  upon  aheap  of  rocks,  yet  it  is  very  fertile, 
producing  all  the  native  plants  of  the  country  in  great 
luxuriance.  A  circuit  round  it,  which  visiters  usually 
take,  is  about  a  mile.  By  the  Boundary  Commissioners, 
who  were  appointed  under  the  Treaty  of  Ghent,  it  was 
very  properly  adjudged  to  belong  to  the  United  States  ; 
and  the  Indian  title  being  extinguished,  it  fell  into  the 
hands  of  private  individuals.  Just  at  theupper  endof  the 
island,  commence  the  terrific  rapids  that  lead  on  to  the 
Falls.  There  the  river  divides  ;  the  main  body  passing 
on  the  south-western  side,  and  the  lesser  on  the  north-; 
eastern.     The  lower  end  of  the  island  is  like  the  main 


i 


\. 


1 


Ji 


-<,aiK.-i-i,-*'<!i«©<<p«ir™w- 


52 


THE    ISLANDS. 


Jiiunt  to  tlic  Island. 


shore  below  the  Falls  —  a  perpendicular  bank,  from  70 
to  90  feet,  and  thence,  to  the  water's  cdj^e,  a  sloping 
precipice  of  from  J 00  to  1*20  feet.  A  small  portion  of 
the  island  has  been  cleared  off,  and  i8  in  a  slate  of  culti- 
vation ;  but  the  principal  part  is  yet  covered  with  native 
forest  trees,  of  various  kinds  :  tiirouyh  the  density  of 
some  of  which,  when  covered  with  their  rich  foliage, 
the  rays  of  the  sun  are  seldom  admitted. 

In  making  the  tour  of  the  island,  occasion  will  be 
taken  to  mention  and  describe  such  other  islands  that 
lie  in  the  Niagara  river,  as  have  in  any  way  drawn  the 
attention  of  the  public. 


JAUIiT     TO     THE     ISLAND. 

"  Summer!  delicious  summer!  thou  dost  ilirij* 
Thy  unhouglit  treasures  o'er  the  glorious  earth  ! 
Music  is  in  thy  step,  and  in  thine  eye 
A  flood  of  sunshine!    On  thy  hrow  is  wreathed 
Garlands  that  wither  not,  and  in  thy  breath 
Are  all  the  perfumes  of  Arabia!  " 

The  party  leave  the  hotel,  and  turn  down  a  short 
street,  called  Bridge  street.  They  fall  into  conversation 
with  the  guide,  making  such  inquiries  of  him  as  are 
usually  interesting  to  travellers,  and  such  as  ai  j  com- 
monly made.  The  information  which  follows,  is  in 
answer  to  such  questions  : 

Besides  seeing  the  Falls,  travellers,  who  remain  for 
any  length  of  time,  find  various  amusements. 

For  those  who  like  in-door  exercise,  there  is  a  ball  or 
nine-pin  alley.  There  is,  also,  in  the  village,  got  up 
exclusively  for  the  use  of  travellers,  several  billiard 
tables. 


'i;:; 


JAUNT    TO    THE    ISLAND. 


53 


Aimis-omciitM. — 'J'he  K{ipi<ls. 


There  is  a  library  ;  and  at  another  place,  a  reading- 
room  :  but  the  locnlity  itself,  iu  general,  allbrds  abund- 
ant amusement  lor  several  days. 

Kome  resort  to  the  baths  :  others  ])nthc  in  the  river. 
Some  amii.se  themselves  iu  Ushiiig  :  others  mi  fowling, 
and  in  seeking  after  the  great  JKibl  eagle.  Jt  /me  of  the 
noblest  of  the  species  have  been  Ibund  in  this  ([uarter  ; 
specimens  of  which  arc  to  be  seen  at  Mr.  Barnet'a  mu- 
seum, in  ('anada. 

The  generality  of  travellers  ride  to  those  places  which 
it  has  become  fashionable  to  visit.  Old  Fort  Schlosser, 
up  the  river  —  the  mineral  spring  —  the  Whirlpool,  the 
next  most  interesling  obj{!ct,  after  the  Falls  —  the  Tus- 
caroras  indian  village  —  and  Fort  Niagara. 

Besides  those,  considerable  time  may  be  spent  most 
pleasantly  in  a  trip  to  Canada. 

On  Sunday,  some  travellers  go  to  church,  in  the  vil- 
lage ;  others  go  to  the  meeting-house  of  the  Indians  ; 
some  ride  to  the  places  mentioned  ;  and  some  promenade 
round  the  island  and  Falls. 

Traveller. — *'  Since  I  have  been  here,  1  have  noticed 
the  residence  of  Judge  Porter  ;  it  is  one  of  the  most  ele- 
gant situations  I  ever  beheld.  1  am  told  he  is  very 
wealthy.  How  did  he  acquire  his  fine  possessions  at 
this  place  ?  " 

Guide. —  "  He  purchased  the  lands,  many  years  ago, 
of  the  State  of  New  York.  lie  is  a  gentleman  of  great 
industry  and  distinguished  talents.  He  has  built  for 
himself  the  fortune  which  he  enjoys." 

The  party  are  descending  a  small  declivity,  towards 
the  bridge,  to  the  island. 

Traveller. — ''Indeed,  this  prospect  is  very  grand; 
those  majestic  waves,  bounding  and  curving  along,  and 


it, 


0 


:?-f 


i-i 
V 


i 


54 


JAUNT    TO    TIIK     ISLAND. 


The  Bridge. 


that  hii(l<i('  lyii't'  'it  i"i!*^t  over  ihem  !  Ilorc  in  nature,  in 
nil  lu'r  mif^fht  ;  nnd  tlio  art  of  nuiii  triunipliing  over  ol>- 
alacles  appeurinjj  almost  insurmountahle.  " 


THE     li  lil  1)  (i  R     TO      THE     ISLAND. 


I 


t; 


P 


1 


The  constniftion  of  iliirt  I^idi^c  appeared  almost  in- 
credible to  an  individual  who  h  ipix-ned  lo  he  at  this  place 
when  the  work  was  fjjoini;-  {'orwiird.  One  or  two  ol'  the 
pierw  only  were  laid  down.  lie  inquired  ol"  one  of  the 
workmen,  the  object  ol'  the  bridge,  nnd  to  where  it  was 
goin<.^.  ''  To  the  island,"  Wiis  the  re])Iy.  ''  1  don't 
want  to  live  any  lonf-er,"  siiid  the  stranger,  ''  than  until 
you  get  this  bridge  lo  the  island."  He  could  not  be 
convinced  that  its  construction  was  practicable. 

It  was  built  by  firs;  erecting  piers  ne:ir  the  shore  ; 
long  timbers  were  then  projected  beyond  them.  After 
which,  two  subslaniiai  posts  or  sluds  were  let  down, 
nnd  rested  on  the  bottom,  at  the  end  of  the  projecting 
timbers,  which  were  firmly  secured  to  them,  and  sup- 
ported them,  until  a  small  crib,  filled  with  stones,  was 
sunk.  Then  the  large  timbers  for  the  piers  were  framed, 
put  down,  and  fastened  to  the  small  crib.  They  were 
then  filled  with  stones,  the  string-pieces  put  on,  and  the 
planks  laid.  After  one  pier  and  bent  were  completed  in 
this  manner,  the  long  timbers  were  again  moved  for- 
ward, and  another,  and  another  constructed,  until  the 
whole  were  finished.  The  projectors  were  Judge  Porter 
nnd  his  brother.  Gen.  Porter,  who  are  the  owners  of  the 
island.  The  original  cost  of  the  bridge  was  only  about 
sixteen  hundred  dollars  ;  but,  since  its  erection,  there 
have  been  various  expenditures  upon  it,  making  it  to 
amount  to  much  more. 


r 


JAUNT   TO    THE    ISLAND. 


55 


Red  Jacket. 


Tlio  creation  of  this  bridge  line  univeranlly  received 
the  coniinrudiilion  of  travellers.  It  emibles  them,  with 
n  triflin^5  oxpenne,  to  viHit  ihc  i.shind  with  ftall'ly  and 
convenience  ;  nn  undertaking  whi'ch,  hefore,  was  at- 
tended with  considerai)lc  expence  and  sonic  exposure  to 
danger.  It  has  tlirown  open  to  the  j)ul)lic  view,  one  of 
ihe  wonders  of  tlie  worhl,  which,  to  the  grealc.Mt  propor- 
tion of  visiters,  could  only  before  be  seen  at  a  distance. 

The  income  of  the  bridire  is  considerable,  but  no  more 
tlian  a  fjiir  return  for  such  a  work.  Too  much  credit 
cannot  bo  bcslowed  ui)on  the  jvenius  that  suggested  the 
project,  and  so  substantially  cxeeuteil  it. 

The  celebrated  Indian  Cliief,  Red  Jacket,  passed  over 
the  bridge  with  one  of  the  proprietors,  shortly  after  it 
was  comi)leied.  1  lis  sinister  feelings  towards  white  men, 
rind  his  envy  of  their  superiority  over  his  brothers  of  the 
forest,  are  well  known.  As  he  walked  along,  the  min- 
gled emotions  of  hate,  envy,  and  adnuration,  which 
rankled  in  his  bosom,  were  expressed  every  little  while, 
as  he  looked  on  the  dashing  waters,  firm  piers,  and  se- 

<'ure  superstructure,  with  '' Yankee,"   <'—___ 

Yankee,"  applying  an  ointhet  not  proper  to  mention, 
though  easily  guessed, —  one  demonstrative  more  of  spite 
dian  good  will. 


Sv 


I 

r 


IMPROVEMENTS     O:,      IRIS     ISLAND. 

Besid'^s  making  a  new  and  enlarged  bridge  to  the 
island,  in  which  work  the  proprietors  are  now  engaged, 
General  Peter  B.  Porter  is  adding  some  other  improve- 
ments, which  will  considerably  enhance  the  attractions 


I 


56 


JATTNT   TO   THE    ISLAND. 


Improv^ementa  on  Iris  Island. 


W 


of  this  secluded  place.  The  garden  he  is  embellishing 
with  much  taste.  He  is  enclosing  a  park,  of  eight  acres, 
which  he  intends  to  stock  with  deer,  and  other  native 
denizens  of  the  forest.  His  fish-pond,  which  is  almost 
completed,  will  be  filled  with  fish  from  the  river  and 
lakes  ;  and  not  of  less  interest  to  the  travelling  gour- 
mand, will  be  a  poultry  yard,  of  four  acres,  with  all  the 
suitable  requirements  for  the  noisy  community,  consist- 
ing of  common  fowls,  ducks,  geese,  turkeys,  the  ever 
chattering  peahen,  and  strutting  peacock.  A  dam  and 
small  embankment  is  now  in  forwardness,  to  conduct  a 
stream  of  water  from  the  Niagara  river  to  a  reservoir  ; 
thence  to  the  fish  ^ond,  the  garden,  the  park,  and  poul- 
try ;  and  to  irrigate  the  island  in  various  directions.  To 
these,  the  General  intends  to  add  a  small,  but  elegant, 
romantic-like  cottage,  for  occasional  summer  use. 


n 


4 


Arriving  fJ,  Bath  Island,  the  travellers  ascend  the  bank, 
enter  the  toll-house,  and  pay  the  charge  of  twenty-five 
cents  each  ;  which  gives  the  individual  the  privilege  of 
visiting  the  island  during  his  stay  at  the  Falls,  or  at  any 
time  thereafter  for  the  current  year.  They  register  their 
names,  and  look  at  the  Indian  and  other  curiosities, 
which  are  kept  there  for  sale  ;  and  generally  make  some 
purchases,  as  remembrances  of  the  Falls,  or  for  presents 
to  friends  or  children. 


I 


JAUNT   TO    THE    ISLAND. 


57 


Bull)  Island. 


BATH     ISLAND. 


(( 


Sounds 


The  isle  is  full  of  noises, 
-  that  give  delight,  and  hurt  not." 


A  traveller  thus  speaks  of  this  island  :  *'  It  is  itself  a 
curiosity  worth  beholding.  To  visit  this,  alone,  would 
be  worth  the  cost  of  the  Inidge  which  leads  to  it.  Why, 
it  is  a  perfect  chaos  !  How  the  waters  rush  and  roar 
along,  beating  vainly  against  the  impregnable  rock  to 
which  it  is  fast  bound.  Those  trees  and  green  patches  ; 
this  broken  surface  and  firm  rocks  are  all  in  ir  son  with 
each  other*  Nature  has  charms  here,  amid  the  boister- 
ous waters  of  the  Niagara,  that  I  little  imagined." 

This  island  derives  its  name  from  the  baths  which  are 
kept  there,  comprising  a  shower  bath,  and  cold  and  warm 
baths,  according  to  the  wishes  of  those  who  desire  to  use 
them.  The  whole  area  of  the  island  is  only  about  an 
acre  and  a  half. 

On  the  south  side  of  the  island  is  a  paper  manufactory, 
belonging  to  the  Messrs.  Porters.  It  is  one  of  the  lar- 
gest and  best  conducted  in  Western  New  York,  and  in 
which  paper  is  made  with  machinery,  of  the  latest  im- 
provement. The  rags  are  put  in  the  engine,  and  are 
passed  out  through  the  machinery,  in  one  continuous 
sheet  of  paper,  dry  and  finished  for  use. 

The  islands  observed  just  above  Bath  Island,  are  Sloop 
and  Brig  Islands.  A  foot-bridge  formerly  extended  to 
them,  and  they  were  a  favorite  resort  of  visiters  in  the 
warm  afternoons  of  summer.  The  shade  of  the  trees, 
the  commotion  of  the  surrounding  water,  and  the  cool 
breeze  that  constantly  agitates  the  air,  make  them,  for 
Bociai  parties,  a  delightful  retreat  for  an  hour  or  two. 


.1  •, 


I 


58 


JAUNT    TO    THE    ISLAND. 


American  Flag  placed  in  the  Rapids. 


n 


J 


Having  passed,  with  much  admiration,  the  bridge 
which  spans  the  beautiful  and  rapid  piece  of  water  which 
courses  along,  between  Bath  and  Iris  Islands,  they  arrive 
upon  the  latter  island. 

Before  the  bridge  was  built,  Iris  Island  was  visited  by 
boats,  running  down  between  the  two  currents,  to  the 
upper  point  of  the  island.  To  strangers,  the  navigation 
npi)earcd  very  hazardous,  and  it  was  not  without  danger. 

In  the  severe  winter  of  1829,  the  great  accumulation 
of  ice,  in  the  river,  formed  a  communication  from  the 
main  sh  »re  to  the  island  ;  and,  though  the  bridges  were 
then  buat,  yet  many  persons,  for  curiosity  and  a  ramble, 
preferred  crossing  over  on  the  ice.  In  that  winter,  all 
the  adjacent  islands  were  accessible,  and  were  visited  by 
many  persons  ;  and  the  American  flag  was  planted  on  a 
ledge  of  rocks  in  the  middle  of  the  stream  above  Brig 
Island.  There,  surrounded  by  the  dashing  waves,  it 
floated  gallantly  during  the  succeeding  summer,  to  the 
admiration  and  wonder  of  strangers,  of  how  it  came 
there. 


A     DARING     ENTERPRISE. 


"  From  a  J)oy, 


I  wantoned  with  thy  breakers  —  they  to  me 
Were  a  delight." 

The  most  hardy  and  daring  enterprise  known  of  late 
years  to  have  been  performed  upon  the  rapids  of  the  Nia- 
gara, was  undertaken  by  Mr.  Joel  R.  Robinson  and  Mr. 
John  Smith.  There  was  observed  to  be  in  the  river  be- 
low Bath  Island,  hanging  to  the  rocks,  and  waving  in 
the  water,  something  that  had  the  appearance  of  cotton 


,«i«r««-*<>*~ 


JAUNT   TO     THE    ISLAND. 


59 


A  story. 


36 


cloth.  These  persons  got  a  boat,  and  hiunched  it  in  the 
river  near  the  paper-mill  floom.  Robinson  was  to  ma- 
nage the  boat,  and  Smith  to  secure  the  prize.  They 
succeeded  in  going  very  near  the  point  of  the  island 
which  lies  to  the  south-west  of  Bath  Island,  and  just 
above  the  Falls.  They  secured  two  pieces  of  domestic 
sheetings,  and  returnel  in  safely,  Robinson  having  ma- 
naged the  boat  over  the  driving  and  impetuous  water  in 
perfect  self-possession,  and  with  apparent  ease. 

Iris  Island  had  been  often  visited  both  by  the  French 
and  English,  previous  to  the  Americans  coming  in  pos- 
session. The  initials  of  names  have  been  found  upon 
the  trees  bearing  a  date  as  far  back  as  174*2.  In  an  old 
English  magazine,  it  is  related,  that  on  a  time  two  In- 
dians were,  by  accident,  cast  on  the  island.  They  made 
ropes  of  the  bark  of  trees,  and  pnssed  down  the  lower 
bank  to  the  river,  but  being  afraid  to  enter  in  between 
the  two  sheets  of  water,  returned.  An  ingenious  French 
blacksmith,  belonging  to  a  corps  of  artificers,  who  were 
then  in  this  quarter,  seeing  their  suffering  and  perilous 
condition,  constructed  a  pair  of  stilts,  by  which  means 
he  passed  over  safely  to  them,  carrying  them  supplies  ; 
and  by  the  same  means  finally  succeeded  in  getting  them 
off.  The  story  is  doubted,  but  it  is  not  altogether  in- 
credible. Some  years  ago,  the  construction  of  a  bridge 
over  the  roughest  part  of  tha  river,  to  the  same  place, 
would  have  been  considered  more  impracticable  than  the 
performance  just  mentioned. 

On  ascending  the  hill,  from  the  bridge,  three  walks 
are  presented  :  one  to  the  right,  leading  to  the  Riddle 
Staircase  and  to  the  Horse  Shoe  Fall  ;  the  one  in  front, 
goes  directly  across  the  island  ;  and  the  one  to  the  left, 
passes  near  the  edge  of  the  bank,  to  the  upper  end. 


il  i 


I  ffl 


!      S 


-  ^1    *' 


60 


JAUNT   TO   THE    ISLAND. 


The  Grove.— The  Hog's  Back. 


The  party  continue  the  jaunt,  taking  the  road  lending 
to  the  Biddle  Staircase.  It  is  the  course  usually  taken. 
On  advancing  a  short  distance,  they  enter  a  lofty  grove 
of  trees,  through  which  the  walk  passes  for  some  dis- 
tance. It  is  onr  of  those  delicious  places  for  which  na- 
ture has  done  every  thing,  and  to  which  art  can  add  no- 
thing. The  road  that  passes  through  it,  accomplishes 
all  that  ever  should  be  done,  nnd  the  sound  of  the  axe 
should  never  be  heard  upon  these  trees,  to  disturb  the 
stillness  which  reigns  around  this  spot,  or  to  profane 
what  nature  seems  to  have  consecrated. 

As  the  road  nears  the  lower  end  of  the  island,  the 
height  of  the  bank,  from  the  edge  of  the  water,  increases; 
from  which  circumstance,  appears,  this  part  of  the 
island  has  received  the  name  of  the  Hog's  Back.  The 
nam^  is  considered  very  inappropriate,  and  inapplicable  ; 
but,  as  some  travellers  have  spoken  of  the  Hog's  Back, 
as  being  something  peculiar,  it  has  been  thoii  ht  proper 
thus  succinctly  to  refer  to  it. 

At  the  north-western  corner  of  the  island,  there  is  a 
fine  prospect  of  the  river,  of  Canada,  and  of  the  Ameri- 
can Falls,  suitably  so  termed,  as  they  are  entirely  within 
the  United  States.  The  actual  boundary  is  in  the  centre 
of  the  river,  between  the  island  find  Canada,  and  must 
be  about  the  middle  of  the  Horse  Shoe  Falls.  By  some 
means  or  other,  the  public  have  been  led  into  a  mistake 
on  this  subject,  and  it  has  been  by  many  supposed  that 
the  principal  Falls  were  in  Canada.  Some  have  even 
spoken  of  '*  the  Niagara  Falls,  in  Canada."  The  truth 
is,  a  portion  of  the  Falls  is  exclusively  in  the  State  of 
New  York,  and  also  half  of  the  main  channel,  as  it  con- 
stitutes the  boundary  line. 


»:".'ia?pjH."tW"''f 


JAUNT    TO    THE    ISLAND, 


Prospect  IsUincl. 


TROSPECT     ISLAND. 


61 


"  Where  leaps 

The  torrent  in  its  wild  career, 
While  shake  its  barriers,  as  in  fear." 

From  the  point  of  Iris  Island,  fronting  the  American 
Falls,  descends  a  path  towards  Prospect  Island,  some- 
times called  Mrs.  Davis'  Island,  as,  while  she  was  visit- 
ing the  Falls,  a  foot-bridge  was  thrown  over  to  it,  and 
on  its  extreme  point  she  planted  a  few  seeds  of  the  ever- 
lasting pea,  which  were  observed,  some  years  afterwards, 
in  bloom,  with  their  beautiful  little  flowers  hanging  over 
the  side  of  the  bank,  near  the  Cave  of  the  Winds.  The 
bridge,  to  this  island,  is  generally  carried  away  in  the 
winter,  and  replaced  again  in  summer.  It  is  worth 
crossing  over,  to  ramble  through  the  tangled  evergreens, 
to  look  down  the  high  bank,  and  enjoy  the  prospect 
which  is  there  displayed. 


*'"« 


INGRAHAMS     CAVE. 

"  The  weeping  rocks  distil,  with  constant  dews ; 
The  gushing  waters  pensive  thoughts  infuse- 
Here  a  vast  arch,  the  cavity  so  wide. 
Scarce  can  the  eye  extend  from  side  to  side. 
High  o'er  the  roof  alternate  echoes  wave. 
And  sound  in  distant  thunders,  through  the  cave. 

This  cave  was  first  discovered  by  Joseph  W.  Ingra- 
ham,  Esq.  who  gave  it  the  name  of  Cave  of  the  Winds, 
one  as  applicable  as  any  that  can  be  used  ;  yet,  the  pub- 
lic, desirous  to  award  some  meed  of  their  esteem  t<j  the 
amiable  discoverer,  have,  in  many  instances,  evinced  a 


u 


1 


62 


JAUNT   TO    THE    ISLAND. 


Ingrahr.ni'd  Cave. 


'4  i 


I 


desire  to  use  his  name,  and  call  it  Ingraham's  Cave.  It 
was  first  entered  by  Mr.  Berry  Hill  White  and  Mr.  Geo. 
Sims,  of  Niagara  Falls  village.  They  passed  over  the 
rocks,  and  through  a  part  of  the  sheet  of  water.  It  was, 
they  alleged,  difficult  and  hazardous,  but  they  acknow- 
ledged themselves  fully  rewarded  in  the  new  and  mag- 
nificent scene  which  the  lofty  cavern  presented.  Mr. 
Ingraham  soon  afterwards  visited  it  himself,  and  Horatio 
A.  Parsons,  Esq.  and  a  few  others,  have  since  ventured 
in.  It  is  represented  to  be  near  one  hundred  and  twenty 
feet  wide,  about  thirty  feet  deep,  and  a  noble  arch  hang- 
ing over  he./1  eighty  feet  high,  and  the  sheet  of  water 
rolling  in  front. 

It  is  said  to  be  quite  an  adventure  to  go  under  Table 
Rock  :  it  is  a  much  greater  one,  to  visit  this  cavern. 

The  following  beautiful   lines  are  taken    from  Mr. 
Hooker's  Album ; 

"  Dread  n,',vc-lnspiiing  cavern  I    'Mong  the  new, 

Wild,  wondrouci  ol)jects  that  around  I  view, 

None  strikes  my  soul  like  thee !    Thou  seem'st  to  me 

The  very  porta!  of  sublimity  ! 

And  nature  —  as  if  dreading  to  expose 

The  hidden  mysteries  of  her  mighty  throes  — 

Hath  thrown  o'er  thee  a  wide-spread,  beauteous  veil, 

Woven  from  the  air-hung  waters  — snatched  from  out 
Their  wonted  channel  for  this  strong  avail  — 

And  dyed  it  with  the  loveliest  tints  throughout, — 
E'en  fringed  it  with  a  rain jow !    Mighty  cave ! 
What  siiall  we  call  thee  ?     What  n.ime  couldst  thou  have 
More  fit  than  his,  who  first  thy  depths  did  scan  — 
First  ope'd  thy  rocky  doors  to  wond'ring  man  ? 
Yes :  while  fierce  winds  thy  vaulted  arches  sweep, 

And  thy  wild  shores  the  rushing  waters  lave, 
Or  thunder  there  terrific  vigils  keep, — 

Be  thou  for  ever  known  as  Ingraham's  Cave  ! 


A.  H.  P ,  of  Georgia." 


JAUNT   TO    THE    ISLAND. 


63 


The  BidiUe  Staircase. 


Of  Joseph  W.  Ingraham,  Esq.  it  may  be  here  observed, 
that,  on  visiting  the  Falls,  some  years  since,  the  scene 
became  to  him  an  object  of  so  much  admiration,  that  he 
made  several  journeys  to  them  from  the  city  of  Boston, 
and  devoted  much   time   in   making  examinations   and 
surveys  ;  and  in  philosophical  and  historical  researches 
in  relation  to  them.     He  afterwards  published  a  valuable 
manual,  for  the  use  of  visiters,  and  has  been  for  several 
years  engaged  in  a  large  work  on  the  same  subject,  which 
the  reading  public   have  long  looked   for,  anticipating 
that  it  will  be  a  publication  of  much  interest.     The  able 
character  of  the  productions  which  he  has  already  brought 
before  the  piiblic,  the  materials  that  he  has  collected,  and 
his  distinguished  literary  abilities,  are  ample  assurances 
that  the  expectations  which  have  been  formed,  as  to  his 
large   work,    will   not  be  disappointed ;    and   that   his 
volume  will  be  worthy  a  place  in  every  man's  library. 


i^ii,  i 


i-i 


m  I 


THE     BIDDLE     STAIRCASE. 


The  party,  after  their  progress  to  Prospect  Island, 
retrace  their  steps,  and  continue  their  route  to  the  Bid- 
die  Staircase.  This  convenience,  for  descending  the 
bank,  was  erected  at  the  expense  of  Nicholas  Biddle, 
Esq.  It  was  a  great  desideratum  to  travellers,  to  be 
enabled  lo  reach  this  part  of  the  island,  to  range  along 
over  the  rocks,  and  to  advance  near  the  sheets  of  water. 
The  stairs  are  of  the  spiral  form,  well  secured  from  the 
weather,  and  about  eighty  feet  high.  Near  the  foot  of 
these  stairs,  at  the  jdge  of  the  water,  Sam.  Patch,  in  1829, 
made  two  leaps  from  a  platform,  97  feet  high,  erected 


64 


JAUNT   TO    THE    ISLAND. 


Horse  Shoe  Fulls. 


for  the  purpose.  Sam.  came  off  with  credit  here  ;  but 
shortly  after,  the  poor  fellow  made  two  leaps  at  Roches- 
ter,—  one  from  the  height  of  100  feet,  and  the  other  of 
125.  The  last  proved  fatal :  he  did  not  rise,  and  was 
never  found. 

After  the  travellers  have  proceeded  below,  and  gone 
as  near  the  sheets  of  water  on  each  side  as  they  desired, 
and  had  pointed  out  them  all  the  objects  of  interest,  they 
return,  and  resume  their  walk  along  the  brow  of  the 
bank. 


THE     HORSE     SHOE     FALLS. 


♦'  Thou  fearful  stream ! 

How  do  thj'  terrors  tear  me  from  myself, 
And  fill  my  soul  with  wonder!  " 


This  sublime  prospect  opens  to  view  suddenly,  be- 
tween the  trees.  The  rainbow,  seen  below,  encompas- 
sing a  cloud  of  spray,  is  as  beautiful,  with  all  its  mellow 
tints  of  coloring,  as  the  same  object  appears  after  a  sum- 
mer's shower. 

The  rainbows  are  seen  according  to  the  position  of  the 
spectator  with  that  of  the  sun.  In  the  morning,  they 
are  viewed  from  this  side  ;  in  the  afternoon,  from  the 
British  side.  At  night,  when  the  moon  shines  brightly, 
a  lunar  bow  encircles  the  Falls,  with  rays  well  defined, 
but  pale  and  murky.  On  such  nights,  large  parties  of 
visiters  congregate  on  the  island,  and  melancholy  influ- 
ences seem  to  pervade  every  bosom.  They  linger  round, 
speak  lowly,  and  appear  wrapt  in  reflection.     No  noisy 


JAUNT   TO   THE    ISLAND. 


65 


Prospect  Tower. 


conviviality,  no  boisterous  mirth  prevails  at  such  times, 
and  no  sound  is  heard,  except  the  deep  and  hollow  roar 
of  the  Falls. 

That  this  is  not  an  imaginary  picture,  every  one  who 
has  witnessed  the  scene  will  allow. 

In  the  centre  of  the  Horse  Shoe  Falls,  the  water  is  of 
a  pure  green  color,  and  is  adjudged  to  be  about  twenty 
feet  deep. 


I'     >i 


PROSPECT     TOWER. 

This  is  a  circular  building,  with  an  observatory  on  the 
top,  built  below  the  point  of  the  island,  among  the  Ter- 
rapin rocks.  From  the  observatory  is  presented  a  full 
view  into  the  very  midst  of  the  great  Falls,  and  into  the 
chasm  below. 

"  It  bubbles  up,  it  gurgles  forth,  it  hisses  and  it  roars, 
As  when  on  raging  fire  a  stream  of  gushing  water  pours; 
Wild  sheets  of  foam  shoot  through  the  air,  waves  thunder 

towards  heaven, 
As  forth  from  out  the  black  abyss  the  billowy  flood  is 

driven." 

The  timber  and  fragments  that  are  scattered  around, 
are  the  remains  of  a  bridge,  built  by  Gen.  Whitney,  a 
part  of  which  projected  over  the  bank.  It  was  on  a 
single  projecting  timber  of  this  bridge,  that  it  was  usual 
for  Francis  Abbott  to  walk,  and,  at  the  extreme  end, 
turn  on  his  heel  and  walk  back. 


1 


66 


JAUNT   TO   THE   ISLAND. 


i 


mi 


riiiiU'iil  imprecision. 


THE     IMPRESSIONS     OF     VISITERS. 

*'  When  nature's  niijjlit  some  wond'roua  scene  unfolds, 
And  awe-siruck  man  the  glorious  work  beholds, 
In  Hilence  fix'd  —  th'  enrapt  imagiiiiition  — 
Morethun  loud  words,  shows  forth  its  iidmiration." 

It  is  frequently  inquired,  what  are  the  usual  impres- 
sions of  visiters  ?  Tliey  are  various.  A  very  few  think 
lightly  of  the  Falls,  or  express  surprise  that  others  are 
so  absorbed  and  pleased  with  them.  The  greatest  re- 
mark such  persons  can  make,  is 


♦'  Oh  I  wha,t  a  place  to  sponge  a  coat 


(   rr 


Some  are  so  much  moved,  as  to  form  a  lasting  at- 
tachment, and  visit  them  often,  even  from  great  dis- 
tances. Others  have  been  completely  infatuated,  and 
seem  only  to  live  in  beholding  this  sublime  work  of  na- 
ture, and. in  inhaling  the  pure  though  mist-impregnated 
atmosphere,  which  arises  from  the  broken  waters. 

Some  look  upon  the  Falls  with  feelings  of  droad,  and 
the  impressions  they  leave  on  their  minds,  are  those  of 
terror.  Many  years  since,  when  travelling,  I  fell  in 
with  a  party  at  a  public  house.  Niagara  Falls  happened 
to  become  a  topic  of  conversation.  "  The  Falls,"  said 
a  lady  who  was  present,  **  I  saw  them  three  months  ago, 
and,  neither  sleeping  or  waking,  are  they  out  of  my 
mind :  I  hear  them  roar,  and  see  them  before  me  con- 
tinually." 

Is  their  impression  painful,  or  pleasant  ?  '^  I  inquired. 
**  Oh,  very  painful  and  distressing  !  They  are  dread- 
full  "  was  her  reply. 


JAUNT   TO    THE    ISLAND. 


07 


Winter  sccncg. 


When  a  parly  of  Indians,  from  the  far  West,  were  on 
their  return  from  Washington,  they  were  brought  this 
way.  When  they  saw  the  Falls,  they  evinced  emotions 
of  reverence,  and  cast  their  pipes,  wampum,  and  several 
'rinkets,  in  the  water,  as  ofierings  to  the  Mighty  Spirit 
of  the  place. 

Many  gentlemen  have  expressed  themselves  as  expe- 
riencing very  strange  sensations,  while  beholding  the 
Falls.  Fear  —  a  perception  of  weakness  —  trembling  of 
the  nerves  ;  but  the  predominant  sensations  are  those 
of  reverence. 

Traveller. — "  Such  sensations  are  becoming  the  place  ; 
for  who  can  look  upon  these  rising  clouds,  this  rush  of 
many  waters,  these  walls  of  solid  rock,  and  this  fathom- 
less abyss,  without  reverencing  Him  who  made  them, 
and  upholds  them  still." 


Mil 

!  ;     '  1 


'  M 


WINTER     SCENERY. 


"  Who  can  paint 


Like  nature?    Can  imnginfition  boast, 
Amid  its  gay  creation,  hues  lilce  hers  1  " 


The  Falls,  in  winter,  present  a  very  different  appear- 
ance from  that  of  any  other  season  of  the  year.  Large 
quantities  of  ice  accumulate  in  the  river  below,  which, 
gradually  gathering  in  the  eddies  with  that  which  is 
i)rought  from  above,  join  together,  and  form  a  natural 
bridge.  This  bridge  of  ice  extends,  frequently,  to 
within  a  short  distance  of  the  sheet  of  water,  and  to  the 
rapids,  two  miles  below.  It  is  in  places  from  twenty  to 
forty  feet  thick.     On  the  rocks,  such  large  quantities  of 


1 .1 


I 


68 


JAUNT  TO   THE    ISLAND. 


Winter  scenery. 


enow  and  congealed  mist  collect,  as  to  form  pyramids, 
reaching  almost  to  the  upper  surface  of  the  Falls.  On 
the  perpendicular  banks,  are  suspended  huge  icicles,  of 
the  most  fanciful  shapes,  which  are  white  as  alabaster, 
and  appear  at  a  distance  like  magnificent  columns.  But 
the  most  beautiful  sif  it  is  the  spray  congealed  upon  the 
surrounding  trees  anv  shrubs.  Every  branch  is  incrusted. 
It  looks  like  a  forest  of  coral,  but  of  dazzling  whiteness. 
Towards  the  close  of  the  day,  in  winter,  when  the  rays 
of  the  declining  sun  passes  through  the  rising  cloud  of 
mist,  it  appears  as  if  tinged  with  burnished  gold,  or  as 
a  bright  flame  of  fire,  floating  in  mid  air.  This,  with 
the  trees,  in  their  dress  of  perfect  whiteness,  makes  the 
scene  so  novel,  so  strange,  that  it  appears  like  fairy- 
work,  or  as  one  of  enchantment.  Nothing  is  wanted 
but  the  ice  palace  of  Catherine  of  Russia,  to  make  it  like 
a  perfect  winter  paradise  to  the  eye.  The  eye  only  can 
be  delighted  ;  to  every  other  sense,  it  is  the  v^ry  essence 
of  frost  and  cold  —  of  vapor  and  glittering  snow  :  a  meet 
place  for  ancient  winter's  court. 

Travellers  who  have  visited  the  Falls,  in  the  winter, 
say  that  when  the  trees  are  thiis  arrayed,  the  views  af- 
forded are  superior  to  those  of  summer.  Just  to  look 
on,  for  a  short  period,  it  is,  indeed,  unequalled  ;  but  you 
must  soon  hurry  away  to  the  warm  rooms  of  the  hotels. 
In  summer,  you  can  ramble  through  the  groves,  where 
nature  is  clothed  in  her  beautiful  dress  of  green,  and 
fruits,  of  every  shade  and  color,  hang  invitingly  on  the 
surrounding  boughs  :  then,  you  pass  from  scene  to 
scene — "all  nature  smiles."  Nothing  can  compare 
with  summer. 


JAUNT    TO   THE  ISLAND. 


60 


Shruba  nnd  plants.— Insects. 


SHRUBS     AND     PLANTS. 


It  has  been  reported,  that  there  are  many  plants  found  on 
Iris  Island,  not  common  to  the  surrounding  country. 
This  is  not  correct ;  but  there  is,  certainly,  in  the  i  mail 
space  of  the  island,  a  greater  variety  of  plants  to  bo  ob- 
tained, than  at  any  other  place.  For  this  reason,  many 
visiters  are  in  the  practice  of  collecting  herbnriu'.ns  of 
such  as  they  fancy. 

There  is  one  peculiarity  reputed  of  this  island,  which 
is  a  desideratum  vainly  desired  at  many  places.  It  is, 
that  there  are  here  no  musketoes,  or  other  insects,  to  an- 
noy or  interrupt  the  repose  of  those  who  seek  these 
secluded  bowers. 

This  has  been  contradicted  ;  but,  in  support  of  the 
assertion,  an  individual,  who  hos  resided  for  over  twenty 
years  at  the  Falls,  states  that,  during  that  time,  he  has 
not  seen  a  dozen  musketoes,  nor  been  bit  by  one  ;  and 
that  he  has  often  visited  the  island,  and  never  observed 
an  insect  of  this  description  on  it. 

The  party,  in  advancing  along  the  path,  by  the  side 
of  the  river,  come  to  a  place  where  the  walk  is  suddenly 
terminated  by  the  caving  in  of  the  bank. 

The  river,  at  this  spot,  has  made  advances  on  the 
shore  several  hundred  feet ;  and  the  road,  which  a  few 
years  ago  was  made  to  encircle  the  island,  is  here  for 
some  distance  washed  away.  The  water  is  continuing 
its  devastating  power,  most  forcibly.  A  large  piece  of 
the  island  will  soon  be  carried  over  the  Falls,  or  a  new 
channel  will  be  formed,  dividing  it  in  two. 


I 


H 


70 


JAUNT   TO    THE    ISLAND. 


Vessels  sent  over  tlie  Falls. 


VESSELS     SENT    OVER     THE     FALLS. 

"  Like  thee,  full  innnj'  n,  gallant  bark 

Hastes  ou  its  fated  way  ; 
The  wave,  the  gulf,  the  cavern  dr.rk, 

Ope'  to  receive  their  prey." 


The  party,  being  on  a  position  that  commanded  a  view 
of  the  vessels  going  down  the  river  and  passing  over  the 
Falls,  some  account  of  them  is  usually  requested.  The 
schooner  Michigan,  an  old  merchant  vessel,  of  lake  Erie, 
was  dismantled,  with  the  exception  of  the  masts,  and 
rigging  enough  to  hold  them  up,  and  sent  over  in  Sep- 
tember, 1827  ;  and  the  Superior  was  sent  over  in  Octo- 
ber, two  years  after.  They  were  towed  to  the  centre  of 
the  stream,  between  Navy  Island  and  Canada,  and  let 
loose.  The  Michigan  came  majestically  along  ;  figures, 
representing  men,  were  placed  at  proper  stations,  and  a 
number  of  animals,  both  domestic  and  wild,  were  on 
board. 

The  putting  of  animals  on  board,  for  certain  destruc- 
tion, for  mere  amusement,  was  not  generally  approved  ; 
but,  in  extenuation,  it  was  said  that  none  had  been  taken 
but  the  useless  and  vicious,  and  such  as  would  have  been 
destroyed,  if  they  had  not  been  selected  for  this  purpose. 

Onward  the  vessel  floated,  the  river  was  smooth,  and 
all  was  quiet  on  board.  The  poor  animals,  having  been 
tormented  as  they  had  passed  through  the  hands  of  the 
vicious  and  unfeeling,  tired  and  worn  out,  had  laid  them- 
selves on  the  deck  and  in  corners,  to  rest.  She  arrived 
at  the  first  descending  swell,  and  passed  down  gallantly. 
All  was  yet  in  repoae  on  board  ;  she  came  to  a  more 


f 


JAUNT   TO   THE    ISLAND. 


7] 


Moss  Island. 


I 


rapid  descent  ;  was  tossed  to  and  fro,  and  the  animals 
were  seen  running  about  from  one  place  to  another. 
Bruin  was  more  actively  engaged  than  others,  amid  the 
doomed  throng  ;  he  took  an  observation  from  the  rigging, 
which  he  ascended,  and  then  returned  to  the  deck.  StiH 
very  near  the  centre  of  the  river,  she  passed  along. 
Another,  and  a  greater  pitch  is  made  —  her  bow  points 
towards  the  Falls  — she  rocks  from  side  to  side  —  vainly 
she  labors  to  pass  the  rocky  reef: — the  masts  go  by  the 
board.  One  deep  descent  more  :  she  groans  harshly 
over  the  verge  — her  bow  descends,  and  with  an  astound- 
ing crash,  falls  upon  the  rocks  ;  she  breaks  in  two,  in 
the  centre  —  the  timbers  sink  to  the  water's  edge  —  and 
the  whole  moves  on, —  a  floating,  broke-n  mass,  and  pass 
over  the  Falls.  The  bear,  and  one  or  two  other  animals, 
reached  alive  the  Cnnada  shore,  above  the  Falls  :  all  the 
others  perished.  Between  15  and  20,000  persons  came 
together,  to  witness  this  sight. 

The  large  vessel,  called  the  Superior,  which  was  sent 
over  in  18'29,  did  not  proceed  in  its  voyage  of  destruction 
in  such  gallant  style.  She  lodged  on  the  rocks,  and  re- 
mained there  for  several  days,  and  went  over  unobserved, 
except  by  two  or  three  persons.  In  this  instance  no  ani- 
mals were  put  on  board. 


MOSS     ISLAND. 

^  In  ij^nntifiil  wililnee?  it  whirls  uway. 
Wasting  its  wealth  in  feathery  spray." 

The  walk  round  the  island  passes  n«ar  to  the  beautiful 

stream  of  water,  which  runs  on  the  north  side  of  Moss 

lylnnd.     This  stream  is  overhung  and  enshrouded  with 

trees  and  evergreen  shrubs^  whose  leaves  dip  in  the  sil- 


I 


ti 


H 


72 


JAUNT   TO   THE    ISLAND. 


The  Hermitage. 


1 1! 


vered  water  a&  it  glides  along.  In  its  course,  there  is  a 
most  lovely  water-fall,  in  miniature,  and  which  Francis 
Abbott  used  as  his  shower  bath.  The  adjacent  spot  is 
called  Moss  Island,  on  account  of  the  mossy  and  velvet- 
like  appearance  of  its  surface.  On  this  island,  Abbott 
wished  to  build  a  rustic  cottage.  As  he  described  it,  it 
was  to  be  of  rough  materials,  with  latticed  windows,  and 
to  be  covered  with  moss  and  evergreen  creeping  vines. 
To  the  island  he  proposed  to  have  a  bridge,  in  unison 
with  the  cottage,  with  a  draw  attached  to  it,  that,  when 
he  desired  to  be  alone,  he  might  be  secure  from  all  in- 
trusion, and  be  himself  the  master  of  a  small  and  solitary 
domain. 

"  Recluse,  and  hid  from  every  eye. 
Save  that  of  smiling  heaven." 


Such  additions  would  have  been  quite  an  attraction, 
and  the  hermit,  himself,  a  great  curiosity.  He  appears 
to  have  been  just  the  kind  of  man  required  to  animate 
these  wild  romantic  scenes.  On  the  subject,  he  observed, 
himself,  "On  some  of  the  great  estates  in  England, 
where  the  proprietors  seek  to  give  a  romantic  interest  to 
their  possessions,  a  forest  or  some  retired  glen  is  chosen, 
where  a  hermitage  i&  erected,  and  a  man  hired  to  play 
the  hermit.  When  the  owner  passes  over  his  estate, 
with  his  friends,  the  hermit,  with  his  flowing  beard,  and 
dressed  in  antique  costume,  receives  them  at  the  hermit- 
age." He  would  conclude,  by  saying — "I  desire  to 
live  alone :  I  voluntarily  wish  to  retire  from  the  world. 
It  suits  me  not  to  mingle  with  mankind." 

The  islands  lying  beyond  Moss  Island,  are  not  acces- 
sible, excepting  m  some  severe  winters,  when  the  ice 
and  snow  is  driven  around  them,  and  dammed  tho  water 


JAUNT   TO  THE   ISLAND. 


73 


Navy  Island. 


off ;  at  such  times  they  have  been  visited  by  a  few  per- 
sons. The  little  island  which  lies  between  this  and  the 
Canada  shore,  and  which  just  rises  above  the  water,  is 
called  Gull  Island,  from  the  circumstance  of  its  being 
the  resort  of  great  numbers  of  birds,  of  that  species. 
There  they  live  secure  and  unmolested  by  man. 

Some  years  ago,  a  bridge  from  the  island  to  Canada, 
to  pass  over  Gull  Island,  was  a  favorite  project  with  some 
gentlemen. 

It  would  have  been  a  great  undertaking ;  and,  if  com- 
pleted, a  curiosity  not  less  interesting  than  the  Falls. 

Having  arrived  at  the  head  of  the  island,  where  an  un- 
obstructed prospect  of  the  river  is  presented,  several  ob- 
jects are  elicited  by  ths  inquiries  of  travellers.  They  are 
comprised  in  the  notices  which  follow  : 


i) 


NAVY     ISLAND. 

"  There  is  a  pleasure  in  the  pathless  woods ; 
There  is  a  rapture  on  the  lonely  shore ; 
There  is  society,  where  none  intrudes, 
By  the  deep  wave,  and  music  in  its  roar : 
I  love  not  man  the  less,  but  nature  more." 

This  island  contains  three  hundred  acres  of  land.  It 
belongs  to  Canada,  the  main  channel  running  between 
that  and  the  American  shore.  Opposite  to  Navy  Island, 
is  Street's  point,  in  Canada.  It  was  once  a  navy  yard 
of  the  British,  and  late  the  residence  of  Captain  Usher, 
one  of  the  persons  concerned  in  the  Caroline  affair,  an4 
who  was  assassinated  in  December,  1838. 


i   *i 


74 


JAUNT   TO    THE    ISLAND, 


The  Low  Family. 


THE     LOW     FAMILY* 

'*  Ah !  never  shall  the  land  forjrct 
How  gushed  the  Ife-blood  of  her  brave  — 

Gushed,  warm  with  liope  and  valor  yet, 
Upon  the  soil  they  fought  to  save." 

Prior  to  the  last  war,  and  before  Navy  Island  was 
adjudged  to  belong  to  the  British,  Mr  John  Low  made 
some  improvements,  and  built  a  house  on  the  eastern 
end.  He  resided  there  with  his  family.  They  were 
Americans  by  birth  and  in  principle,  and  of  very  respect- 
able character  and  connexions.  When  the  war  broke 
out,  they  left  the  island,  and  took  up  their  resiaence  on 
the  mountain,  near  Bloody  Run.  At  the  battle  of 
Queenstown,  so  unfortunate  to  the  American  Arms,  old 
Mr.  Low  promptly  volunteered,  as  one  of  the  pilots,  to 
conduct  the  boats.  While  thus  employed,  he  was  fatally 
wounded,  and  died  soon  after. 

His  son,  John,  at  the  time  of  hib  father's  death,  had 
just  engaged  in  the  practice  of  the  law,  in  the  county  of 
Niagara  ;  but  gave  up  the  prospect  of  a  lucrative  practice 
to  serve  his  country,  and  accepted  a  lieutenancy  in  the 
army. 

In  the  disastrous  close  of  the  year  1813,  when  the 
destruction  of  all  the  villages  and  settlements  on  the 
Niagara  river  was  effected  by  the  combined  forces  of  the 
English  and  Indians,  Lieut.  Low  was  at  old  Fort  Schlos- 
eer,  of  which,  however,  there  was  then,  and  lias  l)een 
since,  nothing  remaining  but  the  name.  The  British 
force  that  scoured  along  the  border,  was  overwhelming. 
The  lieutenant,  with  a  few  men,  waited  tlie  approach  of 
the  enemy,  and  made  juch  resistance  as  they  could.  He 
was  shot,  and  his  men  saved  themselves  by  flight. 


i 


JAUNT    TO    THE    ISLAND. 


75 


William  Chnmliers. 


After  the  soldiery  had  secured  the  plunder,  they  took 
the  body  of  Low,  and  laying  it  on  a  table  in  the  hall  of 
the  ancient  Schlosser  house,  set  the  building  on  fire. 
This,  and  all  the  other  houses  in  the  place,  were  con- 
sumed. 

A  brother,  by  the  name  of  Vincent,  when  the  war  was 
over,  entered  the  military  academy,  at  West  Point. 
About  a  year  after,  on  the  occasion  of  firing  a  salute, 
the  cannon  burst,  ana  nC  was  killed.  His  monument  at 
West  Point  records  the  melancholy  event. 


W  I  L  L  I  A  BI     CHAMBERS. 

"  No  voice  comes  to  him  o'er  the  vast  of  waves, 
But  tlie  wild  dashing  of  the  unrelenting  surge." 

In  the  accounts  of  the  affair  of  Navy  Island,  an  old 
woman  is  mentioned  as  being  the  only  inhabitant  when 
Mackenzie's  men  took  possession.  She  was  the  widow 
of  William  Chambers,  an  individual  among  the  early 
settlers  of  the  country,  of  some  notoriety.  He  was  one 
of  those  persons  often  found  upon  the  frontier  of  two 
nations  ;  sometimes  living  in  one,  and  at  another  time 
living  in  the  other  ;  taking  a  part  equally  with  citizens 
or  subjects  in  political  affairs,  and  entering  with  interest 
in  matters  and  things  incident  to  the  nation  in  which  he 
happened  to  be.  In  Canada,  a  most  loyal  subject :  in 
the  Uiiited  States,  most  vociferous  in  support  of  the 
dominant  party. 

At  the  commencement  of  the  war  with  England,  he 
resdded  in  the  United  States,  a  few  miles  in  the  rear  of 
Fort  Niagara.     At  one  period,  he  was  suspected  of  car- 


76 


JAUNT   TO   THE    ISLAND. 


William  Chambers. 


rying  on  a  correspondence  with  the  British,  but  no  evi- 
dence appeared  against  him.  When,  however,  the 
country  was  overrun  by  the  enemy,  he  remained  at  home 
unmolested  ;  and  he  and  a  few  others,  after  that  period, 
kept  up  a  communication  with  them,  at  Fort  Niagara. 
It  was  not  generally  believed  that  his  intercourse  with 
them  was  of  a  criminal  character.  With  his  neighbors, 
he  passed  as  a  very  easy,  obliging  man,  designing  evil 
to  no  one. 

He  was  one  of  the  pioneers  of  Niagara  county,  and  a 
genuine  leather-stocking.  He  was  among  the  first  that 
opened  the  woods  on  the  lake  shore,  at  Eighteen-mile 
Greek.  He  would  frequently  sell  out,  as  is  usual  with 
persons  of  his  description,  and  realizing  a  small  profit 
on  his  labor,  would  pay  off  his  debts  and  commence 
anew. 

His  last  residence  was  at  Navy  Island,  under  the  juris- 
diction of  Canada  :  his  principal  occupation  was  hunting, 
trapping,  and  fishing.  Grand  Island,  and  the  other 
islands  in  the  river,  abounded  with  game.  The  musk- 
rat  was  the  chief  object  of  pursuit,  being  the  most  nu- 
merous and  affording  the  best  return  ;  coons  were  also 
plenty — the  meat  was  acceptable,  and  the  skins  sold 
readily.  The  mink,  the  fox,  and  the  otter,  afforded  him 
more  valuable  furs.  To  these,  he  occasionally  added  the 
deer,  the  bear,  and  wolf. 

He  had  arrived  to  near  sixty  years  of  age,  when,  one 
very  stormy  night,  in  the  month  of  December,  he  and 
another  person  came  to  a  farm  house,  near  the  river, 
about  seven  miles  above  the  Falls.  They  said  they  had 
been  up  the  river,  and  had  purchased  a  barrel  of  whiskey, 
which  they  had  with  them  in  the  canoe.  They  staid  an 
hour,  and  at  nine  o'clock,  departed.    They  were  advised 


1- 
e 
e 

> 


JAUNT   TO    THE    ISLAND. 


77 


Expedition  to  Navy  Island. 


to  remain  :  the  severity  of  the  storm,  the  darkness  of  the 
night,  and  the  danger  of  the  river,  were  urged  upon 
them  ;  but  Chambers  was  confident  in  his  ability  to  "  get 
over  the  bay.'*  In  one  sense,  he  was  over  it  then,  or 
**  half  seas  over."  They  would  go  :  they  launched  their 
frail  canoe  in  the  rapid  stream  :  for  a  moment  only,  after 
leaving  the  shore,  they  were  distinguishable  —  they  were 
then  lost  in  the  driving  tempest ;  and  men  or  canoe  were 
never  more  heard  of.     They  went  over  the  Falls. 


THE  EXPEDITION  TO  NAVY  ISLAND, 
AND  STEAM -BOAT  CAROLINE. 

*'  Night's  blessed  spell  hath  now 
Lulled  every  sound  of  earth  in  slumber  deep. 

The  sad  heart  hath  awhile  forgot  its  woe  — 
The  weary  frame  its  toil  •,  but  such  sweet  sleep 

Brings  not  il.  balm  to  soothe  this  fevered  brain  and  brow." 


J, 


About  the  middle  of  the  month  of  December,  1837, 
twenty-eight  men,  principally  Canadians,  with  Rens- 
selaer Van  Rensselaer  and  William  Lyon  Mackenzie, 
went  on  Navy  Island.  They  called  to  them  the  patriots 
of  Canada,  and  all  others  the  friends  of  that  cause.  In 
the  space  of  three  weeks,  between  three  and  four  hun- 
dred responded  to  the  call :  some  from  the  United  States, 
and  some  from  Canada.  They  brought  with  them  arma 
and  provisions.  They  staid  on  the  island  for  one  month, 
and  then,  at  their  own  choice,  left  it,  and  not  in  fear  of 
their  opponents.  Opposite  to  them,  were  assembled  five 
thousand  men,  consisting  of  British  regulars,  incorpo- 
rated  militia,  and  a  body  of  Indians  and  Negroes.    Bat- 


n 


78 


JAUNT   TO   THE    ISLAND. 


Stcam-boftt  Caroline. 


teries  were  erected,  and  balls  and  shells  were,  at  inter- 
vals, cast  upon  the  island.  The  islanders  were  inces- 
santly in  a  state  of  danger  and  alarm  ;  yet  they  would,  at 
times,  provokingly  return  the  fire,  still  they  remained 
unattacked.  For  a  month,  a  raw,  undiciplincd  band  of 
men,  in  the  severity  of  winter,  with  no  shelter  but  such 
as  they  then  constructed,  and  miserably  clad,  set  at  de- 
iiance  and  laughed  at  the  overwhelming  force,  which  lay 
j?o  near  to  them,  that  they  frequently  conversed  together. 
Let  justice  bo  done  to  them  ;  and,  however  by  con- 
tending parties  they  may  be  diflerently  esteemed,  there 
must  be  awarded  to  them  the  praise  of  being  as  enduring 
and  as  brave  a  set  of  fellows  as  ever  assembled  together. 
They  left  the  island  because  the  United  States  would  not 
countennnce  them,  and  in  accordance  with  the  wishes  of 
American  citizens,  who  interposed  to  effect  their  disper- 
sion. An  expression  of  one  of  the  leaders,  before  leav- 
ing, was — *'  I  fear  not  my  enemies,  but  my  friends." 

There  is  an  occurrence,  connected  with  the  Navy 
Island  affair,  painful  to  relate. 

The  steam-boat  Caroline  came  from  Buffalo,  on  the 
29th  of  December,  it  was  said,  to  ply  as  a  ferry-boat  be- 
tween Schlosser  and  Navy  Island.  It  passed,  that  day, 
forth  and  back  several  times,  and  before  sun-down  was 
brought  to  at  the  wharf,  at  Schlosser,  and  moored  for  the 
night.  At  that  place,  there  was  but  one  house,  and  that 
a  tavern.  The  warlike  movements  between  the  patriots 
and  British,  had  drawn  to  the  frontier,  through  motives 
of  curiosity,  a  great  number  of  persons.  The  tavern  was 
crowded  —  lodgings  could  not  be  obtained  —  and  several 
persons,  observing  the  steam-boat,  sought  for  acconi- 
modations  on  board,  and  were  received.  In  the  mid- 
dle of  the  night,  the  watch,  for  a  watch  on  board  steam- 


JAUNT   TO    THE    ISLAND. 


79 


IJCKCon  Light. 


boats  is  usually  kept,  saw  something  advancing  on  the 
water.  lie  hailed,  but  before  he  could  give  the  alarm,  a 
body  of  armed  men  rushed  on  board,  shot  at  the  sentinel, 
and  all  they  met,  crying — **  Cut  them  down  !  "  *'  Give 
no  quarters  !  "  No  arms  were  on  board  of  the  boat  ;  no 
t  ack  was  expected ;  and  no  resistance  was  made.  Somr 
g'jt  on  shore  uninjured  ;  othcs  were  severely  cut  and 
dangerously  wounded.  One  man  was  shot  dead  on  the 
wharf,  and  twelve  were  missing,  c'  ther  killed,  or  burnt 
and  sunk  with  the  boat. 

They  towed  the  boat  out  in  the  river,  and  set  it  on 
fire  ;  the  flames  burst  forth  ;  it  drifted  slowly,  and  its 
blaze  shone  far  and  wide  over  the  water  and  adjacent 
shores.  On  the  Canada  side,  at  a  distance  above  Chip- 
pewa, was  burning  a  large  light,  as  a  signal  to  those  en- 
gaged in  the  expedition.  In  a  short  time,  an  astounding 
shout  came  booming  over  the  water  :  it  was  for  the  suc- 
cess and  return  of  those  who  had  performed  this  deed. 

The  beacon  was  extinguished.  The  Caroline  still 
moved  on,  and  cast  its  lurid  light  far  and  wide,  clothing 
the  scene  in  gloom  and  horror  ;  and  just  below  the  point 
of  Iris  Island,  suddenly  disappeared.  Many  of  the 
wrecked  and  charred  remains  were,  the  next  morning, 
floating  in  the  current  and  eddies  below  the  Falls. 

In  justice  to  both  sides,  it  should  be  stated,  that  the 
accounts  of  the  different  parties  connected  with  the  de- 
struction of  the  Caroline,  differ  entirely  from  each  other, 
as  to  the  character  of  the  vessel,  the  resistance  made  by 
the  persons  on  board,  the  number  killed,  and  in  various 
other  particulars.  These  the  author  leaves  to  be  settled 
by  the  politicians  of  the  two  nations.  The  account  which 
he  has  adopted,  is  the  one  first  impressed  upon  the  Ame- 
rican public  :  if  it  is  not  correct,  he  does  not  hold  him- 
self responsible  for  it. 


\ « 


i 


! 


80 


JAUNT   TO   THE    ISLAND. 


Grand  Island. 


OWANUNGA,     OR     GRAND     ISLAND. 

'♦  Here,  lofty  trees,  to  ancient  song  unknown, 
The  noble  sons  of  potent  heat  and  floods." 

This  island  is  twelve  miles  long,  and  between  six  and 
seven  wide.  It  lies  mid- way  between  the  Falls  and  Lake 
Erie,  and  contains  17,000  acres  of  land.  It  is  princi- 
pally covered  with  large  and  valuable  timber,  and  the 
Boil  is  rich  and  productive. 

In  1816  and  17,  a  number  of  persons,  from  the 
United  States  and  Canada,  went  on  this  Island.  They 
marked  out  the  boundaries  of  their  different  possessions  ; 
elected  magistrates,  and  other  officers,  from  among  them- 
selves ;  and  gave  out  that  they  were  amenable  to  neither 
government,  but  on  independent  community.  After  the 
question  of  boundary  was  settled,  the  State  of  New 
York  passed  a  law  to  drive  them  off ;  but  that  was  no^ 
effected  till  the  severe  measure  was  resorted  to,  of  de- 
stroying their  houses,  which  was  done  by  the  sheriff  and 
posse  of  Erie  county. 

Grand  Island  was  selected  by  Major  Noah,  of  New 
York,  on  which  to  build  a  city,  and  establish  a  colony  of 
Jews,  with  the  view  of  making  it  the  Ararat  or  resting 
^lace  of  that  dispersed  people.  There  it  was  anticipated 
that  their  government  would  be  organized,  and  thence 
th6  laws  would  emanate  which  were  again  to  bring  to- 
gether the  children  of  Israel,  and  re-establish  them  as  a 
nation  of  the  earth.  The  European  Rabbi  did  not  sanc- 
tion the  scheme,  and  it  vanished  as  a  day-dream  of  the 
learned  and  worthy  projector. 

A  rich  company,  from  Boston,  have  since  become  the 
proprietors;  and  the  great  improvements  they  have  made, 
evince  a  noble  spirit  of  enterprise. 


JAUNT    TO    THE    ISLAND. 


81 


Burnt  Ship  Creek. 


BUCK-HORN     ISLAND. 


At  the  north-eastern  point  of  Grand  Island,  lies  Buck- 
Horn  Island.  It  is  long  and  narrow,  and  contains  one 
hundred  and  fifty  acres.  It  was  occupied  first  by  David 
Mudget,  a  veteran  ofliicer  of  the  American  Revolution. 
He  made  a  small  improvement ;  but,  obtaining  a  pen- 
sion, in  1819,  he  removed.  It  has  since  been  occupied 
as  a  farm,  by  Mr.  Warren  Kent. 

Burnt  Ship  Cr^ek  lies  between  Buck-Horn  and  Grand 
Island.  In  1759,  the  French,  in  preference  of  their  ves- 
sels falling  into  the  hands  of  the  British,  burnt  them  at 
this  place.  Their  remains  are  yet  observable,  and  con- 
siderable iron  has  been  obtained  from  them  ;  and,  not 
long  since,  some  timber,  sufiiciently  firm  to  work  into 
walking  canes. 

Two  miles  from  the  Falls,  and  near  the  steam-boat 
landing,  is  Corner's  Island. 

Three  miles  further,  and  opposite  Cayuga  Creek,  is 
Cayuga  Island. 

Six  miles  further,  and  opposite  Tonawanda,  is  Tona- 
wanda  Island.  Between  that  and  Lake  Erie,  there  are 
several  others,  of  greater  or  less  magnitude. 

The  next  object  to  which  the  attention  of  the  traveller 
is  directed,  is  Povter's  store-house,  or  the  steam-boat 
landing.  It  is  the  end  of  ship  navigation,  on  the  Ameri- 
can side  of  the  Niagara,  and  is  the  proposed  point  for  the 
commencement  of  the  great  ship  canal,  around  the  Falls  ; 
a  work  which  the  extensive  and  populous  countries  on 
the  upper  lakes  are  requiring,  and  will  urge  forward  un- 
til accomplished. 

6 


82 


JAUNT   TO    THE    ISLAND. 


Fort  ^etiloMscr. — Jaunt  concluded. 


[I'l 


At  this  place,  the  persons  going  on  ilic  Navy  Island 
expedition,  enilmrked  ;  and  it  is  there  that  the  steam- 
boat Caroline  lay,  when  she  was  cut  out. 

Nearly  a  mile  below  the  landing,  are  the  remains  of 
old  Fort  Sjhlosser.  The  name  is  derived  from  the  Ger- 
man, and  neana  rastle.  It  was  anciently  a  stockade, 
built  upon  banks  slightly  raised  above  the  plain.  From 
tlie  remains,  it  appears  that  there  were  two  fortifications 
contiguous  to  each  other,  'md  of  similar  construction. 
In  a  historical  memorandum  and  map,  in  1755,  before 
the  country  was  subdued  by  the  British,  it  is  marked 
'*  Store  House  "  only.  The  site  is  now  a  cultivated 
field,  and  the  grounds  have  been  frequently  ploughed 
over. 


The  party  move  on,  and  pass  the  house  where  Francis 
Abbott  for  some  time  resided,  and  stop  at  a  place  where 
the  earth  has  been  excavated.  Here,  several  human  ske- 
letons have  been  dug  up.  How  they  came  there,  is 
matter  of  conjecture. 

The  enclosure,  which  is  seen  at  the  left,  is  a  garden, 
which  the  proprietors  of  the  island  have  stocked  with  the 
choicest  kinds  of  fruit  trees,  intended,  when  they  arrive 
at  maturity,  for  the  use  of  visiters. 

From  every  part  of  the  upper  end  of  the  island,  a  fine 
view  is  presented  of  the  village  of  Niagara  Falls,  and 
intervening  rapids. 

The  travellers  return  to  the  bridge,  and  the  jaunt 
round  the  island  is  e.  ded. 


is^iitiLj.jA 


_.ss 


I; 


I* 


i^ 


"•T^"*^* 


I 


.■5 


0 


f 


A    JAUNT 


TO  THE 


WHIRLPOOL, 


DEVIL'S    HOLE, 


TUSCARORA  INDIAN  VILLAGE, 


AND 


FORT    NIAGARA. 


II U  mil  II  l«l«Hli|.[Lr..|«ilWH  M  ■■  ■ 


THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


"  Ah !  terribly  they  rage  \ 
The  hoarse  and  rapid  whirlpool's  there  I    My  brain 
Grows  wild :  my  senses  wander,  as  I  gaze 
Upon  the  hurrying  water." 


If  the  Falls  of  Niagara  did  not  exist,  the  Whirlpool 
would  be  the  most  distinguished  curiosity  afforded  by  the 
Niagara  river  ;  and,  in  the  estimation  of  many,  greater 
than  any  of  present  notoriety  in  our  country.  Every 
one,  brought  up  in  or  near  the  city  of  New  York,  must 
be  familiar  with  the  far-famed  and  much  dreaded  strait 
called  Hurl- Gate,  formerly  Hell- Gate.  The  horrors  of 
that  place  are  well  l^nown  to  all  youthful  imaginations, 
and  the  dread  of  the  "  frying-pan  and  pot"  can  hardly 
be  eradicated  by  more  mature  obser^  ation.  But  pass 
once  from  the  East  river  to  the  wild  and  rushing  Whirl- 
pool of  Niagara,  and  the  imaginary  terrors  of  Hurl- 
Gate  will  pass  uway  :  on  your  return,  the  strait  will 
appear  placid,  or  only  seem  agitated  as  with  a  summer's 
breeze. 

Even  the  great  Maelstrom  Whirlpool,  of  Norway,  is 
not  more  dangerous  than  that  of  Niagara  ;  none  have 
passed  the  vortex  of  either,  nor  fathomed  their  depths. 
For  the  satisfaction  of  those  who  visit  the  Whirlpool  of 


ee 


J.\l'NT   TO   THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


Preliminary  notic;. 


iN'iagara,  a  sK-*'  i  description  of  the  Muelstrom  is  inserted 
in  :hi8  work.  It  is  from  the  pen  of  an  Imericaii  gentie- 
mi  n,  who  visited  the  place  he  describes  If  any  travel- 
lers to  the  American  Whirlpool  would  wish  to  experience 
all  the  sensations  of  danger  and  peril  which  came  over 
those  who  passed  the  disk  of  the  Maelstrom,  they  have 
but  to  launch  a  boat  on  the  Niagara,  and  attempt  an  ex- 
cursion, for  examining  more  closely  the  whirling  waters. 
In  so  doing,  they  will  truly  peril  their  lives,  and  feel 
sensations  of  terror,  to  their  hearts'  content  ;  or  the 
waves  of  Niagara  will  make  buoyant  their  bodies,  and 
infuse  courage,  more  than  natural,  in  the  hearts  of  those 
who  ride  over  them. 


OLD     PORTAGE     ROAD. 

"  Bear  me,  Oil  bear  me  to  scquestcr'd  scenes, 
The  bow'ry  mazes,  and  surrounding  greens." 

The  party  at  the  Falls  having  taken  seats  in  the  omni- 
bus, or  having  engaged  a  barouche  or  carriage,  are  on 
their  way  to  the  Whirlpool.  After  riding  one  and  a 
half  miles,  they  come  to  the  junction  of  the  Lewiston 
road  with  the  Niagara  Falls  and  Schlosser  roads.  In 
former  days,  this  road  was  the  great  thoroughfare  be- 
tween the  lower  and  upper  lakes.  When  all  the  sur- 
rounding country  was  wild  and  solitary,  unimproved, 
and  uninhabited  except  by  the  natives  of  the  forest,  this 
road  exhibited  a  scene  of  busy  life.  It  was  crowded  with 
teams,  with  animals  and  men,  and  all  was  activity  and 
animation.  Since  then,  it  has  greatly  changed:  the 
Erie  canal  opened  a  new  communication,  and  the  Wei- 


t 


i 


t 


JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


87 


Gud  Pierce. 


Innd  canni,  in  Canada,  connects  lakes  Erie  and  Ontario. 
Thiitjt  works  have  drawn  the  business  from  the  Portage 
roud  ;  nnd  now,  although  the  country  through  which  it 
{>n«?jOs,  is  improved  and  productive,  it  is  far  more  lonely 

flrau  it  was  in  former  days. 


GAD      PIERCE,     ESQ. 

"  WIio  does  the  uUnost  that  he  can, 
Dues  vv'cM,  —  acts  nobly  :   {m','el9  coiill  no  more." 


,. 


At  the  junction  of  the  Portage  with  the  Niagara  Falls 
road,  was,  8onie  years  since,  kept  the  public  house  of 
Oad  Pierce.  He  was,  in  the  time  of  the  war  with  Great 
Britain,  an  active  frontier  partizan.  When  hostilities 
commenced  between  the  two  countries,  there  was  a  very 
small  number  of  tfoopy  on  the  American  side  of  the 
river,  and  a  single  cOiiipnny  uiily  to  garrison  Fort  Nia- 
gara. It  was  expected,  ev(  rv  night,  that  the  fort  would 
be  attacked  ny  the  British,  who  had  n  large  body  of  men 
*rit  F  )rt  George.  Mr.  Picrc^,  nware  of  this  state  of  things, 
one  dry  raiL^ed  all  the  inhtoirants  of  tlio  country,  far  and 
neir,  —  young  and  old.  Tlie  country  was  then  thinly 
populated,  and  they  assensb'ed  at  Lewiston  from  several 
miles  distant.  Hordes  of  every  kind  were  brought  into 
requisition,  and  when  the  cifizcns  were  mounted,  they 
appc:ircd  at  a  distance  like  a  forr.iiduble  troop  of  cavalry. 
Among  them,  too,  were  seven)  of  thf^  Tuscarora  Indi- 
ans, who  entered  with  spi'it  into  the  maneuvre.  In  the 
place  of  swor.'ls,  lliey  used  walking  canes,  st'cks,  and 
ramrods.  Several  of  the  ramrods  were  of  polished  steel 
or  iron,  wliich  made  a  very  bright  and  flashy  appearance. 


88 


JAUNT   TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


1^ 


A  cavalcade. — An  attack. 


The  cavalcade  moved  from  Lewiston,  along  the  river 
road,  in  eight  of  the  enemy,  and  entered  Fort  Niagara  ; 
the  blankets  of  the  Indians  fluttering  in  the  wind,  and 
the  many-colored  and  various  habiliments  of  the  farmers  ; 
the  limping  and  over-strained  plough  horse  ;  the  nibbling 
gait  and  twitching  head  of  the  wild  pouy  ;  with  now  and 
then  a  noble  horse  of  the  Pennsylvania  breed  ;  formed, 
to  those  who  were  near,  a  most  ludicrous  spectacle.  In 
the  fort,  they  dismounted,  nnd  performed  some  slight 
evolutions  in  the  most  laughable  style.  At  the  command 
to  mount,  some  of  the  Indians  executed  the  order  in 
su«h  a  masterly  manner,  as  to  throw  themselves  entirely 
over  their  ponies.  To  the  British,  the  imposing  appear- 
ance of  the  troops,  with  their  steel  ramrods,  which  glit- 
tered in  the  sun  like  broadswords,  had  the  desired  effect : 
the  contemplated  attack  was  not  made. 

At  the  time  of  the  general  invasion  of  the  frontier,  Mr- 
Pierce  had  his  family  conveyed  to  a  place  of  security,  but 
would  not  himself  quit  his  premises.  He,  and  tlnee  or 
four  others,  formed  the  little  garrison,  with  which  he 
determined  to  defend  his  house.  They  waited  foi'  the 
approach  of  the  enemy.  At  length,  a  company  of  British 
regulars  appeared  in  sight,  and  a  fire  was  opened  upon 
them.  They  continued  the  defence  for  some  time  ;  bin, 
as  their  opponents  were  numerous,  it  was  impracticable 
to  keep  them  at  a  distance.  A  part  advanced  upon  the 
front  of  the  house,  succeeded  in  breaking  down  the  door, 
and  fired  their  pieces  as  they  entered.  The  defenders 
effected  their  escape  in  an  opposite  direction,  without  an 
individual  of  their  number  being  wounded.  Wheihcv 
the  attacking  party  suffered  any  loss,  wis  not  known. 


,t 


JAUNT   TO   THE   WHIRLPOOL. 


89 


Mineral  spring. 


i 


MINERAL      SPRING. 

Two  miles  from  the  Falls,  a  small  open  building, 
painted  white,  with  Grecian  columns,  is  pointed  out  by 
the  guide,  as  one  of  the  works  of  Benjamin  Rathbun. 
It  stands  between  the  road  and  the  river,  and  is  placed 
over  a  mineral  spring.  The  spring  is  sulphurous,  and 
the  water,  it  is  said,  very  much  resembles  that  of  Har- 
rowgate,  in  England.  In  rheumatic  and  scrofulous  di- 
seases, it  has  been  used  to  advantage,  in  several  cases  ; 
and  it  only  requires  interested  and  suitable  eftbrts,  to 
give  it  celebrity  and  favor  with  the  public.  The  situa- 
tion, too,  is  very  plerisant,  and  a  distinct  view  of  the 
Falls  is  obtained  from  tike  road  —  the  view  which  Capt. 
Bazil  Hall  so  much  admired,  and  which  so  vividly,  he 
says,  remained  fixed  upon  his  mind.  After  all,  to  Rath- 
bun  must  be  awarded  the  credit  of  having  a  very  sound 
judgment  in  making  his  purchases.  He  selected  the 
most  choice  and  valuable  situations  ;  and,  had  it  not 
been  for  his  unfortunate  aberration  from  the  path  of  rec- 
titude, his  high  expectations,  as  to  value,  would  have 
been  realized. 

Traveller. — *'  Is  the  property  still  his  ?  " 
Guide. —  *'  It  has  gone  with  the  general  wreck  of  his 
estate  ;  and  it  now  belongs  to  the  gentleman  of  whom  it 
was  first  purchased." 


As  the  party  roll  along  the  road,  they  desire  of  the 
Guide,  a  description  of  the  Whirlpool,  Tie  complies 
with  the  request. 


90 


JAUNT   TO   THE   WHIRLPOOL. 


Description  of  the  Whirlpool. 


THE       WHIRLPOOL. 

♦*  Im;iginn*tion,  b.'^ri*^',  strives  in  vain! 
The  wildest  Htrciuns  tli;it  ever  poet?  f^ign, 
Thou  (lost  tiiinscend  !    There  is  no  i)owcr  in  song 
To  paint  the  wojuiers  tJuit  r.roiuid  nie  throng!  " 


i 


ti  ;i 


This  grand  and  beautiful  scene  is  three  miles  from  the 
Falls  of  Niagara,  and  four  miles  from  the  village  of 
Lewiston. 

Standing  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Niagara,  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  feet  above  the  river,  you  behold  at  a  dis- 
tance the  advancing  waters  ;  not  mild  and  gentle,  but 
agitated,  rushing,  and  roaring,  with  deafening  sound, 
they  hurry  on.  They  come,  in  all  their  power  :  majes- 
tic, solitary,  and  alone.  No  vessel,  or  work  of  man's 
formation,  floats  on  the  raging  torrent :  nothing  of  life 
rides  over  the  resistless  waves,  or  floats  unscathed  on 
the  mist-crowned  billows.  This  mighty  flood  is  more 
lonely  and  mysterious  than  the  solitary  ocean.  Man 
passes  with  comparative  security  over  the  vasty  deep  ; 
but,  on  these  waters,  living,  he  must  not :  ho  is  power- 
less. They  rage,  in  their  solitude,  alone, —  for  ever  ; 
and  man  cnn  only  behold  them  with  emotions  of  awe, 
and  reverence  that  Almighty  Power  ''  who  weighs  the 
hills  in  a  balance,  and  holds  the  waters  of  the  ocean  in 
the  hollow  of  his  hand." 

Still  forward,  in  wave  after  wave,  rushes  the  resist- 
less flood  ;  and  all  that  floats  therein,  is  peeled,  dis- 
membered and  crushed.  If  an  object  is  beheld,  it  is  but 
for  a  moment  :  swiftly  it  passes  the  hollow  of  the  crested 
waves  —  rises  amid  the  feathery  mist  —  and  then,  again, 


JAUNT   TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


91 


\ 


Frnj^meiUa  of  vessels. 


in  an  instant,  plunged  below.  It  remains  for  some  time 
immergcd  from  sight ;  and,  if  it  again  appears,  it  will 
bo  still  more  wrecked  and  broken. 

The  river  widens,  opposite  tlie  spectator  ;  and,  on  the 
Canada  side,  a  counter  current,  equal  to  the  main  chan- 
nel, rushes  up  the  stream.  A  large  basin  of  warring 
water  is  presented  to  the  eye  of  the  rapt  beholder.  He 
sees  the  great  Niagara,  pouring  therein  the  accumulated 
waters  of  a  thousand  rivers  and  lakes,  and  driving,  with 
irresistible  in.pctuosity,  against  the  rocky  shore  of  Cana- 
da ;  and  the  counter  current,  with  equal  power,  passing 
in  an  opposite  direction.  With  absorbing  interest,  he 
observes,  between  the  contending  currents,  the  deep  en- 
gulfing eddies,  and  the  yawning  whirlpool.  There  he 
sees  huge  masses  of  timber,  dismembered  trees,  the  frag- 
ments of  vessels  and  water  craft,  the  wrecks  of  all  that 
has  passed  the  Falls  or  the  cataracts  of  the  river  above. 
They  go  round,  and  round  ;  they  gradually  approach  the 
centre  ;  then  they  are  drawn  in,  and  are  swallowed  up 
in  the  deep  vortex  of  the  stream.  After  a  while,  at  a 
distant  point,  they  are  propelled  upward,  and  again  re- 
new their  circuit,  and  again  are  drawn  below.  Some- 
times trees,  and  logs,  are  ejected  upwards  with  so  much 
violence,  as  to  raise  one  end  several  feet  perpendicularly 
above  the  water.  Objects  drawn  in  the  Whirlpool,  have 
been  known  to  remain  there  for  several  weeks. 

The  whole  expanse  of  water  lies  below  the  spectator  ; 
his  eye  seems  to  take  in  the  whole  scene  ;  and  no  open- 
ing or  outlet  for  this  vast  and  constantly  increasing  flood, 
is  observed.  Sometimes,  travellers,  who,  in  past  years, 
visited  this  place  without  a  guide,  returned  disappointed. 
They  did  not  see  the  Whirlpool  at  all  ;  but,  mistaking  a 
rapid  portion  of  the  Niagara,  something  similar  in  ap- 


92 


JAUNT   TO   THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


New  view. 


pearancc,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  above,  their  expectations 
of  the  magnitude  and  interest  of  the  scene,  were  not  an- 
swered. Others  have  seen  the  Whirlpool,  but  not  all 
about  it  ;  not  having  turned  the  point,  to  feast  their  eyes 
upon  the  fine  and  noble  view  of  the  rel  eating  waters, 
or  not  having  descended  the  bank,  to  the  edge  of  the 
stream,  as  it  thunders  along. 

The  traveller  should  pass  a  few  paces  to  the  north,  and 
at  the  turn  of  a  point  near  the  brink  of  the  precipice,  di- 
rect his  attention  beneath.  There  he  beholds,  what  at 
first  appears  a  small,  dark  and  heavy  stream  ;  like  some 
deep  and  narrow  mountain  torrent  ;  but  unlike  the  great 
Niagara,  so  much  the  object  of  admiration.  For  some 
moments,  the  illusion  is  complete.  The  Whirlpool  and 
its  foaming  eddies  —  its  deep  gulfs  and  encircling  waves, 
are,,iiiL4brgot ;  and  the  imagination  is  seized  with  rapture 
aiid  surprise,  at  this  unexpected  and  newly  discovered 
scene.  He  advances  —  the  reality  is  discovered  :  this  is, 
indeed,  the  Niagara,  escaping,  as  it  were,  from  its  prison 
house.  The  charm  is  not  immediately  dissolved  ;  the 
great  river  is  contracted  to  a  very  span  ;  the  opposite 
shore  of  Canada  is  v\'ithin  a  stone's  throw  ;  and  the  deep 
waters  are  literally  poured  out  from  the  broad  basin  of 
the  Whirlpool.  The  inquiring  traveller,  with  mind  un-  J 
sated  with  what  he  has  seen,  and  desiring  to  behold  more 
of  the  wonders  of  nature,  will  descend  the  precipitous 
bank,  when  new  views  will  be  presented,  alike  interest- 
ing and  exciting. 

When  the  waters  are  at  their  usual  height,  the  visiter 
can,  where  the  river  disgorges  from  the  Wiiirlpool,  walk 
out  from  the  shelving  bank,  to  the  very  verge  of  the  pas- 
sing torrent.  He  can  there,  if  his  nerves  are  steady  and 
strong,  dip  his  hands  or  bathe  his  feet  in  the  deep,  green,- 


7 


\ 


JAUNT   TO   THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


93 


Suspension  brUlffv.. 


flood  thtit  rushes  nl< 


but, 


impetuous  flood  tlitit  rusfies  along  ;  but,  to  do  so,  nc 
must  1)0  firm,  or,  at  beholding  th  dvnncing  waters, 
hearing  their  astounding  roar,  and  glancing  at  the  fluc- 
tuant current,  the  liead  may  become  dizzy,  and,  like 
other  daring  unfortunates,  he  may  fall  a  victim  to  the 
dark  and  troubled  waters  of  Niagara.  The  more  wary 
traveller  will  retreat  a  few  yards,  and  try  his  strength  to 
cast  a  stone  to  reach  the  opposite  shore  of  Canada  ;  a  feat 
which  has  been  done  by  the  sinewy  sons  of  the  farmers 
of  Niagara. 

The  Whirlpool  is  a  place  combining  many  objects  to 
interest  ;  but,  at  times,  the  spectacle  is  not  alike  impo- 
fiing.  When  the  water  is  at  its  usual  height,  or  rather 
lower,  the  eddies  and  vortices  are  the  largest,  and  the 
scene  then  appears  to  the  best  advantage.  After  a  storm, 
when  bridges  have  been  carried  ofl",  vessels  shipwrecked, 
boats  torn  away  from  their  fastenings,  and  trees  and  logs 
swept  down  from  the  upper  lake,  then  all  tlie  terrors  of 
the  place  are  presented,  and  it  is  only  inferior  to  the  great 
cataract  of  Niagara.  The  two  scenes  are  alike  the  result 
of  the  stupendous  congregation  of  waters,  which  irre- 
sistibly passes  through  the  mountain  gorge,  from  Schlos- 
ser  to  Lewiston  ;  but  there  is  no  similitude  existing  be- 
tween them. 

At  the  outlet  of  the  Whirlpool,  the  banks  of  the  Nia- 
gara river  approach  each  other  nearer  than  at  any  other 
point ;  and  if  a  suspension  bridge  should  ever  be  erected 
over  the  Niagara,  nature  seems  to  have  designated  this 
spot  as  being  the  most  suitable,  as  it  is  here  the  most 
practicable. 


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WEBSTER,  N.Y.  M580 

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94 


JAUNT    TO   THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


The  prospcit. 


Having  arrived  at  the  grounds  on  the  east  side  of  the 
Whirlpool,  a  gate  is  opened,  and  a  private  carriage  road 
leads  to  the  b?)nk  of  the  river,  which  is  distant  half  a  mile 
from  the  main  road.  Before  coming  in  sight  of  the  river, 
the  road  enters  a  bowery  of  forest  trees,  the  close  and 
luxuriant  foliage  of  which  forms  a  cool  and  sombrous 
shade,  very  refreshing  to  travellers,  in  the  prevailing 
heats  of  summer. 

Two  buildings,  the  one  a  summer-house,  the  other  a 
refectory,  mark  the  place  at  which  the  party  are  to  alight. 
Preceded  by  the  guide,  they  advance  to  the  bank  of  the 
river. 

One  of  the  party  inquires — *'  Where  is  the  Whirl- 
pool ?  " 

Guide. — ''This  is  the  place.  From  this  point,  you 
perceive  the  waters  approaching,  with  great  velocity. 
They  pass  before  us,  towards  the  shore  of  Canada  ; 
then  they  divide,  part  passes  off  to  the  right,  but  a  large 
portion  is  propelled  back,  forming  the  counter  current  ; 
between  that  and  the  main  channel,  are  the  eddies  and 
the  Whirlpool." 

Traveller. — ''Observe  those  logs  and  trees,  how  they 
are  hurried  round." 

Guide. — "  By  looking  through  this  prospect-glass, 
you  will  distinguish  more  plainly  the  logs  and  timber  ; 
which,  from  the  distance  we  are  from  them,  to  the  naked 
eye  appear  quite  small.  With  this,  you  will  also  per- 
ceive the  magnitude  of  the  vortex  around  which  they  are 
carried.  To  view  the  Whirlpool  advantageously,  a  glass 
should  always  be  used." 

The  lady  who  first  used  the  glass,  confirmed  the  re- 
commendation of  the  guide,  by  saying — "  It  is,  indeed, 
a  very  great  help.  I  could  not  have  formed  a  right  con- 
ception of  the  Whirlpool,  without  its  use." 


JAUiNT    TO   THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


95 


The  outlet. 


"  Tliesc  are,  ivs  the  boiling  waves  tliat  whirling  vortex 
near, 

Sucke  1  far  mlown  itf^  darkling  depths  their  waters  dis- 
appear." 

After  contemplating  the  prospect  for  some  time,  with 
much  satisfaction,  inquiry  is  made — **  What  course 
does  the  river  take,  from  this  ?  " 

The  guide  leads  the  w^ay,  saying — **  We  will  advance 
a  short  distance.     Now  look  below." 

Traveller. — "  Saint  Mary  !   what  a  scene  is  this  !  " 

One  of  the  ladies. — "  How  beautiful  and  clear,  and 
yet  how  powerful  and  rapid  !  With  what  commotion  it 
bounds  away  !     Js  this  a  branch  of  the  Niagara  ?  " 

Another  lady. — "  I  hope  that  we  walk  not  on  en- 
chanted ground.  The  object  before  me  is  so  unexpected, 
so  new,  that  I  am  charmed  with  the  view  ;  though  I 
grow  dizzy  in  looking  down  to  the  deep  chasm  which 
opens  before  me." 

Guide. — '■  Still  move  a  few  steps  closer  to  the  bank, 
and  you  will  perceive  that  the  stream  below  is  truly  the 
Niagara.  Its  sudden  turn,  the  contraction  of  the  chan- 
nel, the  high  and  approaching  banks,  and  the  dark  and 
swelling  water  of  the  outlet,  strikes  every  one  with  sen- 
sations of  admiration." 

Traveller. — **  Tasteless  to  the  marvellous  and  sur- 
prising beauties  of  nature  would  he  be,  who  can  be- 
hold these,  her  noble  works,  without  emotion." 

*'  Nature  here 
Wantons  in  her  prime,  and  plays  at  will 
Her  virgin  fancies." 

Guide. — ''  These  are  the  points  spoken  of,  as  being 
practicable  to  cormect  together  by  a  suspension  bridge. 


96 


JAUNT    TO   THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


Stone  thrown  to  Canjida. 


Ill  ' 


II  1 


i     < 


F 


Though  the  inhabitants  of  Lewiston  and  Queenstown 
have  companies  incorporated  for  that  purpose,  and  seri- 
ously contemplate  to  build  a  bridge  to  join  their  villages, 
yet  the  distance  across  the  river,  at  Lewiston,  is  much 
further  than  here." 

As  nearly  all  the  travellers,  that  visit  the  Whirlpool, 
descend  the  bank,  and  consider  themselves  well  paid  for 
the  trouble,  the  party  conclude  to  go  down. 

The  guide  leads  the  way,  and  with  some  labor  and 
exertion,  though  not  more  than  is  healthy  exercise,  they 
descend.  He  conducts  them  to  the  Smith  Rock,  against 
which  dashes  the  powerful  and  resistless  current. 

*' Here,"  he  observes,  '*  a  young  man,  by  the  name 
of  Samuel  Whitner,  of  this  township,  threw  a  stone 
that  struck  the  Canada  shore." 

Several  of  the  party,  being  disposed  to  try  their  skill 
and  strength,  make  the  same  attempt.  Whether  they 
succeed  or  not,  has  not  been  reported. 

Traveller. — "  I  think  I  have  seen  it  mentxoned  in 
some  publication,  that  there  is  a  cave  near  the  Whirl- 
pool.    If  worthy  of  notice,  we  will  visit  it." 

The  guide  acknowledges  that  he  is  ignorant  of  its  lo- 
cation ;  that  he  knew  but  one  person  who  had  visited  it, 
and  his  account  was  very  vague  and  unsatisfactory  ; 
stating  that  he  entered  but  a  short  distance  in  the  cave  ; 
that  it  was  very  dark,  and  that  he  did  not  like  to  go  in 
alone.  The  same  person  also  said,  that  he  observed, 
near  the  cave,  many  valuable  mineral  specimens  ;  and, 
that  spot  not  having  been  visited  by  travellers,  he  thought 
more  minerals  might  bo  picked  up,  than  at  any  other 
place.  The  cave,  he  said,  was  about  30  rods  up  the 
river  from  the  path  that  depcends  the  bank.  The  guide 
expresses  a  desire  to  lead  the  party  in  that  direction,  and 


J 


Vi. 


i 


JAUNT   TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


97 


Improvements  proposed. 


explore  it  out ;  but,  the  route  appearing  very  difficult, 
the  ofTer  is  declined. 

The  almost  impenetrability  of  the  trees  and  bushes, 
the  rocks  hanging  dangerously  above,  and  the  necessity 
of  climbing  and  again  descending  many  steep  and  for- 
bidding passes,  have,  as  yet,  prevented  a  full  explora- 
tion of  this  place  ;  but,  the  grounds  around  the  Whirl- 
pool having  come  into  the  occupation  of  Mr.  Walter  E. 
Hulett,  a  most  public-spirited  man,  it  will  be  different 
for  the  future.  He  intends  making  the  descent  down  the 
bank  more  convenient,  to  examine  the  whole  vicinity, 
to  remove  obstacles  that  impede  the  movements  of 
visiters,  and,  without  affecting  the  wild,  romantic  aspect, 
yet,  to  make  every  place  accessible  that  visiters  may  de- 
sire to  view.  Heretofore,  no  person  has  resided  near 
the  Whirlpool,  and  there  was  no  accommodation  or  pro- 
vision for  the  comfort  of  travellers.  Mr.  Hulett  intends 
to  establish  such  accommodations,  as  will  make  the  place 
in  all  respects  agreeable  for  a  more  protracted  stay,  to 
those  who  may  desire  to  tarry,  than  has  heretofore  been 
the  case. 

One  of  the  party  expresses  some  surprise,  that  this 
water  power  has  not  been  brought  into  use  ;  *'  the  rapids, 
though  larger,  are  similar  to  those  above  the  Falls,  and 
they  may  be  controlled  in  the  same  way." 

Guide. — ^'The  hill,  or  high  bank,  appears  to  be  the 
only  obstacle." 

Traveller. — That,  now,  is  of  but  little  consequence, 
as  power  may  be  used  at  almost  any  distance,  by  means 
of  the  elasticity  of  the  air,  confined  and  conveyed  in  cast 
iron  pipes." 


i 


98 


JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


Keturn  to  the  upper  bunk. 


M 


Some  of  the  party  seek  for  new  and  strange  plants, 
for  thia  place,  like  Iris  Island,  produces  many  varieties, 
not  readily  found  in  other  parts  of  the  country. 

"  And  midst  the  craggy  pilea  and  boulders,  here, 

AVild  plants  and  trees,  with  verdant  tops,  appear; 

Uncommon  herbs,  peculiar  to  the  plfice, 

Peep  through  the  fissures,  and  the  prospe^it  grace. 

Here  tlie  sage  botanist  delight?!  to  stay. 

And  in  deep  study  wile  the  thne  av/ay. 

Having  spent  an  hour  below  the  bank,  in  rambling 
over  the  rocks,  and  engraving  their  names  upon  the 
trees,  they  retrace  their  steps.  Arriving  at  the  top  of 
the  hill,  they  proceed  along  the  upper  bank,  for  a  quar- 
ter of  a  mile  or  more.  Here  are  presented  some  noble 
views  of  the  formidable  river,  driving  furiously  along. 

"  Thou  seestnot  all:  but  piecemeal  thou  must  break 

To  separate  contemplation,  the  great  whole; 

And,  as  the  ocean  many  bays  will  make, 

That  ask  the  eye,  so,  here,  condense  thy  soul 

To  more  immediate  olijects,  and  control 

Thy  thoughts,  until  thy  mind  hath  got,  by  heart. 

Its  eloquent  proportions,  and  unrol, 

In  mighty  graduations,  part  by  part. 

The  glory  which,  at  once,  upon  thee  did  not  dart." 


Having  traversed  the  shore,  till  wearied  with  the  walk, 
they  return  to  the  summer-house,  where  they  seat  and 
rest  themselves.  While  enjoying  the  cool  retreat,  and 
the  beauty  of  the  prospect,  the  conversation  is  still  on 
the  scene  before  them.  One  inquires  —  '' Do  you  not 
suppose  it  possible  to  cross  the  river,  here,  in  safety  1  *' 

The  guide  replies  —  ''No  one  has  ever  thought  it 
possible  ;  though  a  life  boat  has  been  spoken  of,  and,  if 


,1 

] 


f 


I 


d 

(I 
n 

)t 

it 
if 


JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


99 


Maelstrojn,  of  iVorway. 


obtained,  there  is  a  person  at  the  Falls,  by  the  name  of 
Joel  R.  Robinson,  a  most  skilful  waterman,  who  would 
not  hesitate  to  attempt  it." 

To  which,  another  gentleman  adds  —  '*  With  such  a 
boat,  no  doubt,  it  might  be  accomplished.  While  look- 
ing at  the  Whirlpool,  of  Niagara  river,  my  thoughts 
have  been  drawn  to  the  Maelstrom,  of  Norway  ;  con- 
trasting the  two  together,  to  discover  if  there  is  any  re- 
semblance between  them  ;  but  I  find  none."  An  Ame- 
rican gentleman,  who  sailed  along  the  edge  of  the  Mael- 
strom, says —  ''  The  waves  foamed  around  us  in  every 
form.  The  sensations  I  experienced,  are  difficult  to  de- 
scribe. Imagine  to  your  yourself  an  immense  circle, 
moving  round,  of  a  diameter  of  one  and  a  half  miles, 
the  velocity  increasing  as  it  approximates  towards  the 
centre,  and  gradually  changing  its  dark  blue  color  to 
white  —  foaming,  tumbling,  rushing  to  the  vortex  — 
very  much  concave,  as  much  so  as  the  water  in  a  tunnel 
when  half  run  out ;  the  noise,  too,  hissing,  roaring, 
dashing  —  all  pressing  on  the  mind  at  once  —  presented 
the  most  awful,  grand,  and  solemn  sight  I  ever  beheld. 
It  is  evidently  a  subterranean  passage.  From  its  mag- 
nitude, I  should  not  doubt,  but  that  instant  destruction 
would  be  ths  fate  of  a  dozen  of  our  largest  ships,  if  they 
were  drawn  in  the  same  moment." 

A  lady  remarks — ''As  to  the  foaming,  tumbling, 
dashing,  and  roaring,  our  eyes  and  ears  must  witness 
that  the  scene  before  us  cannot  be  surpassed  ;  but  the 
great  peculiarity  of  the  Maelstrom,  the  tunnel-like  ap- 
pearance, is  not  found  here  ;  still,  of  all  the  beautiful 
and  romantic  places  along  Niagara's  stream,  nature's 
matchless  handiwork,  this  spot  comes  most  up  to  my 
estimation  of  the  picturesque,  combined  with  the  grand 
and  solemn." 


100 


JAUNT   TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


Heiijiiiiiiit  Iluthbuii. 


Ti 


laveller. — **  If  the  improvements  were  made,  of" 
which  the  'ace  is  susceptible,  it  would  iiifike  a  beautiful 
country  retreat.  The  grounds,  west  of  the  road,  1  would 
enclose  as  a  park  ;  the  forest  part  should  be  cleared  of 
the  under-growth;  leaving  here  and  there,  dense  as  it 
now  is,  a  clump  of  indigenous  shrubs  and  plants,  as  im- 
pervious as  nature  has  reared  them.  The  whole  should 
be  intersected  with  roads  and  walks  ;  steps,  also,  to  de- 
scend the  bank  ;  a  bathing  and  fishing  house  ;  a  life-boat 
on  the  river  ;  and  a  suspension  bridge,  from  bank  to 
bank.  The  water  power  should  be  brought  into  use,  in 
carrying  on  mills  and  manufactories  ;  and  my  cottage 
should  be  in  the  midst  of  the  active  and  rural  scClIC." 

Guide. — '*  To  which  could  be  added  a  view  of  the 
Falls,  at  a  distance,  if  the  woods  on  yon  point  of  land  at 
the  south,  in  Canada,  were  cut  down.  This  place  was 
one  of  the  favorite  purchases  of  Rathbun,  and  on  which 
he  very  justly  placed  a  high  value.  It  was  he  who  erected 
this  summer-house,  and  the  other  building  which  you 
observe.  It  was  his  design  to  carry  into  effect  many  of 
the  improvements  which  you  have  just  mentioned. 


iM 


BENJAMIN     RATHBUN. 

"  Say,  why  wc  strive  a  lustrous  name  to  ^^".in, 
And  live  in  fame,  for  vain  ambition's  sake?  " 


f^i? 


As  there  is,  at  almost  every  important  point  in  this 
vicinity,  some  work  remaining  of  the  taste  and  enter- 
prise of  this  individual,  of  so  much  notoriety, —  and  so 
many  inquiries  are  made  relative  to  him,  it  is  proper  to 
give  to  the  public  such  notices  as  have  come  to  the  know- 


JAUNT    TO    THE    WTIIRLPOOL. 


101 


I 


Tii.\  cMi-keopcr,  incrcliaiit,  jiihI  hanker. 


ledge  of  ihe  author.  Perhaps  no  more  strong  delusion 
ever  came  over  the  public  mind,  as  to  any  man,  than 
prevailed  in  reference  to  Ilathbun. 

In  1810,  he  kept  a  pubiic-house  at  Sherburne,  in  the 
state  of  New  York.  Near  his  tavern,  he  had  a  store  of 
i^ooda  :  he  also  issued  notes,  as  a  private  banker.  His 
store  v^as  fitted  up  in  a  superior  style,  and  the  interior 
of  his  puhlic-house  was  really  a  inodel,  and  the  admin  - 
tion  of  travellers.  It  was  much  in  advance,  in  appearance 
and  in  general  accommodations,  over  the  other  public- 
houses  of  the  country. 

He  soon  after  failed  ;  and,  much  reduced,  he  sought 
for  employment  in  another  part  of  the  country.  It  is 
stated,  that  the  relations  of  Mrs.  Rathbun  proposed  that 
she  should  return  to  them,  her  husband  being  alike  bank- 
rupt in  property  and  character  ;  but  she  declined  the 
offer,  preferring  to  share  adversity  as  well  as  prosperity 
with  the  HK.n  of  her  choice.  He  first  came  to  Niagara 
Falls,  and  proposed  to  get  a  public-house  built  for  his 
Gccupatior  there  ;  but,  relinquishing  that  idea,  he  suc- 
ceeded in  obtaining  charge  of  the  Eagle  Tavern,  at  Buf- 
falo. Under  his  management,  the  reputation  of  that 
house  was  soon  raised  from  a  very  low  state,  to  one  of 
the  highest  character.  He  enlarged  the  buildings,  and 
erected  adjoining  ones.  Every  thing  he  did,  was  in  good 
style.  As  a  landlord,  he  became  eminent ;  all  that  called 
on  hiiii,  were  pleased,  and  commended  him  to  others. 
His  bar  was  said  to  be  stocked  with  the  choicest  wines  ; 
his  table  was  abundant  ;  his  beds,  the  best  evidence  of  a 
well  kept  house,  every  thing  the  weary  traveller  could 
desire  ;  and  his  servants  were  the  most  attentive  and 
obliging.  It  was,  in  those  days,  a  luxury  to  be  a  guest 
at   the   Eagle   Tavern.      The  citizens  of  Bufialo   were 


102 


III  (11 


■'I 


i 


JAUNT   TO    THE    WHIRLroOL. 


Kntlihun  — ciirecr  heiriin. 


proud  of  such  n  public-house,  nnd  of  such  a  hmdlord  ; 
and  well  they  niii,dit :  he  wns  a  credit  to  the  calling  in 
which  he  was  engaged,  nnd  was  an  honor  to  the  place. 

While  his  hotel  was  so  well  conducted,  many  were 
his  guests  that  came  and  went  away,  wiilioiit  seeing  the 
landlord,  to  know  him  ;  yet  were  delighted  with  his 
house,  lie  moved  through  it  quietly  and  unobtrusively, 
directing  about  every  thing,  and  seeing  to  the  comfort 
and  accommodation  of  his  company,  without  their 
notice. 

To  Benjamin  Rathbun,  more  than  any  other  man,  the 
public,  in  every  portion  of  the  United  States,  are  mainly 
indebted,  for  raising  the  standing  and  character  of  our 
public-houses  to  their  present  splendid  condition. 

In  1831,  he  was  employed  to  build  the  banking-house 
of  the  United  States  Branch  Bank,  at  Butlalo.  He  had 
been  rapidly  gaining  in  character  and  credit  ;  and  h^ 
now  fairly  commenced  on  the  extraordinary  career  which 
he  afterwards  run.  Having  correct  ideas,  as  to  build- 
ings and  improvements,  he  met  with  ready  encourage- 
ment from  an  enterprising  people.  First,  he  erected 
houses  for  others,  on  contract  ;  then  he  gradually  com- 
menced to  buy  lands,  and  build  for  himself.  As  he  made 
improvements  upon  the  lands  he  purchased,  every  new 
acquisition,  as  soon  as  it  was  known  to  be  in  his  hands, 
rose  in  value,  and  carried  up  all  the  property  in  the 
neighborhood.  Hence  arose  the  great  Buffalo  specula- 
tions, which  crazed  the  head  of  every  body.  He  was 
extoiied  for  his  superior  discernment  and  capability  for 
business.  It  was  said,  **  His  affairs  went  like  clock- 
work." **  He  has  a  most  perfect  system."  '*  He 
knows  the  value  of  property  better  than  any  man  in  Buf- 
falo."    Whenever  he  fixed  his  eye  favorably  upon  any 


I 


JAUNT  TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


103 


itatlibun  —  heavy  (>i)erjitions. 


spot,  Hpcculntors  were  nlivc  to  overbid  him,  nnd  obtain 
the  bargain.  The  inhabitants  of  the  eurruumhng,  and 
even  distant  viUages,  courted  his  acquaintance,  and  bo- 
licitcd  him  to  make  purchases  among  them  ;  for  the 
fact  of  his  making  a  purchase  in  any  place,  was  at  once 
the  cause  of  property  advancing  to  doul)Ic  and  treble  its 
former  vniuc.  At  length,  he  was  called  **  the  mighty 
operator,"  *' the  Girard  of  the  West"  ;  and,  it  was 
added,  "  Buffalo  will  erect  a  statue  to  his  memory." 
**  He  has  laid  his  hands  on  the  most  valuable  property 
in  the  city  and  country."  "  He  is  worth  more  than  two 
millions  of  dollars."  Some  few  had  apprehensions  that 
his  condition  would  not  turn  out  so  well,  and  hinted, 
that,  after  all,  he  n^.ight  fail.  **  No,  he  wont  fail," 
would  be  the  reply,  "and  if  he  should,  the  people  of 
Buffalo  will  sustain  him."  The  wisest  and  soundest 
men  in  the  community  sank  beneath  him  in  the  public 
estimation  ;  and  even  such,  seemed  to  have  parted  with 
their  wits,  as  they  fell  in  his  train,  lauded  his  talents, 
favored  his  magnificent  undertakings,  and  certified  as  to 
his  success.  He  was  flooded  with  the  offers  of  property, 
of  bargains,  and  of  plans  and  enterprises.  No  impor- 
tant work  could  go  forward  without  his  aid,  as  one  of 
the  proprietors,  or  managers.  His  name  was  considered 
as  a  sanction  —  the  guarantee  of  successful  operation. 
The  multiplicity  of  his  business  became  such,  that  those 
who  called  on  him  could  have  but  so  much  of  his  time  ; 
and  the  highest  in  society  thought  it  no  disparagement 
to  run  round  the  city  after  him,  and  then  wait  their  turn 
to  address  him.  Now  it  was  said  **  He  can  do  any 
thing."     **  He  hath  the  power  of  a  sultan." 

During  his  whole  career,  he  lived  in  good,  but  not 
Ostentatious  style.     Sometimes  a  party  would  be  got  up, 


t 


104 


JAUNT   TO   THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


Itntlibun  —  his  chnrncter. 


of  the  fnshionablcs,  to  no  to  the  FalU 


that 


the 


case. 

would  be  a  little  more  show.  The  carriage,  or  sleigh, 
that  carried  his  fanuly,  would  be  the  richest,  the  harness 
the  most  elegant,  and  the  horses  the  most  noble  ;  his 
whole  equipage  outshining  all  the  rest.  And  why  should 
it  not  have  been  so  ?  All  others  sunk  themselves  to 
pigmies  by  his  side  ;  all  eyes  sought  for  him  ;  "he  was 
the  admired  of  all."  He  was  the  theme  of  every  body's 
conversation.  Phrenologists  discovered  an  extraordinary 
contour  in  the  formation  of  his  head,  and  developments 
of  capacity  far  exceeding  any  they  had  ever  noticed  in 
other  subjects. 

On  the  day  of  tlie  great  sale  of  lots,  at  Niagara  Falls, 
in  August,  183G,  in  which  his  fate  was  deeply  interested, 
and  when  the  whole  story  of  his  frauds  he  knew  would 
soon  be  published  to  the  world  ;  when  the  burthen  must 
have  pressed  upon  his  mind  like  molten  lead  ;  yet,  he 
was  still  active,  pointing  out  to  his  agents  what  sections 
to  sell,  and  mingling  with  the  purchasers.  A  gentle- 
man, of  much  knowledge  of  mankind,  to  whom  Rath- 
bun  was  unknown,  desired  to  have  him  pointed  out ; 
and,  after  seeing  and  observing  him  for  some  time,  ho 
said  —  *' How  much  more  active  and  able  Rathbun  ap- 
pears than  ■'^■^^^^  -;f«*if^^»»  mentioning  the  name  of  one 
of  the  wisest  and  most  active  men  in  the  country.  Such 
was  the  delusion  that  prevailed  with  all,  as  to  the  esti- 
mation of  Rathbun's  character  and  ability.  None  felt 
himself  demeaned  by  awarding  to  him  superior  and  ex- 
celling powers.  It  is  not  wonderful,  that  in  beholding 
the  general  infatuation,  he,  too,  should  become  beside 
himself. 

"  Great  wits  are,  sure,  to  madness  near  .illietl, 
And  thin  partitions  do  their  bounds  divide.'* 


JAUNT    TO    TIIR    WHIRLrOOL. 


105 


Huthimn— liiH  fall. 


t'( 


Hi 


•ho 


»r  aiiihiti 


I) 


(1I( 


(I, 


Lie  own  scnoni^s  oi  aiiiDition  were 
bcsklea,  lie  had  the  visionary  views  of  others  based  upon 
liini  ;  and  lie  became  the  broad  colossi;!  illar  that  sus- 
tained the  spcc'ub'iting  mania  of  that  time.  He  was  flat- 
tered into  an  opinion  of  the  pcrlectness  of  his  judj^nnent. 
and  was  mad(^  to  believe  that  he  was  worth  millions. 
Still,  he  was  in  want  of  the  means  to  carry  into  eflect 
all  his  sunny  visions,  or  yet  there  remained  to  !)e  secured 
some  i'avorite  si)eculation  ;  and,  in  an  evil  hour,  the 
course  was  commenced  that  destroyed  him. 

Nothing  can  be  said  in  juslification  of  such  conduct  : 
yet,  it  is  charitable  to  believe,  that  it  was  his  intention 
to  cancel  every  liability.  As  he  daily  had  brought  to  hia 
notice,  the  immense  value  of  his  estate,  doubtless  he 
vainly  supposed  he  could;  at  any  hour,  sweep  away  every 
vestige  of  fraud.  But  the  volcano,  on  which  he  reposed, 
burst  forth,  and  plunged  him  into  irretrievable  ruin  ; 
leaving  his  buildings,  his  improvements,  and  all  his 
valual)le  acquisitions,  to  be  sacrificed,  and  to  become  the 
property  of  others. 

Rathbiin  committed  no  frauds  to  lavish  the  avails  in 
debauchery,  or  in  criminal  pursuits  of  any  kind.  Very 
industrious  ;  regular  in  his  habits,  and  attached  to  his 
family,  he  lived  quietly  in  his  own  domestic  circle  ;  de- 
votedly beloved  by  his  wife,  a  very  amiable  woman, 
and  esteemed  by  all  his  intimate  acquaintance.  He  was 
just  in  his  dealing  with  those  who  labored  for  him,  set- 
tling with  them,  and  paying  them  with  great  regulanty. 
A  course  so  honest  and  commendable,  made  him  very 
popular  with  his  workmen.  His  great  aim  appears  to 
have  been  to  give  celebrity  to  the  name  of  Lenjamiii 
Rathbun,  and  that  he  sought  to  do,  by  the  erectioi^  cf 
fire-proof  stores,  spacious  dwelling  houses,  noble  hoteL-, 


106 


JAUNT   TO   THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


Rathbun  —  a  proposition. 


and  magnificent  exchanges,  and  to  beautify  and  adorn 
the  country  by  useful  and  elegant  improvements.  The 
building  of  rail-roads,  mills,  factories,  and  steam-boats, 
all  were  among  his  operations,  or  entered  into  his  plans. 
For  accomplishing  objects  like  thece,  his  offence  was 
committed,  and  not  for  any  criminal  purpoHes.  He 
erred  greatly,  in  not  at  once  acknowledging  the  charges 
against  him,  and  in  not  throwing  himself  upon  the  mercy 
of  the  court,  and  commisseration  of  the  community. 
Such  boundless  ambition,  however  directed,  can  never 
be  approved. 

The  ends  of  justice  have  now  been  answered  :  he  may 
again  be  an  useful  man.  Let  his  friends  ask  for  the  re- 
mi^bion  of  the  further  penalty  of  the  law.  Let  them  do 
more  :  let  them,  at  some  suitable  place,  build  an  hotel, 
equal  if  not  surpassing  any  in  the  United  States,  and 
make  Rathbun  the  landlord.  Such  an  act  would  be 
kindness  to  him, —  would  confer  a  favor  upon  those  who 
travel,  and  the  proprietors  would  soon  find  their  stock 
profitab'e. 


The  party  have  resumed  their   seats  in   the  carriage, 
and  have  concluded  to  extend  their  ride. 


•     i> 


JAUNT   TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


107 


Devil's  Hole. 


BATTLE  OF  THE  DEVILS  HOLE. 

"  Once  this  soft  turf,  this  riv'let's  sands, 
Were  trampled  by  a  hurrying  crowd ; 

And  fiery  hearts,  and  armed  hands. 
Encountered  in  the  battle  cloud." 


'I 


-3 1 

11 


A  mile  from  the  Whirlpool,  the  road  runs  within  a 
few  feet  of  the  river's  bank,  where  a  deep  and  gloomy 
chasm  is  rent  or  worn  out  of  the  rock.  This  is  called 
the  Devil's  Hole,  and  the  small  stream  which  crosses 
the  road  and  falls  in  the  chasm,  is  the  Bloody  Run. 

In  1759,  while  the  war  was  yet  raging  between  Eng- 
land and  France,  a  detachment  of  one  hundred  British 
regulars  were  conveying  a  large  supply  of  provisions, 
beef  cattle,  and  munitions  of  war,  to  Fort  Schlosser. 
Indians  were  employed  by  both  parties.  Those  in  the 
interest  of  the  French,  had  been  for  some  days  hovering 
unobserved  about  the  British  camp,  and  when  the  convoy 
set  out,  they  were  on  the  alert.  At  this  place,  they 
formed  *heir  ambuscade,  and  never  was  there  a  spot 
more  favorable  for  such  a  maneuvre.  The  road  passed 
down  a  small  hill,  and  continued  on  a  level  for  about  a 
hundred  rods,  when  it  again  rose  on  higher  ground. 
The  northern  portion  of  the  road  is  now  sligh  iy  aried. 
The  ascents  were  united  by  an  elevated  ridge  of  level 
land,  which  was  covered  with  wood,  and  commanded 
the  road  for  the  whole  distance.  On  the  right  of  the 
advancing  party,  was  the  high  bank  of  the  Niagara  river, 
and  on  the  left  the  ridge,  and  at  each  extremity  the  two 
small  hills.  The  party,  unsuspecting  any  attack,  moved 
forward  on  the  road  ;   when  the  front  of  the  detachment 


I 


V   .^ 


108 


JAUNT    TO   THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


The  nmbusciule. 


reached  the  end  of  the  ravine,  the  Indian  fusees  were 
opened  upon  them  with  deadly  aim  ;    then  followed  the 
dread  war-whoop,  as  if  a  thousand  wolves  were  howl- 
ing and  yelling  around  them.     Indeed,  their  assailants 
were  more  fierce  and  ferocious  than  the  wild  beasts  of  the 
forest.     Many  of  the  soldiers  were  killed  at  the  first  dis- 
charge, and  the  others  were  thrown  into   hopeless  con- 
fusion.    The  Indians  fell  like  tigers  upon  the  drivers, 
tomahawked  them  in  their  seats,  and  threw  them  under 
foot.     The  wagons  were  backed  off  tLo  precipice,  and 
men  and  cattle  fell  with  the  loading  in  one  dismembered 
and   mutilated  mass  below.      Some   threw   themselves 
from  the  bank,  and  fell  mangled  and  dying  on  the  rocks  ; 
others  lodged  in  the  branches  of  the  trees,  where  they 
remained,  disabled,  until  the  affray  was  over,  when  the 
savages  at  their  leisure  despatched  them.     The  horror  of 
the  scene  can  be  but  faintly  imagined.     The  quick  re- 
port of  the  fusees,  the  yells  of  the  Indians,  the  bellowing 
of  the  cattle,  the   shrieks  of  the  wounded  and   dying, 
mingled  with  the  monotonous  roar  of  the  surges  of  the 
Niagara,  which  rose  from  below  as  in  mockery  of  the 
the  folly,   the  strife,   and  dying  groans  of  men.     The 
brook  that  courses  over  the  bank,  ran  red  with  the  blood 
of  the  slain.    A  person,  by  the  name  of  Stedman,  escaped 
by  cutting  the  bridle  of  his  horse,  which  an  Indian  had 
seized.     The  horse  fled  with  him  up  the  small  stream, 
and  came  again  to  the  Niagara  river,  at  the  mouth  of  a 
creek  now  called  Gill  Creek.     The  heirs,  or  representa- 
tives of  this  man  have  since  setup  a  pretended  title  to 
the  tract  of  land  which  he  encompassed  in  his  retreat, 
bounding  west  on   the  Niagara  river,  and  say  that  the 
Indians  ^nve  him  the  land,  as  *' a  medicine,"  for  his 
loss  at  the  Devil's  Hole.     No  deed  or  confirmation  of 


■■?■ 


JAUNT    TO     THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


109 


Four  persons  csciii/e. 


title  being  produced  to  our  courts,  the  claim  was  not 
admitted. 

Stedman's  brother  threw  himself  down  the  bank,  and 
was  fortunately,  without  injury,  caught  in  the  top  of  a 
pine  tree  ;  thence,  he  descended  to  the  water's  edge, 
and  by  swimming  in  some  places,  and  scrambling  through 
brakes  and  over  rocks  in  others,  he  succeeded  in  reach- 
ing the  landing,  now  Lewiston.  Two  other  persons, 
only,  made  good  their  escape  :  all  the  others  were  de- 
stroyed. Until  of  late  years,  pieces  of  the  wagons,  and 
other  evidences  of  this  bloody  discomfiture,  existed  ;  but 
they  have  now  entirely  mouldered  iway. 


At  Colt's  tavern,  four  miles   from  the  Falls,  a  road 
strikes  ofl^  to  the  cast,  which  leads  to  the  Indian  village. 
As  the  travellers  turn  to  the  right,   the   guide  points  to 
the  next  rising  ground  in  sight,  on  the  Lewiston  road, 
and  observes  —  "  there  resided  an  honest  old  Dutch  far- 
mer, by  the  name  of  March.     When  the  British  and  In- 
dians made  their  destructive  incursion  on  the  frontier, 
information  did  not  reach  him  in  season  to   make  his 
escape.     While  he  was  harnessing  his  horses,   a  party  of 
Indians   rushed   upon   him,  and  murdered  him  on  the 
spot.     While  the  bloody  deed  was  going  on,  in  front  of 
the  house,  the  family  effected  their  escape  to  the  woods. 
A  scouting  party  of  Americans,  some  days  afterwards, 
passing  that  way,  found  his  own  hogs  eating  his  body. 
Such  are  the  abhorrent  scenes  which  war  presents. 


110 


JAUNT   TO   THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


The  Indian  Village. 


TUSCARORA     INDIANS. 

*'  That  cliff,  methinks,  the  Indian  cry 
Peals  from  its  summit,  slirill  and  high." 

They  are  a  part  of  the  tribe  of  Tuscaroras,  formerly 
inhabiiing  North  Carolina.  They  came  to  this  country 
about  the  year  1712,  and  joined  the  five  nations.  The 
whole  formed  the  warlike  confederacy  called  the  Six 
Nations.  They  live  on  a  tract  of  land  ceded  to  them  by 
the  Senecas,  of  one  by  three  miles,  and  also  4328  acres 
deeded  to  them  by  the  Holland  Land  Company.  The 
United  States,  in  1837,  purchased  out  their  interest,  and 
they  are  to  be  removed  to  the  west.  They  number  only, 
at  this  time,  283  individuals.  Their  present  principal 
chief  is  Thomas  Chew,  the  son  of  an  Englishman. 

Our  party  having  arrived  at  the  village,  look  into  the 
wigwams  ;  make  such  observations,  and  take  such  notes 
of  the  customs  and  manners  of  the  inhabitants,  as  a  short 
and  hnsty  visit  affords  ;  purchase  some  articles  of  Indian 
manufacture  ;  or,  perhaps,  seek  an  introduction  to  the 
venerable  chief  Sacarissa,  who  was  a  commissioned  offi- 
cer in  the  American  army,  in  the  revolutionary  war.  If 
it  be  Sunday,  the  travellers  attend  the  place  of  public 
worship,  where,  besides  the  interest  afforded  by  the  ser- 
mon of  the  missionary,  they  will  hear  it  translated  to 
the  natives,  in  their  peculiar  guttural  language  ;  and 
also  hear  singing,  of  the  most  superior  order.  The 
Indians  are,  justly,  much  extolled  for  their  fine  voices. 
They  are  very  fond  both  of  vocal  and  instrumental  music. 

Among  their  distinguished  men,  there  was  one,  some 
time  since,  by  the  name  of 


JAUNT    TO   THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


An  Indian  Speech. 


HI 


} 


LITTLE     CHIEF. 

Immediately  after  the  declaration  of  war  by  our  govern- 
ment, in  J81'2,  about  a  dozen  of  the  sachems  and  prin- 
cipal men  of  the  village,  with  much  formality,  called  on 
the  commanding  officer  of  Fort  Niagara.  The  officers 
of  the  fort  assembled  at  the  commandant's  quarters,  and 
being  seated.  Little  Chief  thus  expressed  himself  : 

"  John  Mountpleasant,  a  noble  Indian," 

*'  He  says,"  spoke  the  interpreter,  "  that  Captain 
Bruff  was  the  first  American  that  took  possession  of  this 
fort.  lie  received  it  peaceably  from  the  hands  of  the 
the  British.  He  and  his  troops  resided  here  in  peace  ; 
there  was  no  war,  no  trouble.  He  went  away  :  he  left 
the  fort  strong  as  he  got  it.     He  did  well." 

*'  He  says," — "  Next  came  Major  Revardi,  and  still 
there  was  peace.  These  fortifications  remained  firm  and 
strong  :  there  were  no  enemies  to  approach  them.  He 
went  away  :  he  left  all  things  as  he  found  them.  He  did 
well." 

''  He  says," — *'  Then  came  Captain  Wiley  :  yet  there 
was  peace.  Friends  passed  from  one  side  of  the  river  to 
the  other  :  the  warriors  rested  on  their  arms  in  security, 
and  there  were  none  to  call  them  to  battle.  He  went 
away.     He,  too,  left  the  fort  strong.     He  did  well." 

"  He  says," — '<  After  him,  came  Major  Porter  :  yet 
there  was  peace.  He  also  went  away.  He  left  all  things 
as  he  found  them.     He  did  well." 

"  He  says," — <*  These  all  did  well.  You  came  next. 
You  found  the  fort  strong.  You  have  been  here  in  peace. 
You,  too,  have  done  well.  Now,  war  has  come.  This 
fort  is  of  great  importance  to  the  United  States.  Those 
that  came  before  you,  did  well  in  peace.  You  must  do 
well  in  war. 


1 


hi\ 


;:M 


i!    V 


ii     V 


JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


An  Indian  adventure. 


He  says," — "  We  have  come  to  tell  you,  that  we  t;re 
the  friends  of  the  United  States  :  we  are  as  one  peopl'j. 
We  wish  to  offer  our  services  to  you  :  our  warriors  will 
do  all  they  can  :  they  hold  themselves  readv  to  fight 
for  this  couRcry.  When  you  need  us,  call,  and  we  will 
come.' 

The  commanding  officer  made  a  suitable  reply,  stating 
that  if  their  services  should  be  required  for  defensive  pur- 
poses, the  government  of  the  United  States  would  in- 
form them.  After  Great  Britain  had  set  the  example  of 
employing  Indians,  the  Tuscaroras  were  called  upon, 
and  no  Americans  behaved  better  than  they  did,  during 
the  remainder  of  the  war. 

The  travellers  leave  the  village,  and  descend  the  moun- 
tain towards  Lewi^ton. 


AN     INDIAN     ADVENTURE. 

"  In  voice,  mein,  gesture,  savage  nature  spoke." 

Just  below  the  mountain,  and  to  the  right  of  the  road 
which  descends  from  the  Tuscarora  village,  lives  Mr. 
Sparrow  Sage.  He  had,  on  the  19th  of  December,  1813, 
in  the  distressing  invasion  of  this  frontier,  been  driven 
from  his  home.  For  the  purpose  of  securing  his  harvest, 
he,  the  summer  after,  returned  with  his  wife,  to  their 
exposed  and  solitary  dwelling.  One  day,  when  he  was 
at  work  at  some  distance  in  the  fields,  an  Indian,  attached 
to  the  British  cause,  entered  the  house.  He  demanded 
something  to  eat,  speaking  in  broken  English.  Mrs.  S. 
was  entirely  alone,  and  immediately  obeyed  his  bidding, 
being  in  hopes  that  he  would,  after  eating,  go  away. 


JAUNT   TO   THE   WHIRLPOOL. 


113 


An  ubduction. — The  rescue. 


After  he  had  finished  his  rojiast,  he  told  her  that  he  lived 
at  Grand  River,  in  Canada,  and  that  he  had  come  after 
her  to  go  with  him,  and  she  must  be  his  squaw.  She 
replied  to  him,  that  could  not  be,  for  she  had  a  husband. 
*' No,  no,"  he  angrily  said,  "You  very  pretty  —  you 
must  be  my  squaw  —  you  shall  go."  In  vain  she  told 
him  that  her  husband  and  others  were  near  by  ;  that  he 
had  better  go  away,  or  he  might  get  killed.  The  Indian 
then  took  down  Mr.  S's  gun,  and  finding  it  not  loaded, 
put  it  up  again.  Afterwards,  he  ransacked  the  house, 
commanding  Mrs.  S.  not  to  leave  his  sight,  and  keep- 
ing his  eye  upon  her.  He  first  appropriated  to  himself 
all  that  he  could  carry  ;  then,  seizing  her  forciby  by  the 
arm,  he  dragged  her  out  of  the  back  door,  and  thence 
towards  the  woods,  in  the  direction  of  Fort  Niagara, 
then  in  the  occupation  of  the  British.  The  husband 
heard  the  screams  of  his  wife,  and  hurrying  towards  the 
house,  seized  an  axe  which  was  lying  at  the  door,  and 
followed  in  pursuit.  He  came  up  to  them  at  the  fence, 
on  the  border  of  the  forest.  Not  letting  go  his  hold,  the 
savage  fired  at  Mr.  S.  as  he  ran  towards  them.  His 
ball  did  not  take  efiect ;  and,  just  as  he  was  raising  his 
victim  to  throw  her  over  the  fence,  he  received  a  blow 
from  the  axe  which  broke  his  rifle,  and  made  him  let  go 
of  Mrs.  S.  He  then,  consulting  his  own  safety,  leaped 
over  the  fence  ;  but,  in  doing  so,  he  received  another 
blow  from  the  axe,  which  made  him  fill  the  forest  with 
his  yells,  and  he  made  off  with  all  the  speed  he  could, 
into  the  thick  woods.  Mr.  S.  did  not  think  proper  to 
pursue,  but,  returning  with  his  wife,  they  immediately 
left  their  dangerous  habitation  for  a  place  of  greater 
security. 


8 


Ml 


mi 


114 


JAUNT   TO   THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


Auotlier  udveuture. 


Mr.  William  Molyneux,  the  father  of  Mrs.  S.  had, 
the  winter  before,  occupied  the  same  residence.  About 
a  month  after  ho  and  his  family  had  been  obliged  to  flee 
from  their  homes,  he  returned  very  caut'ously.  He 
entered  his  house,  and  found  two  Indians  lying  dead  on 
the  floor.  A  party  of  American  militia-men  had  come 
upon  them  unexpectedly,  while  they  were  carousing  upon 
the  good  fare  and  liquors  which  the  occupants  had  left. 
They  were,  no  doubt,  abroad  for  murder  and  destruc- 
tion, and  met  the  fate  which  they  intended  for  others. 
Mr.  W.  dragged  their  bodies  from  the  house,  and  as  he 
had  no  aid  or  time  to  bury  them,  he  formed  round  them 
a  largo  pile  of  logs  and  rails,  and,  setting  fire  to  it,  they 
were  consumed.  The  British  Indians  considered  it  quite 
an  aflront,  and  threatened  vengeance.  It  v,  as  an  empty 
threat,  for  they  had  already  done  him  all  the  mischicl 
they  could. 


AN     ESCAPE     FROM      INDIANS. 

*'  Though  few  the  numbers  — their.^  the  strife, 
That  neither  Bi;ares  nor  i^eeks  for  life." 

Another  incident,  which  occurred  on  the  memorable 
invasion  before  alluded  to,  took  place  on  the  Ridge  Road, 
a  few  miles  east  of  Mr.  Molyneux' s  public-house.  The 
roads  had  been  deeply  broken  up,  and  were  frozen  in 
that  state,  and  it  was  impossible  to  proceed  with  wagons  ; 
a  very  little  snow  enabled  the  inhabitants  si  jwly  to  move 
along  with  sleighs.  They  were  fleeing  from  a  relentless 
and  cruel  enemy.  The  rear  of  the  fugitives  was  brought 
up  with  a  two-horse  sleigh,  driven  by  a  young  man,  who 


r 


JAUNT   TO   THE   WHIRLPOOL. 


115 


Death  of  an  Indian. 


was  walking  by  the  side  of  his  horses.  In  the  sleigh  lay 
his  brother,  who,  one  week  before,  had  had  his  leg  am- 
putated just  below  the  thigh.  His  condition  was  very 
feeble,  and  to  proceed  rapidly,  rough  as  the  roads  then 
were,  wor'd  have  been  death  to  him.  There  was  no 
alternative,  but  to  continue  tlie  moderate  pace  at  which 
they  were  moving.  The  driver  was  armed  with  a  rifle. 
At  that,  and  distrustfully  behind  him,  he  alternately 
looked ;  for  he  knew  the  foe  was  near  at  hand.  At 
length,  the  war-whoop,  with  its  accompanying  yells, 
broke  upon  their  ears.  The  disabled  brother  besought 
the  other  to  leave  him  to  his  fate,  and  by  flight  to  save 
his  own  life.  "No,"  he  replied,  **if  we  are  to  die, 
we  will  perish  together."  The  party  of  Indians  that 
pursued  them  were  in  full  sight ;  and  one,  far  in  advance 
of  the  others,  called  to  them  to  stop,  making  threatening 
gestures,  and  raising  his  rifle.  With  the  same  slow 
pace,  the  horses  proceeded  ;  the  driver,  coolly  collecting 
himself  for  the  conflict,  in  which  there  were  such  fearful 
odds  against  him.  The  Indian  sprang  forward,  and  was 
within  a  few  paces  of  the  sleigh,  when  the  young  man, 
suddenly  turning  himself,  quickly  raised  his  rifle,  and 
firing,  fatally  wounded  his  pursuer.  The  savage  plunged 
forward,  fell,  and  his  body  rolled  out  of  the  road.  A 
yell  of  vengeance,  from  the  band  in  the  road,  came  like 
the  knell  of  death  upon  the  brothers.  At  that  moment, 
a  friendly  party  of  the  Tuscaroras  were  seen  descending 
the  adjacent  mountain  ;  and  the  well-directed  fire  they 
opened  on  the  British  Indir  ■ 


UUHi 


precipitatel 


to  retire.  The  driver  of  :"!«  ileigh  was  the  Hon.  Bates 
Cooke,  and  the  invalid  w;  >  his  brother,  Lathrop  Cooke, 
Esq.  Mr.  B.  Cooke,  at  the  battle  of  Queenston,  was 
pilot  of  the  boat  that  led  the  van  on  that  occasion  ;  the 


"^I^^WB^W 


116 


JAUNT    TO   THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


I' 


II 1  i 


Village  ol'  liCwiston. 


boat  was  brought  to  the  exact  point  designated,  and  the 
men,  though  fired  upon  by  the  sentinel  who  gave  the 
alarn^i,  were  landed  without  loss. 


The  party  approach  Lewiston.  The  summer  after 
this  village  was  burnt,  the  prospect  all  around  was  like 
one  extensive  meadow.  Nearly  all  the  fences  in  the 
fields  had  been  destroyed  by  our  own  troops,  at  different 
times,  while  encamped  there,  or  passing  through  ;  but, 
at  the  time  it  was  burnt  by  the  British,  the  destruction 
was  general  :  nothing  was  left  that  would  burn  ;  and 
the  life  of  no  creature  was  spared  that  could  be  destroyed. 
Not  only  the  fields,  but  the  yards  and  streets  were 
covered  with  high  grass,  and  the  prospect  was  lonely  and 
melancholy  in  the  extreme  —  not  a  living  creature  was 
to  be  seen.  A  spirit  of  wanton  cruelty  had  caused  the 
enemy  to  destroy  all  that  they  could  not  carry  away. 
Little  swarms  of  small  yellow  butterflies,  flitting  about 
above  the  tall  grass,  marked  the  spot  where  the  carcass 
of  some  creature  lay,  where  it  had  been  shot  down  or 
perished.  What  scene  can  be  more  gloomy,  than  a  once 
populous  country  depopulated,  and  laid  waste  by  the 
ravages  of  war  ! 

As  you  enter  the  village,  directly  fronting  the  road 
from  the  Falls,  formerly  lived  sergeant  Thomas  Hustler, 
one  of  Gen.  Wayne's  old  veterans.  He  carried  about, 
for  many  years,  a  ball  in  his  thigh,  which  he  received 
in  battle.  He  kept  a  public-house,  one  of  the  best  of 
those  times  ;  and  the  grateful  beverage  of  old  mother 
Hustler's  good  coffee,  is  yet  remembered  by  many  an 
old  traveller  ;  and  many  a  sleigh-ride,  and  jaunt  of  plea- 
sure, was  made  by  the  officers  of  Fort  Niagara,  to  the 
public-house  of  the  old  sergeant. 


\ 


4r 


)* 


» 


JAUNT   TO   THE   WHIRLPOOL. 


117 


Five  Mile  Mendow. 


A  little  furtlior  in  the  village,  lived  a  respectable  phy- 
sician, by  the  name  of  Alvord.  When  the  Indians  en- 
tered Lewiston,  carrying  before  them  terror  nnrl  death, 
he  was  prcparini^  to  fly  from  the  danger,  but  he  was  too 
late ;  as  he  was  mounting  his  horse,  they  shot  him 
down,  and  scnlped  him. 

Lewiston  was,  in  1805,  named  after  Governor  Lewis, 
of  the  state  of  New  York  ;  it  was  burnt  in  1813,  and  is 
now  a  beautiful  and  flourishini?  villa  ire. 


■II 


FIVE     BI  I  L  E     MEADOW. 


,  ,',t 
I' 


**  Como,  tread  with  me  yon  changeful  dells, 
Where  beauty  into  grandeur  swells." 

This  beautiful  and  valuable  situation,  celebrated  in  the 
early  days  of  the  country,  as  well  as  in  the  present,  is 
between  one  and  two  miles  below  Lewiston,  and  five 
miles  fr'^-n  the  Fort.  Hence  its  name.  It  is  the  resi- 
dence an  I  property  of  Captain  Nathaniel  Leonard,  for- 
merly of  the  United  States  army. 

At  the  close  of  the  last  war,  he  retired  to  this  place, 
esteemed  as  the  most  attractive  and  pleasant  of  any  on 
the  river.  Here,  in  the  midst  of  a  beloved  family,  in  the 
improvement  and  cultivation  of  his  farm,  and  in  the 
confidence  of  his  many  friends  and  neighbors,  he  has 
lived  happily  for  many  years,  and  truly  verified  the 
adage,  that 

"  The  post  of  honor  is  a  private  station." 

Youngstown  is  a  village,  also,  lying  by  the  side  of  the 
ISfiagara  river.     It  is  one  mile  from  Fore  Niagara,  and 


—  •    ■  iiiiirtsa 


Jii: 


118 


JAUNT    TO   THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


Fort  NiaKtira. 


old  Fort  George,  in  Cnnndn,  is  directly  opposite.  It 
derives  its  name  from  John  Youn^r,  nn  Anicricnn  mer- 
chant, living  in  Cnnad;i,  who  is  the  principal  proprietor. 
Plere  is  kept  the  only  ferry  to  Cnnada,  between  Lewis- 
ton  and  Lake  Ontario.  A  horse  boat  is  maintained.  In 
summer  time,  it  is  very  pleasant  crossing  ;  but,  in  win- 
ter, if  the  ice  runs,  there  is  danger. 


FORT     NIAGARA. 

"  Hoarse  barked  tho  wolf;  tlic  vnlturc  screamed  afar,- 
The  angel  pity  shunned  the  walks  of  u  ar.'' 

This  fortress  is  in  latitude  43  dog.  14  sec.  N.  In  167J), 
a  small  spot  was  enclosed  by  pallisades,  by  M.  De  Salle, 
an  officer  in  the  service  of  France.  In  1725,  the  Fort 
was  built.  In  1759,  it  was  taken  by  the  British,  under 
Sir  William  Johnson.  The  capture  has  been  ascribed  to 
treachery,  though  there  is  not  known  to  be  any  existing 
authority  to  i)rove  the  charge.  In  1790,  it  was  surren- 
dered to  the  United  States.  On  the  19th  of  December,. 
1813,  it  was  again  taken  by  the  British,  by  surprise  ; 
and  in  Mareh,  1815,  again  surrendered  to  the  Ameri- 
cans. This  old  fort  is  as  much  noted  for  enormity  and 
crime,  as  for  any  good  ever  derived  from  it  by  the  nation 
in  occupation.  While  in  the  hands  of  the  French,  there 
is  no  doubt  of  its  having  been,  at  times,  used  as  a  prison  ; 
its  close  and  impregnable  dungeons,  where  light  was 
not  admitted,  and  where  remained,  for  many  years  after, 
clear  traces,  and  a  part  of  the  ready  instruments  for  exe- 
cution, or  for  murder.  During  the  American  revolution, 
it  was  the  head-quarters  of  all  that  was  barbarous,  uure- 


1 


JAUNT   TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


\ 


's 


119 


Fort  NinRarn- — IMcss-housc. 


Icnting,  nnd  cruel.  Tlicre,  were  congregated  the  lenders 
and  chiefs  of  those  bands  of  murderers  and  miscreants, 
that  carried  death  and  destruction  into  the  remote  Ame- 
rican settlements.  Tiierc,  civili'/ed  Europe  revelled  with 
savage  America  ;  and  ladies  of  education  and  refinement 
mingled  in  the  society  of  those  whose  only  diitinctioii 
was  to  wield  the  bloody  tomahawk  and  sca!ping-knife. 
There,  the  squaws  of  the  forest  were  raised  to  eminence, 
?ind  the  most  unholy  unions  between  them  and  oflicers 
of  the  highest  rank,  smiled  upon  and  countenanceu. 
There,  in  their  strong  hold,  like  a  nest  of  vultures, 
securely,  for  seven  years,  they  sallied  forth  and  preyed 
upon  the  distant  settlements  of  the  JVIohawks  and  Sus- 
quehannahs.  It  was  the  depot  of  their  plunder  ;  there 
they  i)lanned  their  forays,  and  there  they  returned  to 
feast,  until  the  hour  of  action  came  again. 

Fort  Niagar-i  is  in  the  state  of  New  York,  and  stands 
on  a  point  of  land  at  the  mouth  of  the  Niagara  river.  It 
is  a  traditionary  story,  that  the  mess-house,  which  is  a 
very  strong  building  and  the  largest  in  the  fort,  was 
erected  by  stratagem.  A  considerable,  though  not  power- 
ful body  of  P'rench  troops,  had  arrived  at  the  point. 
Their  force  was  inferior  to  the  surrounding  Indians,  of 
whom  they  were  under  some  apprehensions.  They  ob- 
tained consent  of  the  Indians  to  l)iuld  a  wigwam,  and 
induced  thein,  with  some  of  their  oflicers,  to  engage  in 
an  extensive  hunt.  The  materials  had  been  made  ready, 
and,  while  the  Indians  were  absent,  the  French  built. 
When  the  parties  returned,  at  night,  they  had  advanced 
so  far  with  the  work,  as  to  cover  their  faces,  and  to  (.u\ 
fend  themselves  against  the  savages,  in  case  of  an  attack. 
In  progress  of  time,  it  became  a  place  of  considerable 
strength.     It  had  its  bastions,  ravines ;    its  ditch  and 


!i-:« 


ll:  'i 


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1 

120 


JAUNT   TO   THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


Fort  NiagariT. —  Grave  jard — black  hole. 

pickets  ;  its  curtains  and  counterscarp  ;  its  covered  way, 
draw  bridge,  raking  batteries  ;  its  stone  towers,  labora- 
tory, and  magazine  ;  its  mess-house,  barracks,  bakery, 
and  blacksmith  shop  ;  and,  for  worship,  a  chnpel,  with 
a  large  ancient  dial  over  the  doer,  to  mark  the  hourly 
course  of  the  sun.  It  was,  indeed,  a  little  city  of  itself, 
and  for  a  long  period  the  greatest  place  south  of  Mon- 
treal, or  west  of  Albany.  The  fortifications  originally 
covered  a  space  of  about  eight  acrca.  At  a  few  rods 
from  the  barrier  gate,  was  the  burying  ground  ;  h  was 
filled  with  memorials  of  the  mutability  of  human  life  ; 
and  over  the  portals  of  the  entrance  was  painted,  in  large 
axid  emphatic  characters,  the  word  "  REST." 

It  is  generally  believed,  that  some  of  the  distant  fort- 
resses of  France  were  often  converted  into  state  prisons, 
as  well  as  for  defensive  purpose3.  There  was  much 
about  Fort  Niagara,  to  establish  the  belief  that  it  had 
been  used  as  such.  The  dungeon  of  the  mess-house, 
called  the  black  hole,  was  a  strong,  dark,  and  dismal 
place  ;  and  in  one  corner  of  the  room  was  fixed  the  ap- 
paratus for  strangling  such  unhappy  wretches  as  fell  un« 
der  the  displeasure  of  the  despotic  rulers  of  those  days. 
The  walls  of  this  dungeon,  from  top  to  bottom,  had  en- 
graved upon  them  French  names,  and  mementos  in  that 
language.  That  the  prisoners  were  no  common  persons 
was  clear,  as  the  letters  and  emblems  were  chiselled 
out  in  good  style.  In  June,  1812,  when  an  attack  was 
momentarily  expected  upon  the  fort  by  a  superior  British 
force,  a  merchant,  resident  at  Fort  Niagara,  deposited 
some  valuable  articles  in  this  dungeon.  He  took  occa- 
sion, one  night,  to  visit  it  with  a  light ;  he  examined  the 
walls,  and  there,  among  hundreds  of  French  names,  he 
saw  hig  own  family  name  engraved,  in  large  letters. 


L 


JAUNT   TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


121 


Fort  Niagara. —  'ViiUarn  Morgan. 


»  * 


He  took  no  notes,  and  has  no  recollection  of  the  other 
names  and  memorials  ;  he  intended  to  repeat  hi.s  visit, 
and  to  extend  his  examination,  but  other  avocations 
caused  the  subject  to  be  neglected  ;  and  it  was  not  brought 
to  mind  again  until  of  late  years,  when  all  was  changed. 
In  further  corroboration  that  Fort  Niagara  had  witnessed 
scenes  of  guilt  and  foul  murder,  was  the  fact  that,  in 
1805,  it  became  necessary  to  clear  out  an  old  sink  at- 
tached to  the  mess-house.  The  bones  of  a  female  vreve 
found  therein,  evidently,  from  the  place  where  discovered, 
the  victim  of  some  atrocious  crime. 

There  were  many  legendary  stories  about  the  fort.  In 
the  centre  of  the  mess-house  was  a  well  of  water,  but, 
it  having  been  poisoned  by  some  of  the  former  occupants, 
in  latter  years  the  water  was  not  used  ;  and  it  was  a 
story  with  the  soldiers,  and  believed  by  the  superstitious, 
that  at  midnight  the  headless  trunk  of  a  French  general 
officer  was  often  seen  sitting  on  the  curb  of  the  old  well, 
where  he  had  been  murdered,  and  his  body  thrown  in  ; 
and,  according  to  dreamers  and  money-diggers,  large 
treasures,  both  in  gold  and  silver,  have  been  buried  in 
many  of  the  nooks  and  corners  of  the  old  fort.  Many 
applications  used  to  be  made  to  the  American  officers,  to 
dig  for  money,  and  persons  have  been  known  to  come 
from  a  considerable  distance  for  that  purpose.  The  re- 
quests were,  of  course,  refused. 

Of  late  years,  matter  of  fact  has  been  more  strange 
than  romance.  William  Morgan  was  kidnapped  from 
the  jail  in  Canandaigua  ;  carried  in  a  post  coach,  undis- 
covered and  by  violence,  for  more  than  one  hundred 
miles,  through  a  populous  country  ;  the  perpetrators,  at 
the  time,  unsuspected  ;  was  lodged  in  the  magazine  at 
Fort  Niagara,  for  three  or  four  days  ;  and  then  was  never 


122 


JAUNT   TO   THE   WHIRLPOOL. 


Fort  Niagara. — John  Carroll. 


more  seen.  He  was  the  last  human  victim  offered  up 
in  these  recesses  of  oppression  and  blood.  What  future 
scenes  are  to  be  acted  in  this  useless  and  ruinous  old  fort, 
time  will  divulge. 

In  the  palmy  days  of  Fort  Niagara,  before  the  last  war 
with  England,  and  while  in  possession  of  the  United 
States,  the  commanding  officer  was  the  principal  man  in 
the  surrounding  country  for  many  miles  ;  and  the  lieu- 
tenants and  under  officers,  men  of  considerable  impor- 
tance ;  but  the  show  and  eclat  of  military  command  have 
vanished,  and  the  farmer,  the  mechanic,  and  the  man  of 
business,  fill,  independently  and  respectably,  their  allotted 
stations.  From  many  of  the  former  occiipants  of  Fort 
Niagara,  several  characters  might  be  selected,  a  descrip- 
tive notice  of  whom  would  be  interesting  to  general 
readers  :  some,  for  their  true  nobility  ;  others,  for  their 
meanness  ;  and  some,  for  peculiarities  especially  their 
own.  But  one  character,  however,  will  be,  for  the 
present,  noticed,  and  he  of  no  higher  rank  than  that  of 


an  army  musician. 


fl  If 


U  i 


JOHN     CARROLL. 


"  A  poor  old  soldier 

The  very  name  tlieir  loves  engage." 

Whether  he  was  brother  or  cousin  to  Carroll,  the  fa- 
mous Irish  harper,  is  not  known  ;  but,  like  him,  he  was 
of  all  things  devoted  to  music  and  whiskey.  One  morn- 
ing, Carroll  played  the  troops,  on  parade,  a  very  sprightly 
tune  ;  the  commanding  officer  threw  up  his  window,  and 
called  out  *'  Carroll,  what  tune  is  that  ?  " 


JAUNT  TO    THE   WHIRLPOOL. 


123 


Fort  Niagara. — John  Carroll.. 


I 


"  What  the  devil  ails  you,  sir  ?  "  replied  Carroll. 

*'  You  old  rascal !  What  tune  is  that  ?  "  the  officer 
again  vociferated. 

**  What  the  devil  ails  you,  sir  ?  "  was  the  response. 

**  Come  up  here,  you  scoundrel,  I  will  learn  you  to 
answer  me  in  that  way,"  was  next. 

Carroll  hastened  to  the  room,  but  was  very  careful  to 
say,  as  soon  as  he  opened  the  door,  *'  Sir,  the  name  of 
the  chune  is  what  the  devil  ails  you." 

**  Go  about  your  business,"  said  the  Major. 

One  day,  when  Carroll  had  been  paying  his  devotions 
too  freely  to  Bacchus,  in  the  use  of  his  favorite  beverage, 
and  staggering  on  the  parade,  made  a  ludicrous  figure  in 
playing  the  retreat.  The  commandant  gave  him  a  per- 
sonal reprimand,  and  threatened  him  with  confinement. 
Carroll  was  not  then  in  so  beggarly  a  state  as  to  bear 
censure  patiently,  but  felt  as  great  as  his  officer,  and  as 
rich  as  a  lord.  He  first  retaliated  in  words,  but  shortly 
became  so  furious  and  ungovernable,  as  to  make  it  ne- 
cesasry  to  confine  him  ;  and,  what  was  very  unusual,  he 
was  conveyed  and  locked  up  in  the  black  hole.  In  the 
middle  of  the  night,  the  most  dismal  sounds  were  heard 
from  the  place  of  his  confinement ;  and  orders  were 
given  that  he  should  be  looked  to.  He  was  found  in  a 
piteous  condition  ;  declaring  that  he  had  been  visited  by 
all  the  hobgoblins,  and  all  the  devils  in  existence  ;  that 
they  came  to  him  immediately  at  his  entrance,  and  had 
haunted  him  all  the  while  he  had  been  confined.  He 
begged  that  he  might  be  allowed  a  light,  his  fife,  and 
pen,  ink  and  paper  ;  that,  by  employing  himself  in  some 
way,  he  might  be  able  to  drive  away  the  horrid  thoughts 
and  phantoms  that  assail. J  him.  His  request  was 
granted.     In  the  morning,  when  he  was  released,  and 


Ikir 


124 


JAUNT    TO   THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


Jaunt  concluded. 


met  the  other  musicians,  he  produced  them  a  tune  which 
he  said  he  had  composed  during  the  latter  hours  of  his 
confinement.  He  called  it  *'  Carroll's  thoughts  on 
eternity."  Besides  this,  he  composed  several  marches, 
waltzes,  and  other  pieces  ;  none  of  which  have  ever 
been  published.  He  died  in  1812,  of  the  epidemic  which 
at  that  time  prevailed  in  the  army. 


Having  accompanied  the  party  of  travellers  to  some  of 
the  most  interesting  places  below  Niagara  Falls,  on  the 
American  side,  the  author,  bestowing  his  best  wishes 
upon  them,  takes  his  leave. 


I 


.  m 


1    I 

1     i 

n 

m 

1 

m 

1 

J 

1 

ne  which 
:s  of  his 
ghta  on 
marches, 
ave  ever 
lie  which 


)  some  of 
3,  on  the 
It  wishes 


"i 


I  m 


\  m 


% 


I' 


I    111 
I   I     '    I 


11 '- 


I'V 


1^ 


"'3 


^n 


JAUNT    TO    CANADA. 


VISIT  TO 


TABLE   ROCK,    BROCK'S    MONUMENT,  &c. 


«1 


J- 
Si 


WITH   NOTICES  OF 


QUEENSTON,   FORT  GEORGE, 


&c. 


^•v■ 


i 


^'1  -J 


I;- 


CANADA. 


*'  Princes  and  lords  may  flourish  or  may  fade  ; 
A  breath  can  make  tliem,  as  a  breatli  has  made 
But  a  bold  peasantry,  their  country's  pride, 
When  once  destroyed,  can  never  be  supplied." 


That  portion  of  Upper  Canada,  designated  in  the  de- 
spatches of  Gen.  Brown,  as  the  peninsula  lying  between 
lakes  Ontario  and  Erie,  bounded  east  on  the  Niagara 
river,  and  extending  west  about,  one  iiundred  and  fifty 
miles,  is  one  of  the  finest  tracts  of  country  in  North 
America.  The  soil  is  fertile,  the  climate  salubrious, 
and  the  scenery  beautiful.  Besides  being  bounded  on 
three  sides  with  navigable  water  communication,  there 
also  passes  over  it  many  fine  streams  and  rivulets.  The 
state  of  improvement  is  very  respectable  :  the  whole 
tract  is  only  equalled  by  Western  New  York,  whose 
inhabitants,  in  enterprise,  are  yet  considerably  in  advance 
of  those  of  Canada.  The  settlements,  on  the  western 
side  of  the  Niagara  river,  took  place  during  and  imme- 
diately after  the  war  of  the  revolution.  On  the  Ameri- 
can side,  except  at  these  points,  it  commenced  much 
later,  and  large  tracts  of  the  native  forests  are  still  re- 
maining. The  first  settlers  to  this  part  of  Canada,  were 
from  the  northern  and  western  borders  of  Pennsylvania, 
and  New  York;  Butler's  rangers  ;  the  followers  of  Sir  J. 
Johnson  ;  and  others,  who  preferred  the  paternal  govern- 


H 


I    mi 


128 


JAUNT   TO   CANADA, 


Inipmssioiid  of  truvtilcrs. 


ment  of  Great  Britain  to  the  republican  institutions  of  the 
people.  Tiie  proximity  of  the  two  countries,  the  same 
language,  and  similarity  of  pursuits,  have  so  assimilated 
the  inhabitants,  that  a  strange,  not  knowing  the  politi- 
cal division,  in  passing  from  cne  to  the  other,  would 
still  think  himself  among  the  snne  people. 

It  was  not  so  with  Captain  Bazil  Hall,  when  he  landed 
in  Canada  from  the  United  States,  and  trod  again  on 
British  ground  ;  his  chest  expanded  —  he  breathed  freer 

—  the  air  seemed  purer;  and,  seeing  a  British  soldier 
near  Brock's  monument,  he  hastened  towards  him,  and 
embraced  him  as  a  brother.  It  is  the  reverse  with  an 
American.  When  he  goes  to  Canada,  he  feels  himself 
from  home,  and  experiences  a  degree  of  constraint  to 
which  he  has  not  been  familiar.  With  feelings  no  less 
buoyant  than  those  of  Capt.  Hall,  when  ready,  he  re- 
rurns  to  his  own  shore  rejoicing,  and  grateful  for  the 
freedom  which  his  forefathers  won.  Still,  Americans 
always  leave  Canada  pleased  with  the  country,  and  grati- 
fied with  the  civility  with  which  they  are  usually  treated. 
The  sensations  that  animate  both  Americans  and  Britons 
in  passing  into  a  foreign  land,  though  apparently  dis- 
similar, yet  arise  from  the  same  source  —  love  of  country 

—  of  home,  and  veneration  for  long  cherished  institu- 
tions. 


\ 


1j 


JAUNT   TO   CANADA. 


129 


The   Ferry. 


s  of  the 
le  eaiiic 
niilatcd 
}  politi- 
would 

;  landed 
gain  on 
3d  freer 
soldier 
[ui,  and 
with  an 
himself 
raint  to 
3  no  less 
he  re- 
fer the 
nericans 
id  grati- 
treated. 
Britons 
ntly  dis- 
country 
institu- 


1/ 


fA 


VIEW     FROM     THE     STAIRS. 

•*  An'l  hark!  tlie  buirlc's  mellow  strain, 

From  hill  to  hill  is  ringing; 
And  every  zephyr,  o'er  the  plain, 

TIk'  joyful  note  is  bringing. 
Tlic  caL'lc  from  hi.n  eyry  (l:irts, 

To  liear  the  Myin;j  nunihers; 
And  CL'ho,  in  iier  grotto,  starts, 

Awakened  from  her  slumbers." 

The  party  of  travellers  arc  at  the  top  of  the  bank,  and 
commence  the  descent  of  the  long  flight  of  stairs,  in  or- 
der to  cross  the  river.  They  stop  at  the  foot  of  the  first 
flight,  and  enjoy  a  fine  view  of  the  Falls,  and  the  river 
below.  The  view  below  extends  about  two  miles,  where 
the  waters  again  break  into  billows,  and,  white  with 
foam,  seem  to  sink  into  some  subterraneous  cavern,  as 
they  disappear  behind  the  projecting  cliflfs. 

Inquiry  is  often  made  **  How  was  the  bank  descended 
before  the  stairs  were  built  ?  " 

The  descent  was  made  by  means  of  the  Indian  ladder, 
half  a  mile  further  down  the  river,  and  here,  by  clinging 
to  the  rocks  and  shrubs.  The  next  improvement  was  a 
ladder,  eighty  feet  long,  placed  nearly  perpendicularly 
against  the  bank.  Last  war,  it  was  thrown  down.  The 
same  year  that  peace  was  proclaimed,  and  before  another 
ladder  was  erected,  a  party  of  ladies  and  gentlemen, 
from  Boston,  visited  the  Falls  ;  and,  incredible  as  it 
may  appear,  descended  and  ascended  the  bank,  at  this 
place,  by  holding  fast  to  the  rocks. 


9 


« 


t  ,1 


I' ' 

! 


130 


JAUNT   TO    CANADA. 


Perilous  (Iffcciit  oT  i\to.  l.ul.Nir. 


On.  of  the  Iadi(!S  observes — *•  Their  curiosity  imist 
have  been  very  intense,  to  induce  ihcni  to  expose  llieni- 
eelvcs  to  so  much  d.inger." 

A  traveller  rei)lics  —  **  Even  the  Indder  was  difficult 
and  dangerous  to  many  who  d'^sceiuled  it  for  the  first 
time.  A  gentleman  once  dcscrilied  to  me  his  passing 
down  the  ladder  in  the  lb1lo\vi)ig  terms  :  *  When  I  was 
a  youth,  I  visited  ihc  Falls  in  company  with  a  lad  of  about 
my  own  age.  It  was  in  16i)S.  We  came  to  the  top  of  the 
bank,  and  after  viewing  the  grca^  scene  from  above,  we 
reconnoitered  the  prospect  below,  and  the  means  of  get- 
tin2  down.  I  became  very  inxious  to  desceiul,  but  the 
view  was  much  more  wild  and  terrifilc  than  at  present  ; 
and  I  had  some  slight  apprehensions.  I  desired  my 
companion  to  accompany  jiie.  I)ut  he  declined.  I  had 
not  been  used  to  clinibing  or  desceading  ladders,  and 
such  wild  scenes  were  not  lamiliar.  J  concluded  to  ven- 
ture, and  commenced  to  go  down.  I  soon  discovered 
that  every  step  I  descended.  1  had  to  hold  on  still  more 
firmly  ;  but  down  I  got.  I  then  threaded  my  way  along 
the  rough  and  slippery  path  to  the  wnler's  edge,  and 
thence  to  the  mist  and  falling  water.  It  was  a  chaotic 
scene  to  me  :  the  water  i)Oured  from  alcove  :  the  mists 
rushed  over,  and  the  Falls  roared.  I  felt  as  if  buried 
alone  in  the  deep  and  rocky  chnsm.  I  looked  up,  and 
saw  my  companion,  no  larger,  npparenlly,  than  an  in- 
fant. Like  the  first  travellers  who  visited  the  Falls,  and 
reported  them  to  000  feet  high,  to  me  the  bnnk  and  Falls 
appeared  no  less  :  and  their  actual  height  I  did  not  then 
know.  I  glanced  at  the  long  ladder  standing  against  the 
rocks,  which  I  had  again  to  ascend,  and  became  oppres- 
sed with  fear  ;  and  thought,  if  once  safe  on  the  upper 
hank,  that  I  would  not  soon  again  be  caught  in  that  hor- 


)i 


JAUNT   TO   CANADA. 


131 


Perilous  des)ccut  of  tlie  ludilcr. 


3,  and 

haotic 

mists 

buried 


') 


and 


\ 


It 


■    i 


I    I 


\; 


rid  plucc.  At  length,  1  started  up  ;  I  reached  the  huldcr, 
and  beg[in  the  ascent.  I  loolicd  above  ;  the  height  ap- 
peared almost  inlerminnble.  1  cast  my  eyes  below  ;  my 
head  bcenme  dizzy.  I  fbimd  it  my  only  security  lo  direct 
my  eyes  iniVont.  a-^ainst  the  black  and  projecting  rocks. 
My  feet  touched  the  ladder  with  weak  and  unsteady  steps, 
and  my  hands  clinched  it  with  my  utmost  strength. 
When  1  successively  let  go  to  take  another  hold,  it 
seemed  as  if  all  jjowcr  was  gone,  or  as  it'  a  heavy  load 
was  attached  to  my  arms  to  keep  them  i'rom  rising.  On 
I  went,  my  eyes  still  dirccied  against  the  rocks,  and  ex- 
erting my  (itrcngth  almost  to  exhaustion.  I  .easoned 
with  myself",  and  endeavored  to  subdue  the  apprehensions 
that  overcame  me  ;  I  thought  of  the  folly  of  my  fears, 
and  that  it  required  but  a  slight  exertion  to  hold  to  the 
ladder  ;  and  that  there  was  no  necessity  of  grasping  it 
with  such  death-like  energy.  If  it  was  twenty  times  as 
high,  I  thought  1  could  ascend  it.  At  once  I  attempted 
to  be  less  exercised,  and  took  hold  of  the  rungs  care- 
lessly ;  but,  if  1  had  not  instantly  grasped  them  with  all 
my  might,  I  should  have  liiUcn  to  the  bottom  :  and  it 
required  all  the  strength  I  was  master  of,  to  recover  my 
position.  I  found  that  T  had  vainly  flat Lered  myself ;  and 
with  more  and  more  difficulty  did  I  ri.'^e,  and  more  firm- 
ly was  I  obliged  to  hold.  Though  requiring  but  about 
five  minutes  to  make  the  rscent,  it  appeared  to  be  the 
labor  of  half  an  hour,  at  least.  At  length,  I  reached  the 
summit,  and  with  joy  I  once  more  found  myself  on  level 
land.  I  advanced  towards  my  companion,  wl;o  was 
seated  on  a  rock  at  a  short  distance,  but.  to  my  surprise, 
my  legs  refused  their  office,  my  knees  bent  under  me, 
and  I  barely  succeeded  in  walking.  I  rallied  myself,  and 
determined  to  walk  erect,  but  in  spite  of  every  effort  to 


* 

I ''    ' 


li 


132 


JAUNT   TO   CANADA. 


Conveniences  for  travellers. 


the  contrary,  my  knees  continued  for  some  fifteen  mi- 
nutes to  give  way  ;  and  I  was  convinced  that  I  had  been 
'nost  outrageously  frightened.  I  afterwards  frequently 
descended,  but  never  again  with  such  emotions.'  It  was 
certainly  a  hazardous  way  of  descending  the  bank,  and 
particularly  for  ladies  and  persons  of  weak  nerves.  The 
public  are  much  indebted  for  the  present  conveniences 
afforded  to  visiters,  and  for  nothing  more  than  the  dif- 
ferent staircases." 

The  guide  observes  —  '^  It  is  well  thought  of  by  some, 
and  they  are  willing  to  pay  for  the  many  accommodations 
they  receive  :  others  think  these  conveniences  should  be 
erected  and  maintained  gratuitously,    and   complain  of 
being  taxed  at  every  turn." 

Traveller. —  ''It  is  very  unreasonable  to  expect  that 
people  should  go  to  great  expense  in  providing  these  ac- 
commodations, and  also  give  their  personal  attention 
without  reward." 

Guide. — "  There  is  another  class,  that  object  to  these 
conveniences  ;  they  are  hunting  for  adventure  and  hair- 
breadth escapes,  about  thp  Falls  ;  they  wish,  on  their  re- 
turn, to  relate  the  imminent  danger  they  were  in,  or  the 
daring  enterprises  they  performed." 

Traveller. — "  As  to  that  matter,  there  is  room  enough 
yet.  Let  them,  go  down  the  bank,  where  there  are  no 
stairs,  if  they  disapprove  of  them  :  let  them  wander  un- 
der the  perpendicular  rocks  ;  pass  to  Ingraham's  cave  ; 
take  an  excursion  in  a  boat,  and  pass  from  Bath  Island 
to  the  islands  lying  just  above  the  Falls  ;  swim  the  Nia- 
gara river  ;  or,  in  a  boat,  pass  to  the  rapids  below.  There 
is  yet  room  for  the  wildest  adventure  about  Niagara  ;  but 
after  all,  the  greater  portion  of  mankind  are  fond  of  see- 
ing exciting  scenes  from  safe  positions.    And  the  variouB 


f 
t 

■    \ 

.1 

f  5 


i 


JAUNT   TO   CANADA. 


\33 


I 


h 


Catlin's  Cave. 


facilities  of  communication,  and  other  conveniences  for 
strangers,  are  worth  all  that  is  charged  for  them." 

The  stairs  that  descend  the  bank  were  built  by  and  be- 
long to  Judge  Porter.  The  ferry  also,  from  the  Ameri- 
can side,  belongs  to  him  :  from  the  British  side,  it  be- 
longs to  Samuel  Street,  Esq.  The  first  boat  put  on  the 
river  at  this  place,  was  by  Gen.  Parkhurst  Whitney. 
He  built  the  first  stairs  down  the  bank,  and  established 
the  first  ferry. 


^ 


Having  arrived  at  the  foot  of  the  stairs,  the  very  fine 
view  of  the  Falls,  which  is  there  presented,  is  noticed  by 
the  party.  Thence  they  wind  around  the  sloping  bank 
to  the  landing  place  ;  the  boat  is  ready  to  receive  them  ; 
and  they  are  soon  floating  over  the  convulsed  and  agita- 
ted waters.  Hoods,  India  rubbers,  oil  cloths  and  um- 
brellas, are  brought  into  requisition,  to  shield  them  from 
the  descending  mist  that  gushes  away  from  the  falling 
stream. 

Catlin's  Cave  is  about  a  mile  below,  on  the  American 
side.  It  can  only  be  visited  by  going  along  the  bottom 
of  the  perpendicular  bank,  or  near  the  water's  edge. 
Travellers  usually  employ  the  ferryman  to  take  them  in 
a  boat.  The  cnve  is  about  20  feet  in  circumference,  or 
about  the  size  of  a  baker's  large  oven  ;  and  the  entrance 
just  big  enough  to  admit  the  body  of  a  man.  When  dis- 
covered, it  was  almost  filled  with  beautiful  stalactites, 
but  these  have  been  all  removed.  Around  the  cave  are 
large  quantities  of  petrified  moss,  and  springs  of  water 
gush  out  above  and  at  the  sides  of  the  cave,  in  a  peculiar 
and  beautiful  manner. 


il! 


11 


134 


JAUNT   TO   CANADA. 


Crossing  the  river. 


Bender's  Cave  is  on  the  Canada  side,  a  little  further 
down  than  Catlin's.  It  is  about  twenty  feet  from  side  to 
side,  is  high  enough  for  persons  to  stand  in,  and  has  a 
a  floor  of  pure  white  sand.  To  persons  of  leisure,  both 
caves  are  worth  visiling,  and  afford  a  pleasant  excursion. 

Before  the  bridge  to  Iris  Island  was  built,  parties  used 
to  visit  the  lower  end  with  boats,  by  passing  up  between 
the  two  sheets  of  water  ;  some  are  slill  fond  of  making 
tlie  trip,  as  they  advance  very  close  to  the  Falls,  which 
is  to  many  very  interesting. 

Usually,  visitors  are  greatly  delighted  with  the  view  of 
the  Falls  which  is  obtained  in  crossing  the  ferry.  To- 
wards the  centre  of  the  river,  the  mist  is  dispelled,  and 
the  prospect  of  the  immense  body  of  iblling  water  is  un- 
obscured  by  any  intervening  object.  The  whole  subli- 
mity of  the  scene  is  displayed.  Besides  this,  the  eddies 
are  strong,  the  waters  dance  round  the  boat,  the  boat  it- 
self rocks  and  bounds  along,  and  some  of  the  obtrusive 
waves  dash  over  upon  the  passengers.  The  ladies  be- 
come alarmed ;  but  they  hardly  have  lime  to  inquire  if 
there  is  not  danger,  before  the  dashing  of  the  waves  has 
ceased,  the  boat  glides  smoothly  over  subdued  and  dead 
swells,  and  soon  reaches  the  Canada  shore. 

The  passengers  step  forth  upon  ilie  rocks  that  line  the 
shore.  The  mighty  cataract  is  pouring  its  ocean  of  v/a- 
ters  before  them,  but,  if  they  are  Americans,  it  has 
ceased  to  be  the  only  curiosity,  and  their  attention  is 
called  to  persons  and  characters.  A  portion  of  the  Bri- 
tish army  may  be  observed  performing  their  evolutions 
at  the  top  of  the  bank  ;  or  the  party  may  be  stopped  by  a 
non-commissioned  oflicer  and  a  file  of  men,  who  may 
question  the  different  individuals,  their  business,  and 
object  of  coming  into  the  country.    Strangers,  who  come 


JAUNT   TO  CANADA. 


135 


Village  of  Clifton. 


to  visit  the  Falls,  are  permitted  to  pass  on.  This  state 
of  things  only  existed  since  the  late  difficultif  i  have 
arisen,  and  may  be  considered  as  temporary.  H^^reto- 
tore,  travellers  have  in  no  way  been  impeded,  and  Ame- 
rican gentlemen  have  always  been  treated  with  marked 
politeness  by  the  keepers  of  hotels  and  public-houses. 

Traveller,  to  the  ladies. — '*  Now  we  are  on  the  soil  of 
'  John  Ball :  all  you  see  and  hear  will  be  new  and  in- 


teresting. 


j> 


VILLAGE     OF     CLIFTON. 


\  ^ 


■  *; 


This  village  comprises  a  fine  plot  on  the  first  and  se- 
;;ond  rise  of  land  above  the  ferry.  The  road  leading 
from  the  river  to  Druiiimondville  passes  through  the 
centre.  It  lies  directly  in  tront  of  the  Falls,  and  com- 
manda  a  full  view  of  the  river,  of  the  great  cataract,  and 
)f  tiiG  American  shore.  Its  enterprising  proprietor,  Col. 
Ogden  Creighton,  and  others,  have  made  valuable  im- 
provements, and  it  must  become  a  flourishing  place. 

Clifton  House  stands  just  at  the  head  of  the  hill  from 
the  ferry  :  the  prospect  from  its  galleries  is  fine,  and  the 
house  is  well  kept. 

The  party  proceed  along  the  bank  of  the  river  until 
coming  near  a  house  containing  a  large  Camera  Obscui'a^ 
which  bcautifally  reflects  the  Falls.  To  many,  it  is  a 
new  and  pleusing  sight,  and  is  always  worth  a  visit. 

Proceeding  further,  Mr.  Barnet's  Museum  attracts 
their  attention,  and  they  enter  to  see  hig  curiosities.  No 
person  who  visits  this  museum  will  regret  the  time  or  the 
*  rifling  expense ;  and  all  that  have  visited  it,  have  de- 


1 


136 


JAUNT   TO   CANADA, 


Table  Rock. 


parted  pleased  and  gratified.  It  is  one  of  the  best  collec- 
tions of  birds  and  animals  any  where  to  be  met  with. 
They  are  preserved  in  a  very  superior  style.  The  ani- 
mals and  birds  are  generally  those  of  the  country,  and 
look  almost  as  if  living.  The  birds  seem  not  to  have 
lost  a  feather,  and  appear  as  if  ready  to  raise  their  wings 
to  fly.  Mr.  Barnet  makes  his  own  preparations;  and, 
for  the  neat  and  beautiful  manner  he  performs  his  work, 
he  is  unexcelled.  He  will  prepare  for  visiters,  animals 
or  birds  to  order,  or  will  sell  to  them  out  of  his  stock  on 
hand.  Besides  birds  and  animals,  there  are  many  other 
curiosities  in  this  museum,  worth  seeing.  The  party, 
after  spending  half  an  hour  very  pleasantly,  bend  their 
course  towards  Table  Rock* 


ll 


^ 


TABLE     ROCK. 

"  And  still  with  soun;!  lilce  booming  pea! 

From  distant  tlumder  given, 
Forth,  forth  from  out  tlie  dark  abyss, 

The  rushing  stream  is  driven." 

Although  much  of  this  rodi  has  fallen  from  time  to 
time,  within  the  memory  of  many  yet  living  ;  still,  it 
projects  some  forty  or  fifty  feet  over  the  bank.  Through 
a  considerable  portion  of  it  runs  a  wide  and  deep  fissure, 
evidencing  that  it  will  not  be  many  years  before  the  outer 
portion  will  be  launched  below.  Some  years  since,  the 
person  who  kept  the  winding  stairs,  at  Table  Rock,  gave 
notice  that  on  a  certain  day,  (it  was  on  the  occasion  of 
one  of  the  vessels  going  over  the  Falls,)  he  should  put  a 
number  of  ke^s  of  powder  in  the  fissure  of  the  rock,  aud 


JAUNT   TO   CANADA. 


137 


Passing  under  the  sheet  of  water. 


blow  it  off.  It  was  expected  that  it  would  make  a  tre- 
mendous crash.  But  the  gentleman  who  owned  the 
principal  interest  in  the  privilege,  would  not  allow  it  to 
be  done,  as  it  would  have  put  an  end  to  the  charm  of  the 
place  —  the  vi    .  under  the  sheet  of  water. 

Traveller. — *'  If  the  rock  is  safe,  the  gentleman  did 
right  in  preserving  it  ;  but  if  it  hangs  jeopardising  the 
life  of  human  beings,  it  ought  to  be  blown  off." 

Guide. — ^'  We  are  now  on  it,  and  you  must  judge  for 
yourselves."  ' 

Traveller. — **  It  may  stand  for  half  a  centuiy,  or  may 
give  way  while  we  are  talking  about  it.  It  has,  no  doubt, 
too  dangerous  a  look  for  a  man  to  think  of  building  a 
residence  on  ;  yet,  for  a  Niagara  Falls  enthusiast,  and 
I  have  both  seen  and  heard  of  such,  it  is  just  the  spot." 


PASSING     UNDER     THE    SHEET    OF    WATER. 


It 


•'  The  glittering  stream,  the  spray  with  rainbow  round. 
The  dizzy  heiglit,  the  roar,  tlie  gulf  profound." 

Near  to  Table  Rock,  there  is  an  establishment  at  which 
dresses  are  provided,  and  guides  furnished  to  conduct 
travellers  under  the  rock,  and  thence  under  the  sheet  of 
water.  Several  of  the  party,  conclude  to  make  the  ex- 
cursion, and  enter  the  house.  The  ladies  start  back  in 
astonishment  and  dismay,  as  they  see  rising  up,  appar- 
uitly  from  a  lower  apartment,  half  a  dozen  villainous 
looking  characters,  arrayed  in  canvas  jackets,  and  in 
India  rubber  and  oil  cloth  cloaks  ;  some  with  caps  flapped 
over  their  necks,  and  others  with  tarpaulin g  slouched 
hatSj  a  good  representation  of  Italian  banditti  ;  but,  as^ 


^h   ^H*-  44 


,V**M«^<^  ■**  •^"■"^ 


,/' 


I    I 


i:08 


JAUNT   TO   CANADA. 


I 


The  tlosccnt. 


they  seemed  to  be  saturated  with  wet,  and  the  walei;  ran 
in  streams  from  th''  ,  it  was  no  great  streteh  of  fancy  to 
imagine  them  demons  of  the  Falls.  The  party  come  for- 
ward, laughing  and  chatting  gaily  ;  and  the  sweet  treble 
of  women's  voice,  mixed  with  the  louder  yet  well  modu- 
lated tones  of  the  men,  would,  at  least,  have  passed  them 
offas  a  gay  set  of  masqueradors.  An  explanation  soon 
takes  place  :  they  prove  to  be  a  company  of  ladies  and 
gentlemen  just  returned  from  under  the  sheet  of  water. 

Similar  dresses  were  soon  provided  for  the  new  com- 
ers. The  ladies  remonstrated  about  the  cow-hide  shoes, 
much  too  big,  and  other  grotesque-looking  articles  with 
which  they  had  to  ariay  themselves,  and  laughed  heartily 
at  each  of  hers  odd  and  frighifLil  appeaiance. 

They  descend  the  stairs,  make  their  way  along  the 
rocky  path,  and  soon  enter  under  the  overhanging  arch 
of  Table  Rock.  In  front  is  the  sheet  of  water  :  below, 
at  the  left,  is  the  river,  white  with  foam,  and  on  the 
shore  large  bodies  of  rock,  that  have  tumbled  from  the 
arch  under  which  the  travellers  are  winding  their  svay  ; 
and  above,  is  the  mighfy  mass  divided  into  ihousands  of 
fissures,  and  rocks  hanging  equipoised,  ready  every  mo- 
ment to  fall  and  crash  ihose  whose  temerity  leads  them 
through  that  dangerous  pass.  But,  as  no  accidents  have 
happened,  visiters  may  look  danger  in  tdeface,  and  move 
cheerily  along,  not  troubling  themselves  with  any  dis- 
turbing thoughts.  They  soon  arrive  in  the  mist,  the 
rocks  become  slippery,  but  the  guide  directs  and  lends 
his  assistance,  assuring  them  that  there  is  no  danger. 


"  Still  gropiiis  ihroufili  the  dark  recess,  we  find 
T^ew  scenes  of  woiider,  to  amuse  the  mind." 


,.  .»^-..^, 


•rrscSfr^f**" 


JAUNT   TO   CANADA. 


139 


Ternii nation  Iloek. 


P 


The  water,  driven  by  the  force  of  the  wind,  pours  over 
them,  and  in  spite  of  India  rubber  and  water-proof 
guards,  very  few  escape  being  drenched  to  the  skin.  At 
length,  it  is  announced  that  they  have  arrived  at  Ter- 
mination Rock.  There  they  stand  and  gaze  upon  the 
wonders  of  the  place,  until  (he  eye  becomes  weary  with 
seeing  the  white  and  mingling  wolers,  and  ihr  ear  tired 
of  the  deafening  sound.  Some  just  look  in,  and  casta 
fearful  glance  around,  and  then  hurry  away  ;  others  re- 
main for  half  an  hour,  or  more,  seemingly  enjoying  the 
terriffic  scene. 

It  is  considered  one  of  the  adventures  which  Niagara 
so  prolificly  affoids,  to  go  under  Table  Hock.  And  the 
proprietor  furnishes  a  certificate,  at  a  certain  ';"rice,  to  all 
those  who  perform  (he  exploit.  A  German  prince,  who 
visited  the  FaUs,  a  few  years  ago,  ofl'ered  to  pay  two 
dollars,  that  sum  being  double  the  amount  demanded, 
for  a  paper  certifying  that  he  had  gone  furiher  under  the 
Falls  than  any  other  man.  The  keeper  would  not  take 
the  bribe,  but  gave  him  the  ordinary  cerfificate. 

Having  safely  reiurned  to  the  top  of  the  rock,  and  re-^ 
sumed  their  colloquy  with  the  guide,  one  of  the  party 
observes  — 

'^  It  would  be  a  dreadful  sight  to  behold  a  boat,  in 
which  there  were  human  beings-  coming  down  the  rapids 
and  going  over  the  Falls." 

Guide. — '•  That  sight  has  never  been  witnessed  ;  in 
all  the  cases  that  have  occurred,  the  boats  have  been 
capsized,  and  the  persons  thrown  out  in  the  rapids,  and 
were  lost  to  the  eyes  of  those  who  stood  on  the  shore 
before  they  reached  the  Falls  ;  and  it  is  generally  sup- 
posed that  they  perish  before  they  pass  over. 


140 


JAUNT   TO   CANADA, 


Going  over  the  Falls. 


GOING     0  V  i:  R 


HE     FALLS. 


m 


"  What  thoughts  are  theirs,  who,  in  the  wat'ry  deep. 
For  a  sliort  ?paee  cling  to  some  hope  forlorn, 
And  tug  for  one  more  moment  of  sweet  liie  — 
For  precious  and  desired  life  7  " 

In  1810,  a  large  boat,  loaded  with  upwards  of  200 
barrels  of  salt,  was  sailing  up  the  river,  from  Schlosser. 
The  wind  was  very  high,  and  the  boat  being  too  deeply 
laden,  the  swell  rolled  over  her,  and  she  sunk.  The 
mast  at  first  projected  out  of  the  water,  to  which  two  of 
the  crew  secured  themselves  ;  another,  there  being  but 
three  on  board,  seized  the  steering  oar,  on  which  he 
floated.  The  place  where  the  boat  sunk,  was  at  the 
upper  end  of  Navy  Island.  It  was  driven  along  by  the 
force  of  the  current,  the  boat  touching  the  bottom,  and, 
as  it  passed  down,  sinking  deeper  and  deeper.  At  length, 
the  swells  rolled  over  those  who  were  on  the  mast,  and 
at  times  they  would  sink  from  sight,  and  then,  when  the 
river  was  not  so  deep,  would  again  rise.  One  let  go  his 
hold,  and  made  for  the  shore,  but  soon  sunk  ;  the  other 
continued  his  hold  upon  the  mast,  until  lost  sight  of. 
Both  of  them,  without  doubt,  went  over  the  Falls.  The 
man  who  got  the  steering  oar,  succeeded  in  seating  him- 
self on  it,  and  was  drifting  down  the  river.  A  gentle- 
man, about  a  mile  from  Chippewa,  observing  him,  ran 
his  horse  to  that  village,  drove  some  men  in  a  boat,  and 
jumping  in  himself,  put  out,  lifted  the  exhausted  and 
helpless  man  with  difficulty  from  the  oar,  and  brought 
the  poor  fellow  safe  to  shore.  In  their  humane  exertions 
to  save  the  life  of  a  fellow  being,  they  got  so  far  in  the 


l\ 


JAUNT   TO   CANADA. 


141 


Canal  bunt  crosses  the  river. 


current,  os  to  come  very  near  going  over  the  Falls  them- 
selves. The  spirited  gentleman,  who  wns  the  means  of 
saving  this  man,  was  the  talented  and  well-known  Doct. 
John  J.  Laflferty,  of  Upper  Canada. 

The  occurrence  of  men's  passing  over  the  Falls  is  so 
frequent,  that  but  a  small  part  of  the  cases  can  be  enu- 
merated. It  being  so  very  dangerous  for  a  long  distance 
above,  it  might  be  supposed  that  people  would  be  more 
careful ;  but  they  seem  to  be  heedless  of  the  risk,  and 

sh  with  imprudence  upon  the  impetuous  and  deceiving 
waters.  In  1820,  two  men  were  so  neglectful  of  them- 
selves, as  to  fall  asleep  in  a  boat,  at  the  mouth  of  Chip- 
pewa Creek,  the  bow  of  which  lay  on  shore,  but  was 
not  fastened.  It  was  carried  out  in  the  stream,  and  was 
seen  to  cr.psize  in  the  rapids,  when  the  men  were  thrown 
out.  For  the  space  of  thirty  years,  hardly  a  year  has 
passed  without  hearing  of  one  or  more  persons  going 
over  the  Falls. 


CANAL     BOAT     INCIDENT. 

"  Destruction  moves  on  yon  descending  wave, 
A  seeming  miracle  alone  can  save." 

Besides  the  many  fatal  accidents  that  have  happened, 
there  have  been  a  great  many  narrow  escapes.  Only 
one,  however,  will  be  mentioned  here. 

A  canal  boat,  in  1832,  was  going  up  the  river,  from 
Chippewa.  When  two  miles  up,  the  towing  line  broke. 
The  captain  was  sick  below  ;  one  of  the  hands  drove  a 
horse  that  was  on  board  into  the  water,  and  he  swam 
ashore  ;    the  man,  also,  jumped  overboard,  and  reached 


142 


JAUNT   TO   CANADA. 


I 


'p 


Female  pieaciicc  of  mind. 


the  land.  Besides  the  captain,  there  was  lel't  on  board 
no  other  person  belonging  to  the  boat,  but  a  boy.  Of 
passengers,  there  were  two  men  and  a  woman.  A  trip 
over  the  Falls  appeared  inevitable.  The  wind  was  blow- 
ing freshly  across  the  river,  and  the  ready  presence  of 
mind  of  the  woman  suggested  that  some  of  the  bed- 
clothes should  be  got,  and  a  sail  erected.  No  time  was 
lost,  and  an  old  quilt  was  soon  hoisted  to  court  the  pro- 
pitious breeze.  They  made  way  over,  but  much  faster 
down.  It  was  in  the  forenoon  of  a  line  and  pleasant  day, 
their  situation  was  noticed  from  both  sides,  and  boats 
put  out  to  their  relief.  The  persons  were  taken  off  just 
before  reaching  the  rapids.  A  dog  only  was  left  to  pur- 
sue the  perilous  navigation.  The  boat  passed  down  near 
the  American  shore,  north  of  Iris  Island.  The  dog  re- 
mained on  deck  until  she  entered  the  rapids  ;  and  then, 
as  she  struck,  and  heaved  and  bounded  over  the  rocks, 
he  would  run  below,  look  out  of  the  cabin  door  —  then 
jump  on  deck,  and  cast  his  eyes  upon  the  water,  doing 
as  much  as  any  sailor  could  in  such  a  situation.  To  the 
inhabitants  of  the  village  of  Niagara  Falls,  the  boat  came 
suddenly  and  unexpectedly  hurrying  along  the  rapids. 
It  was  not  known  to  them  whether,  there  were  any  per- 
sons on  board  or  not.  It  was  the  season  when  the 
cholera  prevailed  at  Chippewa,  Buffalo,  Tonawanda, 
and  through  the  whole  course  of  the  Erie  Canal.  It  was 
common,  at  many  places,  when  infected  persons  were 
found  to  be  on  board  of  vessels  or  boats,  to  cause  the 
craft  to  be  anchored  out  in  the  stream.  It  was  the  gene- 
ral impression  that  this  was  an  infected  boat,  and  that  it 
was  probable  that  there  were  several  miserable  wretches 
below.  The  old  quilt  hanging  out,  and  the  filthy  and 
dismal  appearance  of  the  boat,  confirmed  the  impression. 


JAUiM'   TO   CANADA. 


14:^ 


Concert  IIoubc. 


board 
^     Of 

A  trip 
1  blow- 
3nce  of 
e  bed- 
ne  was 
lie  pro- 
i  faster 
nt  day, 
\  boats 
off  just 
to  pur- 
vn  near 
dog  re- 
^d  then, 
rocks, 
—  then 
,  doing 
To  the 
at  came 
rapids, 
my  per- 
len   the 
iwanda, 
It  was 
IS  were 
Eiuse  the 
le  gene- 
d  that  it 
vretches 
thy  and 
ression. 


With  these  opinions,  to  the  spectators  the  scene  was 
painfully  interesting,  as  the  boat  groaned  and  drove  along, 
every  moment  expecting  that  it  would  be  broken  to 
pieces.  It  however  made  a  lodgment  on  the  rocks,  just 
above  the  bridge  that  leads  to  the  island  ;  and  a  brave 
African  dashed  into  the  water  with  a  rope,  and  secured 
il  to  the  shore.  The  boat  was  not  badly  damaged,  and 
was  afterwards  hauled  out  and  transported  half  a  mile  by 
land  —  repaired,  and  again  launched  upon  the  water. 


The  building  standing  on  Table  Rock,  is  for  the  pur- 
pose of  forcing  water  to  the  village,  or,  as  it  was  called, 
the  City  of  the  Falls. 

The  first  house  on  the  hill,  after  passing  Mr.  Barnet's 
Tiuseum,  is  called  the  Concert  House.  It  was  erected 
for  the  double  purpose  of  being  used  as  a  bath  house  and 
for  concerts  and  assemblies.  In  the  summer  of  1838, 
it  was  a  barracks  for  soldiers  ;  and  a  beautiful  display  of 
white  canvas  tents  along  the  green  bank,  which  were 
occupied  by  the  43d  regiment,  added  considerably  to  the 
scenery  about  the  FaMs.  These  troops  had  every  week 
a  sham-fight,  making  a  handsome  sight  exceedingly 
novel  and  interesting  to  American  visiters. 

Guide. — "  Having  passed  over  all  the  great  views,  it 
is  customary  to  inquire  of  travellers  —  which  they  prefer, 
the  American  views  of  the  Falls,  or  the  Canadian  ?  " 

Traveller. — '*  I  percieve  that  it  is  true,  there  is  in 
Canada  one  grand  unvaried  view,  which  surpasses  any 
single  view  on  the  American  side  ,•  but  there  is  not  that 
variety,  that  enchanting  shifting  of  the  scene,  that  occurs 
as  we  pass  along  on  the  American  shore  and  islands." 


jri 


144 


JAUNT    TO    CANADA. 


(I 


r 


Smnuel  Street,  Edq. —  Col.  CInrk. 


While  the  party  are  yet  lingering  around  Table  Rock, 
sometimes  gazing  on  the  Falls,  making  inquiries,  and 
descanting  upon  the  surrounding  scenery,  several  ob- 
jects are  brought  to  their  notice. 

The  island  just  above  the  Fulls,  and  lying  nearly  level 
with  the  water,  is  called  Long  Island.  By  damming 
the  water  from  the  side  next  the  main  shore,  a  slight  in- 
jury is  done  to  the  prospect. 

The  island  about  half  a  mile  above  the  Falls,  which 
hugs  in  close  to  the  shore,  and  around  which  a  small 
brandi  of  the  Niagara  passes,  is  called  Round  Island,  and 
sometimes  Cynthia  Island. 

The  dwelling-house  embowered  in  trees,  below  the 
brow  of  the  hill,  and  beyond  the  mills  which  are  seen 
at  the  side  of  the  river,  is  the  residence  of  Samuel  Street, 
Esq.  an  American  gentleman,  long  resident  in  Canada, 
where  he  has  accumulated  great  wealth,  and  adopted  the 
principles  of  the  Provincial  government,  being  a  good 
and  loyal  subject. 

The  house  just  discernible  on  the  hill  beyond  Mr. 
Street's,  was  the  residence  of  Col.  Thomas  Clark,  now 
deceased,  and  long  the  partner  of  Mr.  Street.  He  was 
a  Scotchman,  and  represented  in  himself  an  excellent 
specimen  of  Scotch  nationality.  In  his  youth,  he  was 
as  strong  and  hardy  as  his  own  native  mountains.  At 
an  early  period,  he  performed  the  extraordinary  feat  of 
walking  from  the  Falls  of  the  Genesee  river  to  Black 
Rock,  on  the  Niagara,  in  one  day.  He  started  a  little 
before  sun-rise,  and  arrived  at  Black  Rock  before  nine 
at  night,  having  travelled  the  whole  distance  on  an  In- 
dian path.  He  was  a  man  of  great  capacity  in  business, 
and  very  exact  and  regular.  When  travelling,  a  few 
years  since,  in  company  with  the  author,  although  he 


at 


i: 


JAUNT   TO    CANADA. 


145 


llridjiewatcr. —  Cliippcwn. 


Rock, 
s,  and 
al  ob- 

y  level 
Timing 
ght  in- 

which 
a  small 
id,  and 

aw  the 
e  seen 
Street, 
panada, 
I  ted  the 
a  good 

\d  Mr. 

c,  now 
ie  was 
ccellent 
he  was 
s.  At 
feat  of 
Black 
a  little 
•e  nine 
an  In- 
lisiness, 
a  few 
ugh  he 


was  then  worth  millions,  the  Colonel  was  observed 
to  make  an  entry  in  a  pocket  memorandum  book  ;  and 
he  remarked  at  the  time  **  I  have  never  spent  a  sixpence 
without  mnking  a  regular  entry  and  account  of  it,  and 
I  do  So  still."  H^  left  a  great  estate  to  three  already 
wealthy  maiden  '.-rtcn  in  Scotland,  and  Canada  (where 
his  wealth  had  bv       .Made,)  was  forgotten  in  his  will. 

At  the  upper  end  of  Round  Island,  is  the  place  called 
Bridgewater.  There  was  once  on  this  spot  extensive 
mills,  and  quite  a  little  village.  The  works  had  been 
erected  at  great  expense,  and  much  labor  bestowed  upon 
the  bank  to  prevent  slides  ;  but  during  the  last  war,  the 
hand  of  destruction  was  stretched  over  the  rising  pros- 
pects of  the  place,  and  the  mills  and  most  of  the  houses 
of  the  village  were  burnt.  Since  then,  it  has  been  aban- 
doned, and  almost  forgotten.  There  is  now  nothing 
to  interest,  but  the  burning  spring.  In  1838,  the  water 
of  the  river  was  so  high  as  to  cover  the  spring.  When 
it  is  in  a  state  to  collect  the  gas,  travellers  very  generally 
go  to  it. 

Two  miles  from  the  Falls,  is  Chippewa,  a  villagi;  of 
considerable  consequence,  and  more  noted  from  its  con- 
tiguity to  the  great  battle  which  took  place  in  1814.  It 
was  fought  just  above  the  town,  and  the  ground  is  now 
undistinguishable  in  any  way  except  by  fields  and  enclo- 
sures. In  the  winter  of  1837 — 8,  Chippewa  was  the  scene 
of  action  of  McNabb's  forces.  There  they  erected  bat- 
teries, whence  shells  and  rockets  were  thrown  on  Navy 
Island. 


The  party  now  pass  from  Table  Rock,  and  if  they 
conclude  to  remain  for  some  time  in  Canada,  they  go  to 

the  Pavilion,  or  return  to  Clifton  House  ;  and  at  their 

10 


. 


146 


JAUNT   TO   CANADA. 


City  of  the  Falls. 


leisure  visit  Drummondville  —  go  to  the  Whirlpool  on 
the  British  aide,  which  is  four  miles  —  to  Brock's  monu- 
ment and  Queenston,  eight  miles  —  Niigara  and  Fort 
George,  fourteen  miles.  If  they  conclude  to  return  to 
the  American  shore,  they  take  a  new  route  back,  by 
rising  the  hill  near  the  Pavilion,  and  thence  pass  on  to 
Drummondville,  and  round  to  the  Ferry. 


THE     CITY     OF     THE     FALLS. 


fti: 


■  1 ' 

i 

i 

^J 

The  property  of  William  Forsyth,  comprising  about 
four  hundred  acres  of  land,  and  lying  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  Falls,  was  purchased  some  years  since  by 
Thomas  Clark,  Samuel  Street,  and  a  number  of  other 
gentlemen.  The  grounds  were  laid  out  into  squares  and 
streets,  suitably  for  the  accommodation  of  a  large  city. 
An  act  of  incorporation  was  talked  of,  in  which  foreign- 
ers were  to  be  allowed  some  special  privileges,  and  mea- 
sures were  taken  for  the  encouragement  of  those  disposed 
to  purchase  and  build.  Some  sales  were  made.  For  a 
while,  the  prospect  was  favorable,  and  several  advanta- 
ges were  offered  to  induce  people  to  make  investments  ; 
and  more  would  have  done  so,  but  the  proprietors  be- 
coming lax  in  their  measures,  improvements  stopped, 
and  *he  place  has  been  stationary  for  some  years.  As  it 
is  a  commanding  situation,  on  a  dry  and  pleasant  soil, 
and  enjoys  some  of  the  finest  prospects  in  the  world,  it 
only  requires  the  encouragement  which  the  proprietors 
can  well  afford,  to  have  it  go  ahead  at  any  time  they  may 
think  proper  to  determine.  It  has  around  it  a  flourish- 
ing country,  thickly  populated  by  wealthy  freeholders, 
whose  farms  are  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation.^ 


\ 


JAUNT   TO   CANADA. 


147 


Druinmondville. —  Lundy's  Lane. 


ool  on 
inonu- 
d  Fort 
turn  to 
ick,  by 
on  to 


T  about 
mediate 
since  by 
>f  other 
ires  and 
ge  city, 
foreign- 
ad  mea- 
lisposed 
For  a 
idvanta- 
mePts  ; 
ors  be- 
jtopped, 
As  it 
nt  soil, 
orld,  it 
prietors 
ley  may 
lourish- 
holder§5 


The  Pavilion  Hotel  was  erected  by  William  Forsyth  ; 
it  is  a  large  building,  calculated  for  the  accommodation 
of  many  guests,  and  is  kept  by  an  accommodating  land- 
lord. 

William  Forsyth  was  one  of  the  first  settlers  of  the 
country  ;  a  man  of  enterprising  character,  and  one  who 
did  much  making  improvements  around  the  Falls. 

On  the  19th  of  February,  1839,  at  five  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon,  just  after  the  above  short  notice  in  relation  to 
the  Pavilion  Hotel  was  written,  the  building  took  fire 
and  was  burnt  down.  It  continued  burning  for  some 
time  in  the  evening.  The  spectacle  was  grand  and  so- 
lemn. The  building  was  very  large,  and  composed  en- 
tirely of  wood.  The  light  reflected  upon  the  rising  spray 
from  the  Falls,  and  upon  the  trees  covered  with  con- 
gealed ice.  The  cloud  of  mist  appeared  like  another 
conflagration,  and  to  persons  at  a  distance  was  taken  to 
be  such.  The  ice  on  the  trees  reflected  back  the  blazing 
light,  and  shone  brilliantly  in  the  keen  pure  air  like 
burning  coal.  Though  thus  dazzling,  yet  it  was  a  sad 
and  painful  sight. 


DRUMMONDVILLE. 

"  AVliat  boots  the  oft  repeated  tale  of  strife, 
Tlie  t'eatst  of  vultures,  and  the  waste  of  life." 

This  flourishing  village  stands  on  the  ground  on  which 
the  mis-named  battle  of  Bridgewater  took  place.  It  is 
more  properly  known  as  the  battle  of  Lundy's  Lane. 
After  the  battle,  the  American  dead  were  thrown  into  a 
heap  and  burnt,  and  the  Indians  carried  some  of  the 


•I 


148 


JAUNT   TO   CANADA. 


General  Brock's  Monument. 


wounded  who  were  yet  alive  to  share  the  same  fate,  but 
were  stayed  in  their  inhuman  conduct  by  the  exertions 
of  the  British  soldiers.  Of  one,  it  is  related,  that  seeing 
an  Indian  dragging  a  wounded  American  to  the  flames, 
who  was  begging  for  his  life,  he  despatched  the  Indian, 
threw  his  body  in  the  heap,  and  saved  the  American. 
This  was  the  greatest  battle  which  took  place  on  the 
frontier.  The  report  of  the  cannon  was  heard  for  the 
distance  of  a  hundred  miles,  and,  to  persons  within  four 
or  five  miles,  the  incessant  discharcrc  of  fire  arms  sounded 
like  the  continuous  roll  of  a  drurix.  The  roar  of  the 
Falls  was  not  heard  amid  this  din  of  human  combat. 


BROCK   S     MONUMENT. 


"  Away,  away,  earth's  pageantry, 

Her  brightest  gems  are  dim  •, 
And  glittering  wealth,  and  power  and  fame, 

How  worthless  now  to  him." 


Brock's  Monument  stands  on  Queenston  heights,  a 
short  distance  south  of  the  village.  It  is  built  of  a  soft 
whitish  stone,  taken  out  of  the  mountain  near  by.  The 
base  is  twenty  feet  square,  the  shaft  round,  and  rises  one 
hundred  and  twenty  six  feet  from  the  ground.  It  cost 
about  eight  thousand  dollars,  and  was  built  at  the  ex- 
pense of  the  Provincial  government.  It  occupies  a  beau- 
tiful and  commanding  site,  and  overlooks  Fort  Grey,  on 
the  American  side,  a  large  battery  erected  mainly  to 
cover  the  attack  upon  Queenston,  and  the  roads  and 
cultivated  farms  beyond  the  opposite  heights  tor  several 
miles.     Below  lies  Lewiston,  with  its  streets  and  or- 


JAUNT   TO  CANADA. 


149 


Extensive  prospect. 


chards  spread  out  before  the  spectator  as  a  garden,  and 
from  which  passes  to  the  east  the  celebrated  Ridge  Road. 
Thence  along  the  brow  of  the  heights,  the  prospect  ex- 
tends north  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  and  across  Lake 
Ontario  to  its  northern  bounds.  On  the  Canada  side, 
the  view  is  equally  fine.  The  beautiful  little  village  of 
St.  David's,  distant  but  a  few  miles  at  the  west,  peeps 
out  from  under  the  diverging  hills  ;  and  far  beyond,  a 
large  tract  of  level  country,  interspersed  with  improved 
farms,  but  generally  appearing  like  a  dense  forest,  to  the 
shore  of  the  lake.  Below,  and  directly  in  front,  is  the 
antique-looking  village  of  Queenston,  and  the  Niagara 
river,  bending  its  serpentine  course  to  the  lake,  and 
forming  the  boundary  of  two  great  nations.  At  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  on  the  American  side,  rise  the  for- 
tifications of  old  Fort  Niagara,  and  where  is  beheld  wa- 
ving in  the  breeze  the  standard  of  liberty.  On  the  Bri- 
tish side,  is  the  town  of  Niagara  and  Fort  George,  where 
floats  the  proud  banner  of  England,  the  crosses  of  St. 
George  and  St.  Andrew.  Long  may  they  wave  together 
in  peace. 

General  Brock  was  a  valiant  man.  He  did  not  fall  on 
the  spot  where  the  monument  is  erected,  but  down  the 
hill,  in  a  northwesterly  direction,  about  80  rods  distant, 
near  a  cherry  tree,  in  the  rear  of  Queenston.  He  was 
at  the  head  of  his  men,  cheering  them  on  to  action.  He 
was  first  interred  in  the  northeastern  bastion  of  Fort 
George,  and  a  24  pound  American  cannon  captured  with 
Hull,  placed  at  his  head.  After  the  monument  was  built, 
his  remains,  with  those  of  his  aid.  Col.  McDonald,  were 
deposited  here  with  much  pomp,  on  one  of  the  anniver- 
saries of  the  battle  of  Queenston. 

To  Americans,  this  monument  must  cause  but  one 
emotion — sorrow  for  their  fellow  citizens  who  fell  in 


150 


JAUNT   TO   CANADA. 


Town  of  Niagara. 


that  ill  fated  battle.  One  part  of  that  badly  directed  and 
bloody  conflict,  beheld  by  an  eye  witness,  is  sufficient. 
A  short  distance  below  the  monument  stands  a  log- house. 
Towards  the  close  of  the  battle,  a  portion  of  the  Ameri- 
cans were  driven  down  the  hill,  and,  as  many  ng  could, 
crowded  into  the  house.  For  a  short  period,  they  fired 
on  their  pursuers  from  the  doors  and  windows  ;  but  for 
some  moments  after  they  ceased  firing,  the  enemy  con- 
tinued to  fire  in  upon  them.  This  sight,  with  the  pite- 
ous cries  of  our  .^rowning  countrymen,  who  sought  to 
escape  the  carnage  of  that  day,  by  endeavoring  to  swim 
the  Niagara,  makes  Brock's  Monument,  to  those  Ameri- 
cans who  were  eye  witnesses,  no  object  of  veneration. 


TOWN     OF      NIAGARA. 


I  ^ 


5    « 


This  is  one  of  the  oldest  settlements  in  Canada.  It  is 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  and  is 
bounded  on  the  north  by  Lake  Ontario.  It  once  had  the 
prospect  of  being  an  important  place,  and  had  all  the 
advantages  that  insure  prosperity  ;  but  it  has  not  ad- 
vanced as  was  expected.  Many  of  its  most  wealthy  and 
enterprising  men  have  carried  their  business  and  resour- 
ces to  other  places  ;  others  appear  to  have  slumbered  over 
the  advantages  which  they  enjoyed  at  home,  and  suffered 
their  neighbors  to  advance  ahead  of  them.  Still  it  is  a 
place  of  considerable  wealth,  more  enterprise  is  evinced, 
and  from  its  fine  location,  it  must  eventually  arrive  to 
eminence  and  respectability, 

Niagara,  in  the  fall  of  1813,  while  in  possession  of 
the  American  forces,  was  ordered  to  be  destroyed.     It 


JAUNT   TO   CANADA. 


151 


Bnttle  of  Fort  George. 


was  considered  necessary  to  evacuate  the  place,  and,  to 
prevent  its  becoming  a  shelter  for  the  enemy,  an  order 
was  issued  that  it  should  be  burnt.  Let  no  American 
speak  of  such  acts,  no  matter  from  whence  they  emanate, 
without  bestowing  on  them  that  censure,  and  the  full 
measure  of  indignation  which  they  so  justly  deserv-e. 


BATTLE     OF     FORT     GEORGE. 

"  Strange  visions  come,  on  rushing  wing, 

To  bear  nie  to  the  battle  track  •, 
And  I  can  see  the  vvur-iiorse  spring 

Forward  again,  as  when  his  track 
Was  marked  with  blood ;  anil,  though  my  ear 

No  sound  c;;u  catcii  that  speaks  of  strife, 
My  scattered  comrades  gathered  here, 

Seem  round  and  near  me,  ab  in  life." 


I 


Tne  spring  of  1813  opened  auspiciously  for  the  Ame- 
rican arms,  by  the  capture  of  Little  York.  Gen.  Dear- 
born then  drew  his  forces  to  Fort  Niagara.  On  the  night 
of  the  26th  of  May,  a  tremendous  cannonading  was 
opened  upon  Fort  George  and  Fort  Missassauga,  from 
the  American  ibrt  and  several  batteries  along  the  banks 
of  the  river.  Red-hot  shot  and  shells  poured  in  upon 
those  places  incessantly.  Cross-fires  were  directed  upon 
each  important  point,  until  it  became  untenable,  or  was 
demolished.  When  the  morning  of  the  27th  was  ushered 
in,  the  British  forts  were  enveloped  in  flames.  On  the 
lake,  anchored  about  a  mile  from  the  shore,  lay  the  fleet 
of  Commodore  Chauncey.  Around  the  fleet,  ready  to 
move  forward,  were  two  hundred  boats  filled  with  men, 
whose  armor  glittered  in  the  rays  of  the  rising  sun.  The 


152 


JAUNT   TO   CANADA. 


Betty  Feathers. 


artillery  of  the  fleet  joined  in,  the  boats  put  off',  and, 
under  cover  of  the  cannon,  soon  effected  a  landing.  The- 
British  poured  down  upon  them,  as  they  landed,  a  few 
effective  discharges  ;  but  the  Americans,  rushing  up  the 
bank,  stopped  at  the  edge  and  fired  over  ;  then  stooping 
below,  loaded  and  fired  again.  From  this  place  of  se- 
curity, they  could  not  be  dislodged,  and  the  balls  of  the 
enemy  could  not  reach  them.  The  deadly  fire  \vhich 
they  poured  upon  the  British,  soon  obliged  them  to  give 
way.  The  Americans  rose  over  the  bank,  and  their  ad- 
versaries retreated.  The  battle  was  soon  won,  but  they 
did  not  reap  the  advantages  of  that  glorious  day.  They 
suiTered  the  enemy  to  escape,  to  re-or^anize,  to  defeat, 
and  in  a  short  time  afterwards  to  expel  them  from  the 
country. 


BETTY     FEATHERS. 

"  Wail  on,  sad  notes,  wail  on  ! 
Ye  seem,  thus  munnuring  on  the  still  night  air, 

In  plaintive  symphonies  that  dirge-like  moan, 
The  utterance  of  some  broken  heart's  despair, 

hopes  coldly  crushed,  for  joys  for  ever  gone." 


The  ferry  which  is  now  established  from  Niagara,  in 
Canada,  to  Youngstown,  on  the  American  side,  was 
formerly  to  Fort  Niagara.  In  the  summer  season,  it  is 
very  pleasant  crossing,  but  frequently  in  winter  the  cur- 
rent is  filled  with  ice,  and  it  is  dangerous.  Sometimes, 
the  boat  and  passengers  are  carried  into  the  lake,  and 
are  rescued  thence  at  great  risk  and  suffering  ;  but  fre- 
quently fatal  accidents  have  happened,  and  the  unfortu 
nate  sufferers  have  been  driven  beyond  the  reach  of  help, 
and  have  perished  in  the  lake. 


JAUNT   TO   CANADA. 


153 


A  disaster. 


Many  years  ayo,  there  was  a  woman  by  the  name  of 
Betty  Feathers,  a  resident  in  Canada,  b.u  a  free  denizen 
on  both  sides  of  the  river.     Before  she  became  such,  her 
husband,  John  Feathers,  was  the  ferryman.     One  day, 
wlien  the  crossing  had  been  unusually  difficult,  towards 
night  John  was  observed  to  start   from  the  American 
shore.     Before  he  reached  the  middle  of  the  river,  his 
boat  was  completely  surrounded  with  ice.     At  the  same 
time,  there  came  on  a  dark  and  heavy  snow  mist,  which 
hid  him  from  sight,  and  probably  prevented  him  from 
seeing  the  shore.     Betty  went  down  to  the  river,  and 
called  **  John  !    John  1    John  I  "     No  reply  was  made, 
and  no  object  could  be  seen.     The  neighbors,  too,  turned 
out,  to  render  her  such  assistance  as  they  could.     They 
called,  they  shouted,  and  did  all  in  their  power  to  indi- 
cate to  the  sufferer  his  proper  direction.     Betty,  with 
steady  monotony,  at  intervals,  screamed  **  John  !  John  ! 
John  !  "    Night  came  on,  and  the  darkness  was  intense  ; 
still,  the  voice  of  Betty  was  heard.     She  would  call  — 
listen  —  and  then  call  again.     The  neighbors  gave  over  ; 
they  concluded  that  John  was  lost  —  that  he  had  already 
perished  with  the  cold,  or  that  he  was  still  floating  on 
the  trackless  lake,  surrounded  with  ice,  and  beyond  their 
help.     They  attempted  to  soothe  Betty,  and  to  persuade 
her  to  return  to  the  house ;    but  she  heeded  them  not, 
and  her  voice  still  sounded  loud  and  shrill,  and  **  John  ! 
John  !  "   vibrated  across  the  deep.     She  censed  not  to 
call,  until  she  sank  exhausted,  and  was  conveyed  help- 
less to  her  bed.     John  never  returnea,   and  no  vestige  of 
of  him  or  his  boat  was  ever  found.    Betty  recovered,  but 
her  reason  was  gone,  and  she  beca  me  a  poor  and  lonely 
wanderer,  going  from  house  to  house.    John  wa3  always 
in  her  mind  ;   and,  as  long  as  she  lived,  she  would  often 


\t 


»■  f 


"1  }! 


til 


y  '11 


154 


JAUNT   TO   CANADA, 


A  witch  story. 


at  the  close  of  day,  and  in  the  darkness  of  the  night,  go 
to  the  beach,  and  looking  over  the  broad  expanse  of  the 
lake,  call  out  **  John  I  John  !   John  !  " 

She  lived  a  little  while  in  one  place,  and  then  a  while 
in  another.  As  she  grew  old,  she  became  as  much  an 
object  of  fear  as  of  pity.  She  had  some  singularity,  and 
a  good  deal  of  asperity  of  temper.  At  last,  she  was  by 
many  called  a  witch.  At  one  time,  in  winter,  she  hap- 
pened to  be  in  a  bar-room  at  Fort  Niagara.  The  room 
was  warmed  with  a  stove.  There  were  several  soldiers 
in  the  room,  whose  conversation  did  not  suit  her,  and 
she  said  '*  If  you  don't  be  still,  I  will  break  your  stove." 
They  laughed,  and  continued  their  remarks.  The  stove 
on  the  instant  cracked  in  two,  with  a  considerable  report, 
and  fell  apart.  *'  There,"  she  said,  **  I  told  you  I 
would  break  your  stove,"  and  immediately  left  the  room. 

At  another  time,  she  had  been  staying  for  a  couple 
of  weeks  at  a  neighboring  farmer's  house.  One  day, 
when  the  farmer  was  absent,  Betty  said  to  his  wife 
"  Get  the  pail,  I  want  you  to  go  wiih  me  to  the  woods." 
**  What  for  ?  "  inquired  the  woman.  *^  I  will  tell  you 
when  we  get  there,"  returned  Betty.  The  woman  was 
not  in  good  health,  and  fearing  her,  endeavored  to  ex- 
cuse herself  from  going,  by  saying  there  was  snow  on 
the  ground,  and  it  was  too  damp  for  her  go  out."  Betty 
persisted,  and  said  she  must  go,  or  she  would  whip  her. 
The  woman,  in  apprehension  of  her  life,  started,  in  the 
hope  that  she  might  find  some  way  to  escape.  When 
they  came  to  the  fence,  by  the  woods,  she  again  remon- 
strated ;  but  Betty  showed  so  much  violence,  that  she 
hastily  sprang  over,  and  after  running  a  short  distance 
in  the  woods,  darted  off  to  a  neighbor's  house,  vv^here 
her  husband  found  her.  Betty  did  uot  return,  and  was 
seen  no  more  on  that  quarter. 


TOUR  THROUGH  CANADA. 


ROUTES  FROM  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


>» 


Travellers,  when  in  the  western  part  of  the  State  of 
New  York,  frequently  come  to  the  conclusion  to  make 
a  tour  in  Canada,  and  not  having  provided  themselves 
with  suitable  directions,  at  times  require  information 
which  they  find  it  very  difficult  to  obtain. 

For  the  convenience  of  those  who  wish  to  extend  their 
journey  beyond  the  Falls,  the  following  information, 
though  foreign  to  the  object  of  this  work,  has  been 
brought  together,  at  the  suggestion  of  a  friend.  The 
Falls,  of  late  years,  have  become  very  justly  the  great 
centre  of  attraction,  which  usually  receive  the  first  visit 
of  tourists,  and  thence  they  branch  off  to  scenes  of  less 
magnitude,  as  business  or  curiosity  leads  them. 

The  city  of  Buffalo  is  the  place  of  general  embakation 
for  all  the  countries,  lakes,  and  rivers  beyond.  Tho 
traveller  can  reach  Buffalo  from  the  Falls,  on  the  Canada 
side,  by  stage  or  rail-road,  to  Chippewa,  2  miles,  and 
thence  by  steam-boat,  20  miles  ;  or,  by  crossing  the  ferry 
at  the  Falls,  to  the  American  side,  he  will  find  it  plea- 
sant travelling  on  the  Buffido  and  Niagara  Falls  rail-road, 
as  a  considerable  portion  of  the  route  runs  by  the  side  of 
the  river.  At  Buffalo,  steam-boats  start  for  Detroit  and 
intermediate  ports,  daily.  It  is  usual  for  persons  visiting 
Maiden,  Sandwich,  or  other  portions  of  Canada  west  of 
those  places,  to  take  steam-boat  from  Buffalo. 


h 


<;l 


i 


I 
I       ! 


156 


TOUR    THROUGH   CANADA. 


I*i;ic<'s  in  the  nciKhborliood  of  the.  Fulls. 


If  the  tourist  confines  his  ramble  within  a  short  com- 
pass, there  are,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Falls,  several  pla- 
ces that  may  attract  his  attention,  besides  those  that  have 
wocii  mentioned. 

Allensbiirgh,  8  miles  west  from  the  Falls,  is  a  small 
village  on  the  Wclland  Canal ;  a  good  road  leads  to  it, 
which  passes  through  a  fine  country. 

St.  David's,  6  miles  north  from  the  Falls,  is  a  pretty 
retired  village  ;  it  lies  below  the  mountain  ridge,  2  miles 
vi'^est  of  Queenston. 

The  Deep  Cut,  8  miles  from  the  Falls,  has  its  name 
from  the  circumstance  of  the  Welland  Canal,  at  this  place, 
being  cut  nearly  100  feet  in  the  mountain. 

St.  Catherine's,  10  miles.  The  Welland  Canal  runs 
through  it.  It  is  a  thriving  village,  and  of  considerable 
business. 

Hamilton  is  distant  40  miles,  and  50  miles  by  steam- 
boat navigation  from  Niagara.  It  is  near  the  head  of  Lake 
Ontario.  It  is  situated  on  a  beautiful  plain,  skirted  on 
one  side  by  the  mountain  and  on  the  other  by  the  green 
waters  of  the  lake.  It  is  one  of  the  first-class  of  towns 
in  the  Upper  Province,  and  is  a  very  business-like 
place. 

Brantford,  on  Grand  River,  is  25  miles  further. 
Along  the  borders  of  Grand  River  reside  the  remains  of 
the  Mohawk  Indians,  who,  under  Brant,  having  taken 
sides  with  the  British  government,  in  the  revolutionary 
war,  had  a  large  tract  of  valuable  land  allotted  to  them 
on  the  borders  of  this  river. 

There  is  a  line  of  stages  which  run  daily  from  Lewis- 
ton  and  Queenston,  through  Canada  to  Detroit,  passing 
through  St.  David's,  St.  Catherine's,  Hamilton,  Ancas- 
ter,  Brantford,  and  London. 


TOUR    THROUGH    CANADA. 


157 


I'oronto. 


Toronto  is  44  milca  from  the  Foils,  on  the  northern 
side  of  the  lake,  and  300  miles  by  land.  This  city  is  the 
capital  of  Upper  Canada.  It  is  built  by  the  side  of  the 
bay  of  the  same  name.  The  fortifications  are  at  a  short 
distance  from  the  city,  on  a  point  of  land  which  com- 
mands the  entrance  into  the  harbor.  There  arc  several 
well-built  streets  in  Toronto,  and  many  government 
and  other  buildings  of  ample  dimensions  and  in  good 
style.  The  precincts  around  the  city  are  handsomely 
improved.  Orchards,  gardens,  and  the  dwellings  of 
genteel  people  are  seen  in  every  direction.  The  lands 
about  Toronto  are  very  fertile,  and  for  many  miles  in  all 
directions  the  country  is  well  populated  by  able  farmers. 

Travellers  from  the  American  or  British  c'de  can  em- 
bark on  board  of  steam-boats  at  Lewiston  or  Queenston, 
or  at  any  of  the  ports  on  the  river  below,  for  Hamilton, 
Toronto,  Kingston,  or  for  the  American  ports  on  the 
lake,  or  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  If  the  tourist  desires  to  go 
to  the  Lower  Province,  he  can  either  take  a  steam-boat 
from  the  Niagara  river,  or,  if  he  prefer  an  overland  route 
for  a  short  distance,  he  can  take  the  rail-road  cars,  and 
pass  through  the  villages  of  Pekin  and  Lockport ;  thence 
by  packet  or  stage  and  rail-road,  to  the  city  of  Rochester, 
tiie  whole  distance  80  miles,  and  at  Rochester  embark 
on  board  of  steam  boat  down  the  lake.  Those  travellers 
who  did  not  come  to  the  Falls  by  this  route,  will  find  it 
a  very  pleasant  one  to  take  on  their  return.  The  ride  on 
the  rail-road,  along  the  brow  of  the  mountain,  is  delight- 
ful.  The  great  combined  locks  at  Lockport,  and  the 
thousands  of  laborers  now  engaged  in  blasting  the  rocks 
and  excavating  the  earth  for  the  enlarged  canal,  are  well 
worth  seeing.  The  number,  too,  of  beautiful  and  flour- 
ishing villages  along  this  route  —  the  rich  and  prosper- 


158 


TCUR    THROUGH    CANADA. 


1- 


m' 


¥ 


i     ■: 


Dibtances  on  Luke  Ontario. 


ous  country  —  the  city  of  Rochester  —  ihe  great  aque- 
duct—  the  lulls  of  the  Genesee  river  —  are  all  objects  of 
great  interest. 

To  Oswego,  from  Rochester,  by  the  lake,  is  G3  miles. 
**  Sackot's  Uurboi,  Ironi  Oswego,  40  miles. 
**  C'npe  Vincent,  frota  Sackei's  Harb-  r,  20  miles. 

Kingston,  Upper  Canada,  lies  opposite  Cnpe  Vincent, 
and  distant  11  miles.  This  place  was  formerly  Fort 
Frontinac  ;  it  is  built  on  the  northern  shore  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  at  its  junction  with  Lake  Ontario.  The  ri- 
ver is  here  10  miles  wide.  The  Thousand  Islands  com- 
mence i  in  mediately  below  Kingston,  and  are  scatterad  in 
the  river  for  a  distance  of  50  miles.  The  fortifications 
at  Kingston  are  of  considerable  strength,  and  in  refer- 
ence to  military  and  naval  operations,  it  is  considered  an 
important  point. 

The  Ridcau  Canal  commences  in  the  bay;  and  is  five 
miles  from  Kingston.  It  was  built  at  the  expense  of  the 
British  government,  and  principally  for  military  pur- 
poses, in  affording  an  internal  communication  between 
the  Upper  and  Lower  Provinces.  The  whole  distance 
from  Kingston,  by  the  Rideau  canal,  to  Montreal,  is28D 
miles.  There  is  a  variety  of  interesting  objects  along 
the  canal  —  the  Rideau  and  Ottawa  rivers,  the  cataract 
of  the  Chaudine,  the  Rideau  falls,  extensive  lakes,  and 
some  pleasant  villages. 

By  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  distances  are  —  to  Brock- 
ville,  from  Kingston,  50  miles  ;  Morristown  lies  oppo- 
site, on  the  American  side.  To  Prescott,  from  Brock- 
ville,  20  miles,  and  the  same  to  Ogdensburgh,  U.  S. 
To  the  head  of  the  Long  Sault  is  38  miles  ;  thence  to 
Cjrnwall  is  12  miles  ;  thence  to  the  Cascades,  16  miles  ; 
thence  to  Lachine,  24  miles  ;  thence  to  Montreal,  9  m. 


TOUR    THROUGH    CANADA. 


159 


Rlvcr  St.  Lawrence. 


The  ilistnnce  from  Kingaton,  by  the  St.  Lawrence,  to 
Montreul  is  210  miles.  The  fine  scenery  along  the  river, 
of  hikes  and  rapids,  of  islands  and  rocky  sliorcs,  of  wild 
and  picturcs(iuc  views,  of  rising  towns  and  elegant  seats, 
and  the  many  scenes  made  memorable  by  historical 
events,  always  charm  and  amuse  the  traveller. 

Jiosidj3  the  many  objects  which  the  city  of  Montreal 
afl'ords  to  attract  the  attention  of  the  tourist,  the  village 
ofVarcnncs,  on  account  of  its  medical  spring  and  fine 
prospect,  has  become  a  place  of  much  resort.  The  vil- 
lage is  15  miles  from  the  city,  and  the  spring  is  about  a 
mile  from  the  village.  A  steam-boat  run?  from  Mon- 
treal to  this  place  twice  a  day,  and  the  boats  that  ply  to 
and  from  Quebec  usually  stop. 

Pursuing  the  route  down  the  river,  William  Henry  is 
40  miles  from  Montreal.  It  is  on  the  bank  of  the  river 
Sorol,  where  it  unites  with  the  St.  Lawrence. 

The  next  place  of  importance  is  the  Three  Rivers,  at 
the  mouth  of  the  St.  Maurice.  Some  miles  up  the  St. 
Maurice,  are  the  falls  of  the  Shawinnegame,  of  100  feet. 

The  Richelieu  rapids  commence  7  miles  below  the 
Three  Rivers.  The  navigation  is  considered  dangerous 
in  the  night,  and  by  steam-boats  the  rapids  are  always 
passed  in  the  day  time. 

The  distance  to  Quebec  from  Montreal,  by  steam-ooat, 
is  180  miles.  The  traveller  having  arrived  in  this  city, 
so  celebrated  for  the  many  great  events  of  which  it  has 
been  the  theatre,  and  for  its  strong  fortifications,  will, 
at  his  leisure,  accompanied  by  some  well-informed  citi- 
zen, or  hired  guide,  visit  all  the  locations  and  objects  of 
attraction  within  and  around  the  city. 

The  Falls  of  Montmorenci  are  eight  miles  northeast 
of  Quebec,  on  the  river  of  the  same  name,  and  near  the 


160 


TOUR   THROUGH   CANADA. 


Quebec. —  Falls  of  Montniorenci. 


St.  Lawrence.  The  height  of  the  Fall  is  240  feet,  or  72 
feet  higher  than  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  but  the  immense 
volume  of  water  of  the  great  cataract  is  wanting.  The 
falling  sheet  is  about  100  feet  wide,  or  about  the  same 
width  as  that  of  the  crescent  or  centre  fall  of  Niagara, 
which  passes  over  Ingraham's  Cave.  The  great  height, 
however,  of  these  Falls,  and  the  singular  beauty  which 
pervades  the  whole  wild  and  romantic  scene,  is  the  ad- 
miration of  all  who  have  had  an  opportunity  of  beholding 
them. 

On  the  route  between  the  Falls  of  Montmorenci  and 
the  city,  is  the  Indian  village  Lorette.  Some  beautiful 
views  of  the  surrounding  and  distant  scenery  is  afforded 
from  this  village. 

There  are  several  other  places  in  the  vicinity  of  Que- 
bec of  considerable  interest,  which  are  pointed  out  to 
strangers,  and  are  frequently  visited. 

In  returning,  the  usual  route  is  back  to  Montreal ; 
thence  by  steam-boat  to  La  Prairie,  7  miles  ;  thence  by 
rail-road  to  St.  John's,  17  miles  ;  again  by  steam-boat 
to  Isle  Aux  Noix,  14  miles  ;  Rouse's  Point,  10  miles  ; 
Chazy,  12  miles  ;  Plattsburgh,  15  miles ;  Burlington, 
26  miles ;  Brown  Point,  38  miles ;  Ticonderoga,  15 
miles ;  White  Hall,  24  miles  ;  and  thence  to  Albany, 
72  miles. 


I 


MISCELLANEOUS   NOTICES. 


^lEDlCINAL     VIRTUES      OF     THE     AIR     AT 
NIAGARA     FALLS, 


1 


This  mr,y  nppcar  stnnling-,  though  it  is  indeed  nothing 
more  than  what  is  admitied  by  ail  who  have  spolven  or 
thought  on  the  subject.  While  some  waters  possess  pro- 
perties, the  medical  viriues  of  which  are  admitled,  others 
are  delclcrious.  So  wiih  airs  :  while  some  are  destruc- 
tive to  animal  life,  others  are  ambrosial,  grateful,  and 
invigoraling.  That  there  is  not  only  a  salutary  and  ex- 
4iiliraiing  quulily  in  the  atmosphere  of  Niagara  Falls,  but 
also  superior  medical  viriues,  is  believed  by  many.  No 
epidemics  have  prevailed  here.  When  the  cholera  raged 
through  all  the  country,  no  case  ocurred  within  the  do- 
main of  the  misty  cloud.  Here  there  are  no  poisonous 
vapors  arising  from  stagnant  pools ;  no  miasma  from 
marshes  or  swamps  ;  but  the  moisture  with  which  the 
air  is  saiuraied,  is  driven  up  from  the  fall  of  broken  wa- 
ters—  not  raised  by  the  influences  of  heat  or  cold,  but 
purified  and  buoyani,  it  floats  away  from  the  clear  stream, 
and  we  breathe  it,  charged  as  it  is  with  ten  thousand  par- 
ticles, fresh  from  nature's  great  alembic.     We  not  only 

see  and  hear,  but  feel,  and  taste,  and  breathe  the  Falls. 

11 


162 


MISCELLANEOUS   NOTICES. 


Geology  of  Niagara  river. 


GEOLOGY     OF     NIAGARA     RIVER. 

Here  is  a  great  field  for  geological  and  mineral  re- 
search. The  rocks  in  many  places  are  laid  bare  to  a  great 
depth,  and  many  of  the  most  interesting  spots  for  such 
examinations  have  never  yet  been  visited,  owing  to  the 
difficulty  of  gottiug  to  them.  Slight  notices  of  the  form- 
ation and  chaiactcr  of  the  rocks  in  this  neighborhood 
have  been  laid  before  the  public,  by  the  New  York  State 
geologists,  but  it  is  not  known  that  they  have  devoted 
much  time  to  a  careful  examination.  There  are  known 
to  be  saline  waters  at  the  Five  Mile  Meadows,  and  sul- 
phurous and  gas  springs  upon  the  mountain.  Argilla- 
ceous iron  ore  is  found  on  the  bank  of  the  river  ;  many 
specimens  of  lead  ore  are  obtained,  and  in  one  instance 
a  large  lump  of  several  pounds  was  picked  up.  Common 
and  water  lime,  and  building  stone  are  abundant,  and 
gypsum  is  also  supposed  to  be  plentiful.  In  a  late  ex- 
amination m  .ng  the  river,  at  a  bare  part  of  the  bank, 
where  it  is  exposed  for  two  hundred  feet,  there  was  ob- 
served to  be  in  one  of  the  lower  strata  of  the  rocks,  of 
several  feet  in  width,  a  dark  streak,  much  resembling 
lead  or  coal.  It  may  be  neither  ;  but  the  careful  examin- 
ation along  the  borders  of  the  river,  will  undoubtedly 
lead  to  the  most  interesting  results. 


BIINERAL     SPECIMENS. 


Large  quantities  of  beautiful  specimens  have  often 
been  found,  or  broken  out  of  the  rocks,  around  the  Falls. 
Many  of  them  are  offered  for  sale  to  visiters.     Some  of 


MISCELLANEOUS    NOTICES. 


163 


Tonavvnnda  Village. 


them  are  very  valuable.  Persons  making  collections  will 
find  a  large  variety  in  the  possession  of  Mr.  Jacobs,  on 
Bath  Island. 

Niagara  Falls  has  also  become  a  mart  for  Indian  curi- 
osities. Of  tho  same  gentleman  may  be  obtained  moc- 
cassins,  worked  with  beads  and  porcupine  quills.  Indian 
work  pockets,  needle  cases,  war  clubs,  bark  canoes, 
maple  sugar  in  fimcy  boxes  ornamented  with  quills,  &c. 


T  O  N  A  W  A  N  D  A      VILLAGE. 

This  is  half  way  between  Buffalo  and  Niagara  Falls, 
being  distant  from  each  of  those  places  11  miles.  It  lies 
by  the  side  of  the  Niagara  river,  and  the  Tonawanda 
creek  and  Eric  canal  pnsses  through  it.  The  navigation 
of  th<3  canal  is  by  a  lock  connected  with  the  river,  and  pas- 
sengers for  the  Falls,  disembark  from  the  boats  at  this 
place.  The  village  possesses  many  advantages  for  busi- 
ness operations  ;  and  some  trade  with  the  upper  lake  is 
carried  on  direct  by  vessels  navigating  the  river  and  lake. 
This  trade  is  destined  to  increase.  A  ferry-boat  plies 
between  Tonawanda  and  Whitv^haven,  on  Grand  Island, 
the  two  villages  lying  opposite  each  other. 

A  bank,  under  the  New  York  ])anking  law,  has  lately 
been  established,  which  will  increase  the  business  facili- 
ties of  the  enterprising  inhabitants. 


JOHN    DOWNING    AND     THE     WHIRLPOOL. 

"lie  lives!  from  out  tlic  whirlpool's  (Jeptlid, 
From  out  a  vvat'ry  grave  !  " 

This  is  not  the  celebrated  Jack  Downing,  but  may  be 
a  remote  relative  of  the  family  ;  however,  he  performed 


■.■^.r:^. 


■^rr    'l^M.W'ir* 


164 


MISCELLANEOUS   NOTICES. 


John  Downing  and  the  AVhirlpooI. 


a  voyage  which  the  navigator  of  the  Two  Follies  would 
hardly  attempt.  In  1811,  Mr.  Downing,  with  others, 
was  cutting  cedar  pos!^;  at  the  "VVhirliJOol.  on  the  British 
side,  for  palisades  at  Fort  George.  They  M^ero  made  in- 
to small  rafts,  and  set  adrift  where  th.:  current  passes  out 
from  the  Whirlpool,  and  were  afterwards  picked  up  in 
the  river  between  Quccnston  and  the  '^Fort.  While  he 
was  fixing  something  on  one  of  the  rafts,  the  end  lying 
on  the  shore,  it  slipped  into  the  waicr,  and  before  hi& 
companions  could  help  him,  ho  was  carried  out  of  their 
reach.  Slowly  the  raft  receded  from  the  shore,  pnssing 
up  the  stream.  It  passed  round  in  the  Whirlpool  and 
eddies,  for  nearly  half  a  day,  but  was  not  drawn  into  the 
principal  vortex.  At  length,  the  raft  was  thrown  so 
near  the  shore,  that  his  companions  reached  out  to  him 
a  long  polo,  on  which  Mr.  D.  seized,  and  escaped  front 
his  perilous  situation. 


AN     APALLING     DISASTER 


.  i 


i 


*'  I  consider  these  rocks  my  enemies." 

Many  narrow  escapes,  and  many  sad  and  serious  ac- 
cidents have  occurred  around  the  P'alls  ;  but  at  length  it 
has  become  the  painful  duty  of  the  annalist  to  record  an 
incidein  of  a  new  and  fatal  character.  Since  the  first 
discovery  of  these  profoundly  interesting  yet  fearful 
scenes,  visiters  have  with  impunity  rambled  above  and 
beneath  the  overhanging  rocks  ;  and  though  the  danger 
was  evident  to  the  eye,  no  accident  had  happened,  no 
event  had  taken  place  to  warn  them  of  the  hnzard  to 
which  they  were  exposed. 


MISCELLANEOUS    NOTICES. 


165 


Death  of  Dr.  Hungerford. 


About  10  o'clock  in  the  forenoon  of  the  27th  of  May, 
1839,  Doctor  Hungerford,  of  Troy,  N,  Y.  with  Mr. 
Nicle,  of  Columbus,  O.  and  Mr.  Lindsey,  their  guide, 
were  viewing  the  river  and  Falls,  near  Ingraham's  Cave, 
below  the  point  of  Iris  Island.  The  guide,  having  hold 
of  the  arm  of  Doctor  Hungerford,  and  standing  between 
him  and  Mr.  Nide,  concluded  that  all  had  been  seen  at 
that  point  interesting  to  the  travellers,  and  remt...i.ed 
that  they  would  now  go  to  another  place.  At  that  in- 
stant, he  saw  the  air  filled  with  earth  and  falling  stones  : 
all  endeavored  to  spring  aside.  Doctor  Hungerford  fell. 
Mr.  Lindaey  immediately  raised  him,  and,  with  the  as- 
sistance of  Mr.  Nide,  bore  him  to  a  more  secure  place. 
They  were  not  at  first  aware  of  the  fatal  injury  that  he 
had  received.  The  rocks  had  struck  him  on  the  back  of 
the  head,  and  on  his  neck  and  shoulders.  He  breathed 
but  a  few  times,  and  expired  without  a  groan  or  the  least 
convulsive  motion.  Mr.  Lindsey,  too,  received  several 
severe  contusions,  and  had  his  coat  and  pantaloons  torn, 
but  did  not  notice  his  own  bruises  until  some  time  after. 

About  half  an  hour  before,  the  party  had  been  stand- 
ing on  the  edge  of  the  bank  immediately  above  the  spot 
where  Doctor  Hungerford  met  his  death.  While  there, 
he  was  engaged  in  taking  notes  of  the  scene  in  his  me- 
morandum book  ;  and,  what  is  very  singular,  he  there 
wrote,  and  they  were  the  last  words  he  ever  wrote, — 
*  *  /  consider  these  rocJcs  my  enemies. ' ' 

It  is  nc  t  wonderful  that  this  sad  accident  should  have 
happened  ;  but  centuries  may  roll  away,  and  thousands 
and  tens  of  thousands  of  individuals  pass  and  repass  in 
safety,  as  they  have  done,  before  such  another  melan- 
choly disaster  again  is  witnessed. 


166 


MISCELLANEOUS   NOTICES. 


Chronological  Table. 


CHRONOLOGICAL     TABLE. 


1078. 
1679. 

1711. 
1712. 

1742. 
1759. 

1770. 

1703. 
1790. 


1804. 
1805. 


1810. 
ISil. 

1812. 
IS  13. 


1814. 
1817. 
1918. 


1820. 
1^22. 

1.825. 


First  authentic  notice  of  the  Falls. 

T'ley  were  visited  by  Father  Hennepin, 

Stockade  Fort  built  !>y  l)e  la  Sidle,  on  the  present  site  of 
Fort  Nia'jara. 

Earliest  (bite  found  on  the  rocks  .it  the  Fall?. 

A  part  of  The  Tusearora  tribe  of  Indians  immigrated  from 
Cur  oil  n  a. 

The  earliest  da^e  found  on  the  trees  on  Iris  Island. 

battle  of  the  Devil's  Hole.  Fort  Niagara  taken  from  the 
French.     French  Vessels  burnt  at  Burnt  Ship  Creek. 

Goats  placed  on  Iris  Island,  by  3Ir.  Ste(bn;in,  an  English- 
man. 

A  shock  of  an  earthqujikc  at  Xijigara  Fiills. 

Fort  Niajrara  delivered  uj)  to  the  Aujericans.  The  British 
inhabitants  nu)ve  to  Canada.  At  this  time,  there  was 
but  one  white  family,  exclusive  of  those  at  Fort  Niagara 
and  Sciilosser,  in  the  territory  that  now  forms  the  coun- 
ty of  Niagiira. 

Tlie  village  of  Lewiston  surveyed  out. 

The  mile  reserve,  a  strip  of  one  mile  nlong  the  Niagara 
river,  fr(uu  Fort  Nifigarato  Jiisiralo,  sold  by  the  Sta.e  of 
New  York,  at  public  sale,  at  Alb.'iny.  Augustus  Porter, 
Esq.  settles  nejtr  the  Falls,  and  lays  '^"t  Manchester, 
afterwards  Niagara  Falls  village. 

Mr.  Valentine  and  another  person  go  over  the  Falls. 

John  Downing  drifts  out  in  the  Whirlpool,  and  gets  out 
safe. 

October  13.  Battle  of  Queenston. 

Mav  27.  Battle  of  Fort  Georire. 

June    5.  Battle  of  Stony  Creek. 

June  24.  Battle  of  Beaver  Dams. 

Dec.  19.  The  British  take  Fort  Niagara  by  surprise,  burn 
all  the  frontier  villages,  and  lay  waste  and  depopulate 
the  country. 

July  '?.  Battle  of  Cbippewa. 

July  25.  Batile  of  Luudv's  Lane. 

First  bridge  built  to  Iris  Island,  and  was  the  next  winter 
carried  off  bv  the  ice. 

The  second  bridge  to  the  Island,  built  lower  down  than  the 
first.  A  portion  of  Table  Rock  falls,  with  much  noise. 
Gen.  P.  AVHiitney  builds  the  first  stairs  down  the  bank, 
and  establishes  the  first  ferry 

Two  men,  in  a  scow,  go  over  the  Falls. 

Two  men,  from  Grand  Island,  go  over  the  Falls. 

William  Chambers  and  another  man,  in  a  canoe,  go  over 
the  Falls.  Cave  discovered  by  Mr.  Catlin,  which  Uear» 
jjiis  name. 


MISCELLANEOUS   NOTICES. 


167 


Tables  of  Distances. 


18*27.  A  vessel,  calle^l  the  Michigan,  with  animals  on  bor.rd,  is 

sent  over  tlie  Falls. 
1828.  Another  portion  of  Ta1)lc  Rock  fa'ls ;    ami  in  the  same 

year,  several  large  pieces  of  the  rock  composing  the 

Horse  Shoe  Fall. 
1929.  The  Biddle  staircase  built.    The  schooner  Superior  sent 

over  the  Falls.     Sam.  Pat  h  jun)ps  twice  from   a  ]»lat- 

forni  erected  below  the  bank.    Another  part  of  Table 

Rock  fallH. 
lr*31.  June  JO.  Francis  Abbott  drowned  while  baihinj?. 
1832.  A  canal  lioat  drifts  across  the  river.      Cholera  prevailrj 

tliroiigli  the  countrv;  no  cases  tit  Niagara  FjiHs  villa<ie. 
1831.  July  l.'n  Mr.  Berry  Il'ill  While  and  Mr.  George  Sims  first 

enter  Iiijrrahjim's  Cave. 
183.J.  May  ll>.  A  nian  went  over  the  Falls. 
183U.  Great  speculation  in  real  estJite.    Two  men,  in  a  skiff,  go 

over   the  Frills.     Cars  first  commence  running  on  the 

Bufialo  and    Niagara  Falls  rail-road.    A'e.vander  goes 

o\er  the  bank. 
1837.  Cars  commence  running  on  theLockport  and  Niagara  Falls 

and  Lcwiston  rail-roads.    Dec.  2i).  Steam-boat  Caroline 

cut  out  from  Schlosser,  and  burnt. 
1839.  Dec.  11.  (.^apt.  Usher,  at  Street's  l*oint,  assassinated. 
1530.  Feb.  19.  PaviMon  Hotel  burnt.      May  27.  Dp.  Hungerford, 

of  Troy,  killed  near  Ingraham's  Cave,  by  some  falling 

rocks,  whilst  viewing  the  Falls. 


i agar a 
a  e  of 


TABLES     OF     DISTANCES. 


burn 
)pulate 


From  the  C.itaract  Hotel  and  Eagle  Tavern  to  the  top 

of  the  bank  at  the  ferry       _       _       -       _    100  rods. 

Thence  to  the  water      ---.---23" 

The  river,  at  the  ferry,  is  in  width      -        -        -        -       56    " 

From  the  water's  edge  to  the  top  of  the  bank,  in  Canada,  96    '• 

Thence  to  the  Clifton  House       -        -        -        -        -       10    " 

"      to  the  Pavilion  -       - 2GG    " 


winter 

mn  the 
noise, 
bank, 


to  over 
bears 


DISTANCES  FR03I  NIAGARA  FALLS,  U.  S. 


To 


Point  View ^m. 

Whirlpool    3 

Tuscarora    8 

Five  ;Mile  Meadow  . .  8 

Fort  Niagara 14 

Scblosser 2 

Tonawanda     .....  .11 


To  Mineral  Springs.  .  .  .  2iii. 

Devil's  Hole yi 

Lewiston 7 

Youngstown 13 

liockport,  pr  rail-road,24 

Pekin     13 

Buffalo 22 


108 


MISCELLANEOUS   NOTICES. 


I 


II 


Distances. — Advertisements. 


DISTANCES  FROM  NIAGARA  FALLS,  CANADA. 


To  Burn  ill  sr  Spring   ...  J  m. 
Ciiippcwii  vilJuf^e.  .  .     2 

Deep  Cut,  W.  Canal,  8 

S\  CJitliCfine's.  ...  12 

Wate'-loo    14 

Fort  Erie    10 


To  Druniniondvillc    ...     ^  m. 

Whirlpool 4 

Stamford     4 

St.  David's 0 

Queenston 8 

Fort  Cieorgc 14 


GENERAL  DISTANCES  FR03I  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


milett 

To  Toronto 44 

Hamil'On     40 

Oswcifo 140 

Glean  Point 98 

Cleveland 212 

Pittsl)uror|i 232 

Detroit. 332 

(;recn  Bay 820 

Cliicnfio 1234 

Cin«.'iiinati 4G8 

Philadelphia,  viaAlb.  538 


miles 

To  Rochester SO 

Albany     300 

Kingston,  U.  C.    ...  200 

Montreal     388 

Quebec    CMS 

New  York MO 

Mackinaw 051 

Hault  St.  Rlrrie    .  .  .  720 
Chillieotiie,  Oiiio  .  .  .  403 

Columbus 850 

Washinyton 703 


A  D  V  E  R  T  I  S  E  i^I  E  N  T  S . 

Cataract  Hotel,  P.  Whitney,      ) 

Eagle  Tavern,  T.  W.  Fanning,  >  Village  of  Niagara  Falls,  U.  S. 

Hule:t's  Hotel,  W.  E.  Hulett,    > 

Clifion  House,  M.  Crysler,  Clifton,  Upper  Canada. 
Steam  Boat  Hotel,  Mr.  Owen,  Chippewa,    do. 
L'jiion  Hotel,  Mr.  Slater,  do  do. 

Winding  Stairs  at  Table  Rock,  Mr.  J.  Starkey. 

FERRYMEN, 

S.  L.  W^are,  American  side. 
J.  Shultersburgh,  Canada. 

GUIDES  TO  THE  FALLS, 

.  UaviTSey:'  }  ^illoge  «f  Niagar.  Palls,  U.  S. 

Ansel  B.  Jacobs,  Baths,  Specimens,  and  Indian  Curiosities, 

Bath  Island. 

Museum  of  Natural  Curiosities,  Specimens,  and  Indian 

Curiosities,  T.  Barnett,  between  Table  Rock 

and  Clifton  House,  Canada. 


Press  of  Thomas  ^  Co.  165  Main  street,  JBuJj'alo. 


Pa 


# 


sho 


^  m. 

4 

4 

0 

8 
14 


ERRATA. 


Page  18, 
**    23, 


,  651 
,  7-29 
.  403 
.  850 


*  25, 

*  30, 

*  42, 
'*    90, 

95, 

*  96, 
'*  128, 
'*  147, 

*  153, 
'*168, 

should  be 


(( 
li 

n 
n 
It 
n 


line  27,  for  carSf  read  cars. 

13,  for  tremendous  emotion^   read  tremu- 
lous m4)tion, 
24,  for  in,  read  it, 
9,  for  mu2  read  iced. 
9    forfeetf  read  ro<f5. 
2c^  .;  f  mt£5f ,  read  m^oves, 
I,  for  tAe96  are  read  there, 
11,  for  smith,  read  smootfi. 
20,  for  <^6,  read  t^ree. 
7,  in  omitted. 
31,  for  beerif  read  became. 
Mr.  Lindsay,  the  guide's  name,  is  wrong  ;  it 
Edtoin  G,  Lindsey, 


[jin 


